grumpyvette Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm I think he makes several very good points! change the oil and filter after the first few hours use mineral not synthetic oil durring the rings breaking in. the quality of the hone job is critical on ring seal keep the engine rpms up above 2000 or so Ive always broken my engines in at part throttle 2500-4000rpm (constantly, SLOWLY, reving the engine between those rpm levels) for the first 2-3 hours, or driving the car while accelerating and changing gears frequently, the best results have always been when the engine rpms never are allowed to stay constant,at any rpm level and never, ever allowed to idle, but change and when under varying loads . then I changed the oil and filter and run them fairly hard after that, I have several guys that I know that just run the $%^& out of new engines under the (HEY IF IT BREAKS IT WAS A BAD ENGINE concept) both ways seem to work fine PROVIDED YOU CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTERS WITHIN THE FIRST 3 hours but keep in mind that your not only seating the rings, your seating the bearings, cam lobes and valvetrain too! Id advise keeping the rpms below 5000rpm MAXIMUM for at least the first hour untill all the parts wear in so the heat generated stays at reasonable levels from the new parts lappng together all I would add is that installing a few magnets in the oil pan can prevent an amazing amount of metalic dust from reaching your engines bearings (see the other post on engine magnets) and keep in mind that a large capacity 7-8 qts baffled oil pan and windage screen matched to a high volume oil pump , WORKING AS A SYSTEM can noticeably improve engine life under high stress conditions like the differance between running fine and blowing the engine!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j260z Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 that is an excellent article and actually backs up a lot of information i have received from mechanics and friends. when i bought my new Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS the salesman told me that Subarus break in policy is essentially "drive it like you stole it!!". their reasons being, if something is going to break it will, under warranty, and the engine should be broken in along the same lines as the way it will be normally driven. i've got 33,000 kms on it so far and not a single problem. as far as what oil to use, it makes sense. my buddy with a CBR 600 was told not to use synthetic for the first oil change because the engine simply won't break in, there is not enough friction generated with synthetic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QWKDTSN Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 I've read that article before and the man makes some very good points. The thing that makes me believe is that he's not trying to sell you some miracle product or information - he puts it out there for everyone to use for free. Seems to me that he really does trust the concepts at work. I am planning to give this a go, should i ever buy any new vehicle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest qwikrex Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 I've seen this article, or at least school of thought before. I tend to agree with what's being said, and I broke in my Ford 428 this way. It's been going for about 4000 miles now with no problems, and seems to make plenty of power. It stopped smoking VERY quickly as well. I'd say this method gets my thumbs up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danj Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Grump The article seems to pertain mostly to new engines produced by new car manufacturers. Since most of the HybridZ "new" engines are really custom rebuilds employing a variety of honing procedures, clearances, rings, etc., would you modify the recommended break-in procedure any based on the parts, procedures and methods used by each engine shop? Dan H. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted March 10, 2004 Author Share Posted March 10, 2004 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Grump "would you modify the recommended break-in procedure any based on the parts, procedures and methods used by each engine shop? " well ,I would make sure the oil had both MOLY and E.O.S added and coolant levels were triple checked , the timing and of course al clearances were double checked before attempting to start an engine for the first time, Id prelube untill oil flows from every rocker before starting the engine, I would NEVER think spinning a new engine rebuild to over about 5000rpm or allowing the engine below 1500rpm during that first critical 15-20 minutes with a flat tapper cam, I normally have a water hose running over the radiator and a box fan pushing air thru the radiator and Id sure be glued to the gauges during the first critical minutes and constantly varying the rpm level, checking the timing with a timing light and useing a heat gauge to check exhaust temps,after that Id drive it for a while (2 hours) then change the oil and filter. then swap to synthetic and a new filter and check compression to look for signs of problems the one thing that you want to avoid is endlessly spinning the engine before it starting it the first time on the starter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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