Guest Anonymous Posted November 12, 2000 Share Posted November 12, 2000 Ok, Several month's ago I posted a question to the brakes forum about brake upgrade options to a 73 Z. When i did alot of people inquired more about the car than the brake issues I had asked about. This is the story; The car is a 73 240Z with a chevy 355 and a procharger (P600B) with a 14lb puley. The car has been dynoed at 343HP and 423lb ft. at the rear wheels. Stiometric is a consistent 12.3 from 2,000 to 5,500 rpm. The block is a early 70's 4bolt.Stock crank,rods, compression is 8.4 to 1, Heads are S/R torquer(mistake), cam is very mild "supercharger" grind, roller tipped rockers, Holley 625? carb from Procharger. Holley Blue pump (another mistake),Mallory boost indexed regulator, Edlebrock Performer manifold, ceramic coated block hugger headers, Flow-master Y pipe,3 inches back to flow-master 3 chamber exhaust,STOCK HEI ignition, 92 Camaro T-56 6 speed. R-200 open diff(mistake). I did the complete restoration of the car including all the rust repair and engine compartment fabrication. This was my first conversion and first "custom" restoration. I made a few mistakes which I would gladly share with anyone that cares. http://members.aa.net/~a57oval/ is the address if anyone is interested. If anyone wants a specific picture of the car let me know I will substitue it for another on the site. I wish I had found this site before I had done the car. The collective wisdome of this site would have netted me at least another 100hp for the same price. If anyone is interested I can also show you the dyno sheets. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 12, 2000 Share Posted November 12, 2000 Great looking car. Really nice detailing. Very respectible torque, should get with the program pretty good I'd imagine. Congrats! Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted November 12, 2000 Share Posted November 12, 2000 they body and paint work is great !matching paint under hood.did you build car and run it then take it apart to paint it?i would go crazy debugging a car this neat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted November 12, 2000 Share Posted November 12, 2000 Peter, Really clean set up. You answered my question as to whether it was possible to mount a 600 procharger in the setback position. I've seen other prochargers on V8s here, but never with the engine in the "proper" location. Do you have any flexing in your brackets? What pulley are you running to get 14 psi? 8rib? I'd love to do a procharged V8 but was intimidated by the sheetmetal work. What would you do differently? Also, about your Holley blue pump. I've had good success with the Mallory 140 and same regulator you're using. Post the dyno sheets. I like to see how and when the 600 makes it power. JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted November 13, 2000 Share Posted November 13, 2000 WOW! That's a sweet ride. The detailing, bodywork, bracketry are like artwork! Did you have to do any sheetmetal work to get the procharger to fit? ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Fast Frog Posted November 13, 2000 Share Posted November 13, 2000 Yes, a57oval: I'm echoing John Scott's interest in how you got the Procharger mounted with the engine in the setback position. It sounds like you did it by completely modifying the bracket so it sits closer to the center of the engine to clear the driver's side front strut tower. Or maybe you modified the bracket to sit several inches further to the front of the engine so your SC pulley belt is furthest to the front ahead of the alternator/water pump pulleys-instead of being closest to the engine next to the balancer. Please, please advise!!! Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted November 13, 2000 Share Posted November 13, 2000 A while ago a57oval gave me a pretty long email on how it was done. Peter, please share with everyone. JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 15, 2000 Share Posted November 15, 2000 about the mods; I had to cut the strut tower and fabricate a piece of metal that filled the void that was created by pushing the apron in front of the tower towards the outside of the car. I then welded it all up and did the rest of the bodywork. I also had to clearance the tower for the 4 inch tubing for the air cleaner. I made the tubing for the air cleaner and the carb out of mild steel exhaust tubing;3inch for the carb, 4inch for the air filter. I found out after spending $300 for the fuel pump that the mallory would have worked better. One complaint I have about the regulator is that it is NOT adjustable from 0 to 65 as they state. It is adjustable from 0 to 15 with the light spring, 15 to 35 with the medium spring,etc... I was told that I should have 7 to 8 psi at the carb at idle and 1 psi of fuel pressure per pound of boost. Since this car produces 9 lbs. of boost at 5500rpm I should have 16 to 17 at wide open throttle. Instead I only have 15. It doesn't seem to affect performance and the stiometric stays at 12.3 throughout the revs. To get the regulator to work properly the carb has 5 psi at idle. Randy77zt. Tha car had every sheet metal panel replaced including the roof but with the exception of the left quarter panel. The car was the wrong one to start with. Right frame rail,firewall and part of right apron behind the strut,fenders,doors,hatch,roof,right rocker. Originally I welded up all the holes in the engine compartment, smoothed all the seams and then painted it. I also base/clear coated the undercarriage once all the suspension was removed. The suspension parts were scuffed and painted semi-gloss black. All the suspension bushings were replaced with polyurethane and then it was reassembled. The JTR manual told me to cut off the transmission ears so I did this prior to painting the undercarriage. At first I did the engine compartment to accept a naturally aspirated v-8. It was pronounced "Too Slow" so out came the engine then a purpose built motor was done for a supercharger application. This required some altering of the sheetmetal in the engine compartment. John Scott; I am using the 8 rib 14 pound pulley to get 9 lbs. at 5500rpm. I haven't noticed any flex in the brackets. What i would do Differently. I would spend lots of time reseaching engine builders. Mine was a joke.I am very dissapointed with the horsepower and torque figures. These figures should be for a naturally aspirated v-8, not a supercharged one. I would ask a million people a million more questions than I did. I would have subscibed to the list alot earlier than I did. I would do sub-frame conectors. Check the make shift web site. the dyno sheets should be there. Fast Frog; I did not move the procharger closer to the crank; I moved it further forward by making custom spacers to go between the bracket that procharger supplied,a spacer for the alternator bracket;a spacer between the water pump and the pump pulley,welding a longer tab on the alternator bracket to fasten to the intake manifold, machining a spacer to go between the balancer and the pro-charger pulley which incidentally I had the outer pulley surfaced off, made spacers for the sway bar to clear the pro-charger pulley. I think I answered all the questions. I will take measurement of the spacers if anyone would like. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted November 15, 2000 Share Posted November 15, 2000 Peter, My regulator works the same. I also found that 4.5-5 psi was perfect @ idle. Much higher caused a surge from too much pressure at part throttle. I don't know how accurate the pump psi/boost psi rule is, but your 12.3 reading must indicate its keeping up. The hp levels do seem low for that much boost. Something is holding it back, cam profile? Carb cfm? JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted November 15, 2000 Share Posted November 15, 2000 Well, im not much of a V8 man but i must say excellent job on the car. Thats some great detail in the engine compartment! The body is gorgeous, i dont think ive seen the body kit on a dark colored car. Great work- Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RON JONES Posted November 15, 2000 Share Posted November 15, 2000 Very nice job on the car.Wow,400 ft.lbs at a little over 3000rpm at the rear wheels.That car must pull like crazy when you nail it.I'm a big fan of good tourqe #'S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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