Thinking about the Stealth Ram.

[Guest Pegasus76]

I have a 350SBC and I am thinking about buying a Stealth Ram intake...What matching performance cam would be best with the intake?

[Mike C]

Man, talk about hitting a bees nest with a stick! It depends. You need to build a matching combination, not just a cam/intake package. Displacement is one consideration, but most importantly is airflow. What kind of cylinder heads do you have? How much compression? How heavy is the car? What is the gearing? Hydraulic flat tappet? Solid flat tappet? Hydraulic roller? Mechanical roller? What are your goals? Making some assumptions (6500 rpm redline, 9.5:1 compression, 2500# car with 3.5-3.7 final drive) Here are my suggestions... Don't go less than 110 deg lobe separation if you are building a street car. Hydraulic flat tappet 230 deg at .050 and .480 lift. Mechnical flat tappet 240 deg at .050 .525 lift. Hydraulic roller 230 deg at .050 .550 lift. Mechanical roller 240 deg at .050 and .570 lift. All of these will have similar power bands, because of the effects of valve lash, ADVERTISED duration of mechanical cams is difficult to compare to hydraulic and not all manfs. measure advertised duration at the same tappet lift. (.001 for GM, .005 for Crane, .006 for Comp if memory serves.)Hydraulic obviously takes some routine maintenance out of the picture. The solid flat tappet will approximate the power output of the hydraulic roller for significantly less money. In my discussions with Comp, they say with equal cam specs, the mechanical roller makes 50hp more than the hydraulic roller which should be 50hp more than the hydraulic flat tappet. These are generalizations obviously, but based on experience.