What's a shot 70's LT1 worth?

[Guest timhypo]

Someone in a local trader is selling an early-70's LT1 (yes, the legend) for $550, but it says needs machined and rebuilt. I'm wondering if it's worth it, as I'll have cash on Friday and think that's a pretty awesome motor in stock form and would be perfect for my z. Anyone?

[Mike C]

If it is rebuildable, it is easily worth it. Look for screw in studs and guide plates. If the large valves are factroy installed, the will have unshroud cuts in the chamber. It should also have a steel crank and 4 bolt mains. These engines used the "pink" rods, basically a truck rod that was shot peened and magged, they were marked with a pink paint blaze that may or may not still be there. They also had windage trays and aluminum high rise intake and aluminum finned valve covers. A 1970 model will have dome pistons, while the 71-72 is flat top. They also had mechanical lifter camshafts. Be careful though, in 73 they went to L82 which also has big valves but in an open chamber head, but no longer got the aluminum intake or mechanical camshaft and value will be reduced significantly IMO, but might still be worth $550 if it is comlete.

[Guest timhypo]

Thanks. I think I'll try to buy it next weekend as it says it includes new 11-1 TRW .030 over pistons, new hivol oil pump, and new cam/lifters. It also includes 190 camel-hump heads - I thought they were 202s. I'll look at it though I sure don't know what screw-in studs or guide plates look like. Aren't the crank/rods/pistons supposedly forged?

[Mike C]

All small blocks have forged rods. The LT-1 should have a forged crank as noted above as well as forged pistons. Just be careful as a lot more people seem to have LT-1s for sale than were ever made. Rocker studs. If it is a real LT-1 they have a hex head at the base where it "srews" into the head rather than the standard pressed in stud. It it does not have the big valve/screw in stud heads, it's value is diminished significantly. Screw in studs can be added as can big valves, but seldom do you see the unshrouding cut in the chamber wall unless it was factory. If you had casting numbers and dates you could better ID said motor. Figure a steel crank (wide parting line on the outside of journals vs. the narrow cast parting line) 4 bolt short block is worth $300 or so. So much depends on used stuff whether or not it is rebuildable and if so, how much machining does it need? A block that cleans up at .030 is worth more than one that will take .040 or .060. Same as a crank. One that goes .010/.010 is worth lots more than one that will take .030/.030 although it will still be better than a cast crank IMO.

[jt1]

Mike C is on the money. If it's a standard bore that looks like it will clean up at 30, I'd say it is defintely worth it. Heck, around here a standard 4 bolt block will bring 4-500 bucks.