Jump to content
HybridZ

Need help with no start, after tune up and rail change


EZ-E

Recommended Posts

OK Heres whats happening, bought a fuel rail a while back, then I got a 240SX throttle body, then I bought myself a fuel pressure regulator.

 

Well the other day, I put the new fuel rail on, at the same time I put in new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I did use NGK plugs but a step colder, BPR7ES11. Car wouldnt start.

 

Checked and rechecked plug wires to make sure they were in the right order. All is well. Found out bad running was from dirt in the chopper wheel on the CAS.

 

Cleaned that and car ran well at idle that is. Took car out for a ride and starts chugging and bucking, like it has a timing issue.

 

Plugs are still good, a little to dark then what they should be but still good, Checked timing, timing was good.

 

Replaced the CHTS, because I had a spare new one, put on the aforementioned parts, AFM was 2 teeth to the rich, returned to stock position, fuel regualtor at stock pressure.

 

When the car is cold idles fine runs fine, once the car is up to temperature, idle gets bad, thats when it seems to go out of time, or lope and chug when driving.

 

The air fuel gauge goes wild as well.

 

Now I did get one or two backfires threw the AFM, I havent tested it yet, but I cant believe as I was driving the car that morning and it ran well that just doing what little I did would result in the car not running.

 

HELLLLLLLLLP!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Found something new today, Ill order another one tommorow. When I pulled the plug to the CHTS, the car ran perfectly well for about 30seconds- 2 minutes, till going back to the garbage running.

 

Also once out and it was running well, if I replugged the CHTS back in, it would run like crap again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know I know Im a bad Z car owner :lol: Today while I was able to use a multimeter I found also that the CHTS was reading colder then what the engine temperature actually was.

 

Hmm could be the reason for rich running.

 

Hopefully this fixes the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a similar problem everyone seemd to blame the afm connectors or boost leaks, these were not my problems, turned out to be as manifold pressure rose and the fuel demand got higher the pump cut out, replaced the pump problem solved, just something to check for, I am gonna add a fuel pressure guage inside the cab for any future diagnostics

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...