240z race motor for the street.

[ZTR]

dose anyone have any datsun 240Z race car engines spec.

the L24 motor. i want to build my engine allmost the same way but make it streetable

thank you .

[wigenOut-S30]

I think most that build the L6 for non turbo race applications usually build a 3.0 or 3.1ltr stroker. Norm is running 12's with his stroker but.. he is not normal.. are you wanting to build a road race high revving set up? or just want more power out of your L24?

[rc's240z]

I have a BRE 2.4 race motor. What kind of spec's are you looking for?

compression, cam, pistons what?

 

R

[Guest bastaad525]

Dont think you could run that BRE motor on the street, can you?

 

That's kind of a conflicting desire... street AND race? Full 240 race motors are definately not suitable for the street, I would think. Too high compression, too wild cams, etc.

 

You can do a lot to an N/A L6 to get more power. Increase compression, run a good street cam to move up the powerband, run tripples or good EFI, and most importantly spend money on the best headwork you can afford, and you can get around 200hp to the wheels. Want more than that and overboring and stroking to 3.0-3.1L is about the only way to go. Expensive stuff unless you can do the machine work yourself.

 

Of course you could save yourself a lot of time and money and just drop an '81-83 280zx turbo motor in your Z and get 200hp to the wheels right off the bat just by raising the boost a few psi (exactly what I did). Add an I/C, more fuel and more boost and you're closer to 250rwhp. Hybrid turbo and better fuel management and you can easily push 300+ for still relatively little investment (if you shop around and don't mind using second hand parts).

[rc's240z]

My BRE motor is a race motor, in a race car and will not be run on the street. I was just responding to the question posed.

 

A 12.5:1 compression motor needs race fuel and at $5.00+ per gallon it is not wise to drive it on the street. (other than pulling it off and on the trailer).

[Guest bastaad525]

My BRE motor is a race motor' date=' in a race car and will not be run on the street. I was just responding to the question posed.

 

A 12.5:1 compression motor needs race fuel and at $5.00+ per gallon it is not wise to drive it on the street. (other than pulling it off and on the trailer).[/quote']

 

 

heheh dont get me wrong I wasn't asking that question sarcastically... actually really wasn't sure if you could run the BRE motor on the street or not. Wasn't sure of the differences between say, the BRE motor, or the motor's places like Rebello sell.

[rc's240z]

You really cant run a motor like this on the street. It could be detuned with different pistons, but why!!

 

This motor is designed for a specific purpose. My suggestion is to find a shop that you trust that will build the motor you want. Rebello, Classic Datsun to name a few.

[Guest norm[T12SDSUD]]

Hey I was able to run 13.6 @ 99 mph with a stock 2.4L block with a shaved N42 head.The motor had a 272/282 .450" lift Crane cam and was 10.6:1 CR.It ran fine on 93 octane.

Just make certain you notch the block for the bigger valves or you'll bend a valve.

It's not hard to build and it was very streetable.

 

later,norm

[ZTR]

can I build 3.1 stroker out of the L24 block if so where can I get the parts.

I wanted head, cam, piston .rods,crank,gaskets and stroke and bore spec

I need to know it all.

 

this is going to sound dumb very dumb but I want it to sound like a race car . I want to be able to reach very high rpm, but still be streetable

can yall give me some web site to find part to build my motor like this

 

hell, I dont know just give me some ideas

thank you

[rc's240z]

ZTR,

 

There are particular parts that you will need to build a stroker motor. a 2.4 block is not one of them.

 

3.1 strokers are not your best solution for a high reving motor. I would suggest a 2.9 liter motor as a better option with an offset ground 2.8 crank to get a little more displacement.

 

there are a number of books available, but no too many websites.

 

what is your budget for this motor? a true race motor build up can cost up to $15,000.

 

A really good street motor would be around $5,000.

 

I dont think that you are looking to pay several thousand dollars extra because it sounds cool...

 

Look, I know you want a nice motor, and I know that you are looking for ideas....but there are a few things that you need to think about here:

 

1) what is my budget

2) what kind of performance am I looking for

3) what am i going to use this motor for

4) What type of carbs or FI, etc....

>

>

512) i want my motor to sound like a race car.

 

Let's talk about what you need and your budget and we will keep in mind how to give your motor that "race car" sound.

 

Guys that build the best race motors that i know of:

 

Classic Datsun, Vista California

Rebello Racing, Pacheco California

Sunbelt motors, Florida?

Cobra University, Los Angeles California

 

I hope this helps.

 

Ron

[ZTR]

sorry i don't know much about z-cars but i'm trying to learn, so bear with me

i have $5500 to build this motor i would like to have about 220rwhp or more

if i can build it with the stock 2.4L block i need to be able to use the car as a daily driver but i need it to rule a$$ on the street also. I have been talking to my trusted engine shop he has been looking for parts with little luck so i guest i just need to know where i can find parts . would the holley 4 barrel conversion be a good choice for a carb, or what do yall think would be good .

 

norm[T12SDSUD] engine sounds like it would be a good build for me

so norm what did you use to build your motor.

 

thanks for all yalls help i hope to start building my motor soon i find the parts.

[Guest bastaad525]

]Hey I was able to run 13.6 @ 99 mph with a stock 2.4L block with a shaved N42 head.The motor had a 272/282 .450" lift Crane cam and was 10.6:1 CR.It ran fine on 93 octane.

Just make certain you notch the block for the bigger valves or you'll bend a valve.

It's not hard to build and it was very streetable.

 

later' date='norm[/quote']

 

But why bother? You had a lot of work in yours (I'm talking relative to the amount of work it takes to swap in a turbo motor), even running that timeslip, and a lot more in it now running the 12's you run now. And it's been said time and again... you seem to be the exception to the rule... not many others out there running those kinds of times on those kinds of setups. So... why bother? When you can put a turbo motor in cheaper and easier. And yeah Norm I know you did yours cheap if someone can do the work themselves as you did, then of course it's a different thing, but most people can't (or shouldn't!). Bottom line, either way it's a lot of work getting that kind of power out of an N/A motor, whereas just dropping a turbo motor in, and turning up the boost will easily get you into the high 13's in a 240, STOCK, no cam, no headwork, dont even need the I/C at that point, though some extra fuel via a better pump and adjustable fuel pressure regulator would help (I was using neither and put 200hp to the wheels, enough to take my 2320lb 240 to a mid-high 13 second 1/4 easily).

 

Whereas when I built my N/A motor, ovebored to 2.9L, minor headwork, mild cam, twin SU's, headers, mandrel bent exhaust, freeflow everything, light flywheel, ACT clutch, 5 spd an 3.9 gear was only good for 170hp and a high 14.

 

On top of that, I had more money invested in my N/A motor than in my turbo swap.

 

ZTR - Norm pretty much built his motor himself, he did all the headwork himself, put the block together himself. 220rwhp out of an N/A L6 is asking a lot, headwork and a cam would be a must... whereas it's not even breaking a sweat with a STOCK turbo motor. If you shop around, you can get that from a turbo swap easy and have a most of that $5500 left over. Go balls out with the money and you can end up with an intercooled, T3/O4 beast easily putting out more than 300hp. Or you can spend just about the whole stack at a place like Rebello and get yourself a stroker motor, or build one yourself, spend weeks with a dremel and some sandpaper hogging out the head like Norm did, and cross your fingers You may or may not be able to get the results that Norm did. But, just going on the knowledge of how many people have succesfully hit Norms level of performance with the same amount of work, I wouldn't risk betting any money on it....

 

Having tried both routes, I know which one I'd do if I had to choose again....

[rc's240z]

I dont totaly agree with bastaad...

 

A 2.8 flat top block and a modified P-90 head with triple Mikuni or weber carbs (44's or 45's),cam, lightened flywheel and header would be a nice buildup for what you are asking for. $5500 would get you this very nice, complete and new motor that would be reliable on the street and really quick when you wanted to go for it.

 

While your at it look for an overdrive 5spd zx transmission and 411 R-200 or R-180 to round out your drivetrain.

 

I would suggest calling around to a company that has experience with a full buildup otherwise your engine builder is going to be learning on your motor and you will not get the most out of your setup.

 

A turbo swap is involved and with used equipment there are some variables that could cause you major grief. Starting with a bad motor or bad turbo.

 

Ultimately a turbo solution could be faster, but you will sacrifice reliability and durability....

 

Again, it depends on what you want.

[rc's240z]

One last note. All your HP gains will be from your displacement and headwork. Contact a reputable party to do the headwork you need to get the HP your looking for.

 

Slover in Southern California is a good choice...

[MrWOT]

Just going to add in my $0.02 here....

 

ZTR,

Since you seem to want this car to be a daily driver and be able to dominate on the streets, I assume you are talking about dominating in a straight line High revving race engines are really only better then turbo motors in one respect, high rpms allows for better entry and exit on turns, due to the lag turbos develop however slight it may be. If you ask most F1 engineers they will almost unanamously agree that on a circuit a turbocharged car requires about 20-25% more horsepower to keep up with a naturally aspirated all other things being equal. But as cool as it may sound, unless you plan on using a high revving engine for the purpose of something like road racing, turbocharging is probably the way you would want to go, a turbo engine for the street will also most likely get better economy (unless you keep your foot in it all the time ) and with a budget of $5500 you could build a mean turbo plant. But by all means, if you love to corner fast go for the high revs, if you just want a street beast, go turbo. Either way.... Have fun with it

[Guest bastaad525]

MrWOT hits on a nother point I hadn't even gotten into. He's absolutely right, that to build a high hp N/A motor, means you're gonna be developing power in the higher revs. I drove a friends 3.0L with triples and a hot cam, and let me tell you it felt like a slug up to about 4000rpm, then it really started screaming. I say felt like a slug, compared to my N/A motor, which started making power much earlier in the rev range, but of course didn't make as much hp and wasn't much use over 5500rpm. To me, high HP N/A motors actually aren't that much different than turbo motors, because you have to keep them on the boil to get the most out of them... road course or whatever... let them drop too low and you'll be out of the powerband and struggling to get moving. The difference is that a turbo motor is 'on the boil' at a much lower RPM than high flowing high revving N/A motors. But yeah no matter what you wont get the kind of instant power-throttle response out of a turbo motor as you will out of an N/A. What you WILL get out of the turbo, is much more torque much lower in the rev range. A stock T3 spools very fast and comes on early, as long as you dont choke it with a restrictive exhaust or whatever. On the dyno I'm making 220 ft lbs of torque at 2400rpm.

 

I agree with rc240 that you COULD definately build a great, powerful N/A motor for $5500... but again, why bother? You can end up with a far more streetable, far more economic, far more powerful turbo motor if you spent the same amount.

 

I WILL agree wholeheartedly with one thing, because it has been my PERSONAL experience... if you are buying a used turbo motor it can be a game of russian roulette. I was one of the unfortunate ones, to tell the truth, with lots of major problems popping up after my swap. However, most guys who've done the swap haven't had nearly as many problems as me.

 

But for $5500, you could easily have enough to rebuild the motor right from the get go, taking care of that possibility from the start, and STILL have enough money for a new T3/O4 turbo, good intercooler, fuel management, etc. and STILL end up with more power than a comparably priced N/A buildup. Even with all the problems I've had with my turbo swap (and again I am much more the exception than the standard) I still have less invested than when I built my N/A high compression motor.

[Guest norm[T12SDSUD]]

I have to agree with bastaad.

Go Turbo.

Lot's of guys running mid 12's with Turbo's.

Only a handful running 12's with a N/A engine.

 

 

Later,norm

[johnc]

ZTR,

 

Here's the best advice anyone can give you since you're new to Zs: Put your $5,500 in a 3 month certificate of deposit and spend that time researching. Use the search function on this site extensively, buy the "How to Hot Rod..." Nissan engine book, and talke with Dave Rebello at Rebello and Jim Thompson or Chet Whittle at Sunbelt.

 

Good luck!

[Guest FinalRights]

Get a Ka24de and turbo it.

[Guest bastaad525]

ka24de bleh

 

Well, lord knows with all these guys swapping their stock 240sx motors out for SR20DET motors, Ka24's should be extremely cheap and plentiful.