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Brutaly Basic Tech Q


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OK I put the motor in set the balancer to TDC on the compression stroke now how EXACTLY to I drop in the dizzy? Do I back the balancer down 6deg's or do I back the dizzy down? Or do I point the rotor at No#1 and leave the balancer at TDC? Please help I cant wait to start this motor!!!!! Keith

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You dont turn the harmonic balancer to TDC. On the compression stroke-slowly turn the balancer, with a breaker bar & socket, by hand till you reach your BTDC mark you wish to start off with; it appears you have chosen 6 degrees BTDC. So, turn the balancer, by hand, on the compression stroke up to the point where your pointer indicates your 6 degrees BTDC.

 

Then drop your dist. in, ensuring that your rotor is pointing to your #1 plug wire, prime the carb-and crank it over.

 

If you are using a dist. w/a vacuum canister on it-be sure the vacuum canister is pointing toward the passenger door & running parallel w/the firewall; this should give you some wiggle room once for adjustment once your engine fires.

 

Remember-when you are dropping your dist. down-it will seem as if there are two notches; the first is when the dist. gears align themselves to the cam gears & the second will be after the gears mesh. As the gears mesh-the rotor will turn slightly; so try to leave yourself some wiggle room for the rotor turning as well.

 

The first few times I messed w/dist's I always found myself 180 degrees out, until I got good enough where that never happens anymore; so if it doesnt start the first few times after you have primed your carb-then think about turning your rotor 180 degrees...and that monster should come to life.

 

Also, keep the dist. hold down anchor snug-but loose enough you can turn the dist. for adjustment once your engine does fire.

 

Report back to us after it has started. I always associate an engine breathing its first breath as the same sound of Darth Vader-when he breathes; very awesome sound.

 

BTW: did I mention I'm jealous you have a V8 in your Z & I dont have one in mine? ;)

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still an Inliner)

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Guest Anonymous

You can just leave it at TDC and point the rotor to number one (which should be located technically pointing towards number 1 spark plug up front, but you can actually make 1 anywhere you want it as long as you have your wires matching where its pointing). This will get you close enough for fire. Once you get it running and the cam is broke in and you can idle it down (assuming its a non-roller cam which requires this step), you can then unhook the vacuum advance and set your timing with a light. You can try to adjust to 6 degree's, but since you have to time it anyway or at least check it, I don't see the need to do that personally. Just an opinion of course and perhaps its not the book version of how its done, but I've always done it that way. *shrug* :D

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Kevin and Lone thank you both. The motor is all ready broken in ( it was rebuilt by a friend about 2 years back) I bought it from him and dropped it into my RX-7 the Datsun is sitting on her side on my rotisserie waiting for the funds the rx is a side project that I started out of nessecity The rotor motor was blown and I was not gonna spend $2000 on another motor that only makes 175 HP and 132ftlbs! I put less than 2G into the whole conversion and have over 300HP!! I have started the motor and I had the timing off a bit but let me tell you the sound of open headders rumbling through my shop was AWESOME it scared the hell out of the neighbors. Keith

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Guest Anonymous

Thats a cool conversion. I saw a 2nd gen Rx7 in the wrecking yard and was scoping out the room, it looked like it would fit real well in there. I could easily live with a Rxsbc8 ... :D And I agree, theres something about open headers belching out fire and noise that almost gives ya a chubby.. :D

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Guest Anonymous

Very cool. After your post I went to Granny's speed shop to check that stuff out as I remembered they did the swaps. Pretty cool, if I stumbled across a 2nd gen Rx7 that was in good condition it'd be tempting to put my motor and trans in it, I'd have smog issues though I think without going to a later motor. Anyway, if you guys havn't been there before lookup grannys speed shop and check it out, theres quite a few pictures of these swaps including a few GN's and ford swaps. The kits are actually much better looking than our JTR kits for the Z, a bit pricier but it seems fair for what you get.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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OK now I have another question. How far back should I turn the motor? I just pulled six degrees out of the air I do not know what the spec's are on the motor I suspect is mostly stock it has 468642 heads and 4-bolt mains but I have no clue on the cam or pistons. new pix for anybody who wants to see http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/rx7260z/lst?.dir=/383+240z&.view=t Lone check out this site http://www.torquecentral.com/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&forumid=11 Keith

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This is where playing with the idle & tuning the carb kind've merge & cross over into each other.

 

If you have an automatic-then you will want to get your idle as low as you can; then put your trans in drive (with your foot on the brake). Then if your engine stumbles or dies-you either have the idle too low or your carb is improperly tuned.

 

If you are running a standard trans-then you simply want to make sure your idle is high enough to work your power brakes.

 

Idle your engine down-put your trans in drive (if it's an automatic); then if the engine stalls-you will want to idle it back up a bit and begin playing with the carb adjustments.

 

If you are not familiar w/tuning a carb-then you really need to get a few carb books on your specific model.

 

Between going back & forth from dist., auto trans in park and back to the carb for adjustments-you may also have the dist. gear one tooth advanced or retarded; so keep that in mind.

 

You just kind've have to play with it till you get it just right.

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still an Inliner)

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