Guest 305240 Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 While looking at summit's web site, particulary for Ford block hugger headers, I came across these two brands. Hedman HED 88420, and Hooker HOK 6000. Any pros and cons on these two headers? I know almost everything has been tried at one time or another, but it sure gets tiresome looking in the search dept. You can come up with a gazillion topics just because it contains a certain word. Thanks all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 You can come up with a gazillion topics just because it contains a certain word. Thanks all. That's the very reason why we included the item in the site guidelines page that requests that the topic subject line is very specific. It make the serch function a lot more useable. I know what you mean about getting pages of search hits....... Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8dream Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 I used the Hookers and had to take a wedge shaped piece from the inside of each bend where the tubes come off the cylinder head. When they were rewelded and ground smooth, they look perfect and there are no kinks or other gross visual clues. They would not clear the "frame" rail on the passenger side or the steering shaft on the driver side without this bit of surgery. For reference, my stock 5.0 harmonic damper is about 3/8" above, and directly over, the steering rack. The engine is slightly offset towards the passenger side, a la JTR manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 Thanks v8dream. I'm not that good at the welding thing, but can do enough to get by. However, I do know a great fabracator. This guy can fab about anything, and he's in our car club. In the description of the headers, it did say that they stuck out about 3" from the block. The wedge makes sence. How big was the big portion of the wedge you cut out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jumbo240ez Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 I used the Hooker block huggers as well. Did the same mod but only to clear the steering shaft. I'm contemplating taking the header to Sanderson (they're local) and have them recreate it with a gentler bend off the #6 cylinder (mine's kinda sharp). I did have to grind some off the passenger side header collector flange to clear the starter (A mini would have worked without grinding but wasn't in my budget) and to clear the T/C mount. jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8dream Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 Sorry for the silence. I posted above and left town for the holiday weekend. While I never measured the exact amount that the header flanges moved inward toward the block, I can say that it was a good inch on the passenger side and a bit less on the drivers side. I did end up using a mini starter for the same clearance reasons Jon mentioned. I bought a remanufactured unit specified for a late model T-Bird with V8. Much cheaper than Ford Motorsport, and it really opens up the clearance between the nose of the starter and the header flange. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 Thanks for the info guys. I really appreciate it. I'm going over everything in my mind, trying to get my ducks all in a row. Hopefully they won't scatter to the 4 winds. I want to be able to start work on it and not stop until it's done. One good thing about being retired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jumbo240ez Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 305240, I worked on mine nights and weekends and finished it (is it ever finished?) in 2 1/2--3 months. Dang if I wasn't waiting for some delivery every day. Best of luck. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 I had to replace my whole front rad support. I took the one out of the 280 and am going to weld it in. Part of the frame horns were cut off the 240 when I got it. No matter. Body work I can do easy enough. I was thinking of fitting the motor and tranny before I weld it back in. Probably be easier poking it in and out for the trial fits. I don't think it will bend the frame (such as it is) just trial fitting. At least I hope it won't. The body is getting stripped bare. It's almost there now. The underside is getting painted the same color as the outside. Mustang orange. This will be built strictly old school. No high tech or high dollar parts or items. I've wired a few street rods in my day, so all the wiring will be getting ripped out and new going in. relays for almost everything. I'll keep a running list of what I use as well as cost, and post as I go. First I have to get my sony fixed so it will take a good pic again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt_Zorro Posted July 13, 2004 Share Posted July 13, 2004 I used a cheap "generic" set of block huggers that I got from Southern Rods and didn't have to do any cutting on them at all. My buddy tried them in his ZX and had to modify them for it. Used the stock starter also, but it's close. Did my own Motor and trans mounts, so your milage may vary.. Adios Amigos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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