Jumbo240ez

Oh yeah... I did buy it for her... And of course she WANTED it modified. In that case SHE probably won't want to sell HER rifle. But you can get all the stuff pretty cheap. I think I bought the mags from a place off Almaden Rd in SJ. The flash sup, er compensator, was purchased online. You'll like the sks either way... Jon

Dan, I only have experience with camber plates, but it was some thing like .5" or so per degree of change. jon

Hey Alex I have the yugo sks and it's a nice rifle. Pretty accurate 'til I put 60 rounds through it. When it gets hot it shoots 10" hi at 100 yds. Let it cool down and it's okay again. I'm not into guns as much anymore but when I was I outfitted my sks with detachable mags and scope/bipod, composite stock with cheek piece and muzzle compensator. I think I bought the "antique" for $185.00 and it was in great condition. All in all it's a nice rifle. Jon

Hey Dan that "Battle version" kit looks pretty simple... just cut and weld. Neat! Save time, money, stress for $185.00. Anyone here install it? jon

Hey Aux, looks good! Probably saved you around 10# too! Nice job! jon

hahaha, I need this today... I've been too busy for too long. Thanks Aux.

Yea, he could show-up with a converted SKS... funny though.

hahahahhahaha! Do it, do it, do it! Just don't mess-up his real one. And hope he has a sense of humor.

I hear ya... I think the hinge is to allow for changes in camber throughout the arc and keeps the pointer against the board? Though it may be a layer of complexity that is unnecessary.

Looking great Aux! Decided to keep the wood mounts afterall huh? Just kidding. Nice work dude!

Hey guys, for those who need pictures (like me) I scanned the pages describing a Bumpsteer gauge and posted them in a folder here. http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jumbo30@sbcglobal.net/ It sounds similar to jmortensen's description. Could someone look at it and see if I'm spreading bad info? The way he (the author) makes adjustments is different but I believe the concept is the same. You just want an accurate way to measure toe-in/out through the range of motion your LCA travels. Regards. And thanks again for sharing your experiences and advice. Jon

ArizonaZcar, nice looking stuff. Any idea how much the r200 version weighs? Thanks. Jon

305240, I worked on mine nights and weekends and finished it (is it ever finished?) in 2 1/2--3 months. Dang if I wasn't waiting for some delivery every day. Best of luck. Jon

Oh yea, Aux I know you told me so....

Thanks for the replys. Just to establish a baseline, my only suspension mods are coilovers, shocks and camber plates. jmortensen, there is a turn at SP similar to what you described at BW. There's a dip before turn 2 is at the top of a hill. It's RH turn that's off camber as well. I'm almost the top of third after a downshift but bleed off speed quickly (uphill,braking, etc.) I didn't feel any twitchiness through there. BUT at the (almost) bottom of turn 6 I'd hit a spot that would "Twitch" quick and HARD. Not enough to throw me off line but it sure woke you up! I reviewed some tape and I think it was a DIP. So now I guess "droop" is something I should think about as well? Or was it the bump after the dip...? Side note: That was last Oct-Nov. I was there this May and though my set-up was different (stiffer), I didn't feel the "Twitch" in that section of track. I wonder if it was repaved or fixed? Anyway, it looks like it's worthwhile to invest the time to check both and adjust accordingly. (Damn, here I am getting sucked further into this track stuff... next thing you know I'll be gutting the car, buying scales...!) Has anyone seen the jig in Competition Suspension by Alan Stan-something? It looks like it would work, but I really don't know too much about the author. Guess I'll google him. Thanks again guys.

...or a can of vht, rated to 1200.

I used the Hooker block huggers as well. Did the same mod but only to clear the steering shaft. I'm contemplating taking the header to Sanderson (they're local) and have them recreate it with a gentler bend off the #6 cylinder (mine's kinda sharp). I did have to grind some off the passenger side header collector flange to clear the starter (A mini would have worked without grinding but wasn't in my budget) and to clear the T/C mount. jon

Back when I did my swap I didn't move the inner front LCA pivot point up. It's come time to replace bushings and so I 'm considering the mod. I may have experienced "Bumpsteer" on the street, I know I've experienced "tramlining"... but at an open track event (which is 95% of the car's mileage) I never notice any of those phenomenon that I can tell anyway. It seems to make sense that if it improves steering geometry under bump it's a good thing. Are there any telltale signs that this mod is necessary? Has anyone performed this mod and noticed an improvement you'd like to share? Thanks. Jon

triple post

Double post

If you can get a C-6 go for it. I ran a C-4 in my 67 mustang (back in '82)and though it held up for a while I did break it. It held up for 4 broken 8" rear ends, then it gave up. Put in a toploader and been interested in road racing ever since. I miss that car... j

congrats

Hey Dan! Congrats! I have to go pick-up a copy!

Hey that's cool! Love the way the exhaust lays out. Are you planning to "blend" the bottom of the rear piece with the quarter panel? It looks nice and clean, if it were me, I would keep the rear the way it is and not put a gas filler there. Nice job!

hey Aux, how's this project going?