660Z Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I would like an opinion on an alternitive to a concrete floor. But first let me give you some background as to why. I built a polebarn garage 24x26 last year with the intention to install a concrete floor at a later date when the gravel had time to settle. The garage is intended for working on my cars and had planned on installing a lift. My problem, last year we had alot of rain through out the year and this year seems to be the same. My yard has a natural spring and needless to say I have a high water table. And though I don`t have any visable water problems in my yard, my neighbors do. I think if I lay concrete now or later it would crack and would be an expensive mistake. The garage is being used for storage right now and has no water problems. It`s about 5" above grade and is filled with crush & run and also 1/2",3/4' Gravel. I need a floor that will safely support the weight of a car on jackstands and since I wouldn`t be able to install a two post lift I would like to use a portable lift. The weight I would need supported in a concentrated area on the high side 5000lbs (Datsun 240z 2600lbs, 68 nova 3400lbs, S10 truck 3000lbs.) My idea is to level out the gravel and build a welded sqaure tube support grid. Put flat concrete block in the squares of the flooring grid and weld 3' x 10' flat 11ga steel sheets (150 lbs ea.) over top to finish the floor. This is of course just an idea and if it doesn`t fit my need safely then it won`t be built. Thanks, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 Why not just put down a water barrier (plastic), use a cage of rebar, and use 8 sack cement. That will stand up to anything. If it is as wet as you say, the steel will eventually rot away. Maybe some of the civil engineering types will chime in with some ideas too... Tim [edit].....with a sttel floor, if you ever have a shorted out electrical wire, you will be standing on a conductive floor!!![/edit] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 That much steel would be pretty expensive and probably not last 10 years before rusting through. Also 11 guage doesn't seem that thick to me. With proper footers I can't imagine you having any trouble with a slab that size. Might be a little more difficult to dig footers with the pole barn already in place. Minor cracks are no big deal. Your local building codes are more than likely sufficient. If you are really worried about it, double up on the rebar and pour a thicker slab. I couldn't imagine working on a car on a steel deck. Better hope it doesn't get cold where you live. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
660Z Posted June 26, 2004 Author Share Posted June 26, 2004 ].....with a sttel floor, if you ever have a shorted out electrical wire, you will be standing on a conductive floor!!! Thanks Tim I didn`t think of that maybe concrete is the only way I can go. With proper footers I can't imagine you having any trouble with a slab that size. Might be a little more difficult to dig footers with the pole barn already in place. Minor cracks are no big deal. Your local building codes are more than likely sufficient. If you are really worried about it, double up on the rebar and pour a thicker slab. I admit I know nothing about constrution and looking back I did this project backasswards. The reason I went with a polebarn instead of footers was so I could still keep my tree. Trenching footers would have killed a good portion of the roots and eventualy the tree it self. As far as cost concrete itself it`s very expensive. A neighbour across the street did a small concrete project...He replaced his sidewalk about 6 sqs and it cost him $900...I`m guessing it would cost me $4000 for what I need. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 If you dig the foundation/footers and lay the rebar, then you will just need the crete. About 18 yards worth (2 trucks). Just call the local concrete supplier and get a quote, have them pour it and finish it yourself..... Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-TARD Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 Could build it like a ship. Most of the ships I've had the misfortune to be stationed on use steel anywhere from 3/16" to 1/2" thick for deck plating, supported underneath by 4" to 6" "I" beams. This is capable of holding an immense amount of weight: Aircraft, Lathes and heavy machinery, and lots of other really heavy stuff. For a car I think you could get away with using 1/8" plate welded over 2" or 3" "I" beam. Afterwards you'd have to get under it and paint the underside for corrosion protection, although it would probably last for quite a while without it if it's only exposed to fresh water. A benefit of having a conductive floor is that if you do any welding, you can just weld your ground clamp to the floor, anything you weld can just sit on the floor and be grounded If that bothers you, you can paint or coat the floor to insulate it. Just my 2 cents worth of insanity. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Okimoto Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 If you build it out of stainless steel, you won't have that little problem with the rust... Plus, It'll look nice too. Also, since my z car doesn't have matching locks, I only have one key, and that's for the drivers door. I think the best bet would be to dig up the ground, lay drain tile down and away from there, slope the soil away from the garage, lay some gravel down, and put down a slab on grade style fdn... but if the water table is as high as it is, and your frost line is lower than the water table, then I don't really know what you should do to avoid frost heave? I also remembered that I DID have the keys to the rest of my z car, but i lost them. Stupid me, huh. How about a test bore before trying anything out? It would be cheaper than making a mistake, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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