wheelman Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 I was able to remove some locking lugs I didn't have the key for. I've been fighting with these lugs on and off for months now. I tried grinding the side so I could get a wrench on them, vise grips, pipe wrenches, hammering on a socket and drilling holes in the center to insert screws to grab hold of, nothing worked. I had given up on these things and decided I would eventually tow the car to a tire store to have them removed. Right around christmas time a friend of mine came over a brought a mechanic friend and he suggested using my air chisel to remove them. I just had a chance to try it tonight. So I put in V shaped hammer bit and placed one of the points into part of the key shape and then aimed the chisel in the direction of rotation to remove the bolt. After a minute or two of pounding the bolts turned and I was able to remove them. So if any of you have locking lugs and no key try using an air chisel to get them started then grab with pliers or your fingers to finish. I hope this helps someone other than me. Ken W. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nic-Rebel450CA Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 Doing it that way, doesnt the lug nut come loose by screwing up the threads? I think I would try to find another way, I believe many tow companies have a set of relatively universal keys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Drewz Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 I just went out and bought a lock removing tool kit from Mac tools. I used to buy and sell cars and had alot of missing locks. Works top notch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody 82 ZXT Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 Thanks for the idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBC_400 Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 or just get a big pipe wrench and stand on it. always works at the junk yard for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240jz Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 I work in a tire store so i've doen this a few (hundred) times. An air chisle is always the last resort. The best way is with a kit or to find a socket that is close to fitting. Hammer on the socket and slowly take it off with a impact gun. You may crack your socket but it works about 90 % of the time. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Drewz Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 Matt alot of the newer cars have weaker threads so the hammering can stretch them near the point of failure. If those threads failed and the tire came off and there was injury or, unfortunately, a death that practice would be done with. Spend the small amount it costs and buy the tools. Just my suggestion. It saves time as well. It is too slick if you have ever used one. And they are warrantied to boot?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted February 6, 2004 Author Share Posted February 6, 2004 Maybe I jumped the gun on doing this. The car is a 1973 240Z so it's not exactly new. I had reached a frustration level that lead me to say what-the-hey I'm going to try it. The threads look fine on the studs that had the locking lugs so I think everything will be OK. I plan on swapping for disk brakes on the rear anyway so the studs will be replaced at that time. Now I'm having a hard time getting the drums off. They have pretty much welded themselves to the hub. I really need to get a propane torch so I can heat the drums up a little to break them loose. I know these are aluminum so I need to be carefull how hot I get them. Anyway, wish me luck. Ken W. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Drewz Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 I would start with a rotary wire brush of some sort around the center and some penetrating fluid. The alum. drum can take as much heat as that propane torch could throw at it. The center is the bad spot for sticking. I use a deadblow instead of a hammer to hit it from the backside to dislodge it. Don't just hit it in the same spot either, rotate it as you heat and hit it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 I would start with a rotary wire brush of some sort around the center and some penetrating fluid. The alum. drum can take as much heat as that propane torch could throw at it. The center is the bad spot for sticking. I use a deadblow instead of a hammer to hit it from the backside to dislodge it. Don't just hit it in the same spot either, rotate it as you heat and hit it. Ditto! And don't have a heart attack when you hear a gunshot like 'boom/crack' when the rust bond pops! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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