Guest subdermal Posted July 6, 2004 Share Posted July 6, 2004 so I found what I believe to be the signal flasher/relay thing. its got 3 connectors, labelled H, B and S (hazard, battery, signals ?) The wire connected to the B connection has +12v with the ignition in On or Acc. With that wire connected, the H post has a steady +12 and the S has 0v. Is this normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest subdermal Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 ok so that box has nothing to do with either signals or hazards... back to the drawing board. I think I found little cylindrical things that look like the flashers shown in the haynes manual under the instrument panel, and what do you know - one of them was unplugged! so I plug it back in, expecting the signals to work now. wrong! on the plus side, the engine no longer diesels when i turn it off. that makes 3 things I've "accidentally" fixed while trying to solve this mystery. (horn, running lights, dieseling) if anyone has any hints I'd appreciate it. This is driving me nuts. current symptoms: signals do nothing. no exterior lights, no dash indicators.hazards work as expected both exterior and dash. (uses the same bulbs, correct?)switch is fine. resistance when closed = <200 ohms. cleaned switch, no change. shorted switch wires, still no signals. my next test will be to short the wires in the plug that i just connected. If the problem is the flasher, I should get constant illumination of the signals on the selected side, yes? sorry for the newb questions... this is my first electrical work in a car, and I'm feeling a little overwhelmed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strotter Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 OK, I'm looking over the wiring diagram, and I'm seeing that there are *two* flasher relays, one for turn signals, another for hazard. The turn signal relay has a solid green wire and a solid white wire (at least in the diagram; you have to take them with a grain of salt). The hazard (referred to as a "four-way flasher") relay has a blue/white and a green/white. I believe the turn-signal relay is on the kick panel on the driver's side, the hazard *may* be on or near the kick panel on the passenger side. I have a .pdf file of the diagram I created. If you'd like a copy, I'll be glad to email it. It's quite a bit easier to read than the diagrams in the books; it took days with a magnifying glass and a 2400 dpi scanner to get it right. My email is scotttro@sbcglobal.net. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunan Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 Sounds like your turn flasher is bad. they are only a few bucks it's easy to start by replacing it. Do your park lights work? If not it is the power wire that feeds your turn and park lights is dead. I think it is white/red and becomes black under the steering column near the ignition where it splits into two. If that has power than it must be the flasher or the switch. forget the wires going to the lights if your hazards work it can't be anything else. The turn signals go through the hazard switch when its off. The haz switch uses a seperate supply voltage that comes into the haz switch. Both switches (haz and turn) need to have power at them to then send power out when the switch is on. There are two seperate flashers so thats why haz may work but not turn. Your flasher can go bad two ways, lights always on or always off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest subdermal Posted July 11, 2004 Share Posted July 11, 2004 thanks guys. it just gets more and more interesting... I found the flashers. I pulled the hazards flasher and measured the voltage across the inputs: 0v with the haz switch off, 14v with it on. Sounds reasonable. Did the same thing with the signal flasher: 0v off, 0.04v with it on (right or left gets the same result). So it looks like the flasher isn't even the problem (or at least not the only problem). Next up, testing the hazard switch. Perhaps that signals circuit isn't closed like its supposed to be when the hazard switch is off.... Thank you both for your help. Strotter, what year/model is your diagram for? I'm working on a 74 260. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strotter Posted July 11, 2004 Share Posted July 11, 2004 It started out as one of the diagrams from the Haynes manual. It's the "240Z (Basic model S30 series U.S.A. manual and automatic transmission)", as opposed to the "240Z (Late model S30 series U.S.A. - manual and automatic transmission)" I've been a little bit hesitant to share it, as I'm sure there are errors I've added to it, in addition to the errors already in it. I'm working on a "cleaned up" version, hopefully more readable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunan Posted July 11, 2004 Share Posted July 11, 2004 In your last post you wrote with the turn flasher on you had 0.04volts is that a typo? You should have 14 at the flasher all the time off or on, on both sides of the flasher. When you hit the turn signal it induces a load on the element in the flasher which heats up, opens then cools and closes, heats up opens, so on and so on. So if you don't have power at the flasher thats why they don't work.I'm looking at a dia for a 74 and it looks like the power should be coming from a green wire at the haz to the flasher out of the flasher to the ts switch, then when you through the switch it goes out to the lights inducing the load on the flasher. Hope that helps. Good luck I just went threw the same thing last week so I know what a pain in the *ss it is. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest subdermal Posted July 11, 2004 Share Posted July 11, 2004 nope wasnt a typo, with the flasher pulled off the plug I measured the voltage across the plug leads. got 0 with the TS switch in neutral, and 0.04 with it in the R or L position. The hazard switch does properly close the TS connection when in the off position, also. So now I'm looking towards the fuse box area to see where the other 13.6 volts are going.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest subdermal Posted July 16, 2004 Share Posted July 16, 2004 update, mostly for anyone that finds this topic by searching for similar problems: The circuit for the turn signals is fed by a black wire with a white stripe that also goes through a few switches (door switch, and a seat sensor, if I read the diagram right). The seat sensor is long gone, so I just fed the constant +12 from the battery to those fuses and now I have turn signals! As an added bonus, nothing caught fire.... Thanks to all who posted with their help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.