Guest 305240 Posted July 27, 2004 Share Posted July 27, 2004 I almost welded my motor mounts before I checked the clearance for the remote oil filted adapter. I don't have one yet. Does anyone know how far they protrude from the block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted July 27, 2004 Share Posted July 27, 2004 I'm using a "Transadapt" remote filter assembly, but using Russell (or Earl's as I'm not sure which) 10-AN fittings and braided line. The aluminum adapter is 1.5" thick, and the two 90 degree curved bend AN fittings are a total of 3 additional inches. I believe the Transadapt parts use a 90 degree fitting that is brass, and is drilled, which makes it much more compact (closer to 2" long instead of 3"). Thus mine is about 4.5" long total. But remember, on mine the fittings start turning before the full 4.5" which allows a closer fit than this if it's just slightly above the frame rail (which mine is). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted July 27, 2004 Share Posted July 27, 2004 Thanks. I think I'd better get my adapter first, then weld. I'm tired of doing things more than once. Oh the fun of fabbing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted July 27, 2004 Share Posted July 27, 2004 Isn't it fun? Measure 3 times.. cut twice.. crap.. still too short! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted July 27, 2004 Share Posted July 27, 2004 The first set of mounts I made cost me 15 bux. I set the engine where I wanted it, then tacked up the 1/2" plates I was using. I had enough room for a short oil filter too! Drilled the holes. ( I was using the engine motor mounts bolted to the fabbed piece, which bolted to the frame mount) Bolted it in, or tried to, they wouldn't line up right. The pan set on the crossmember. Scrap that plan. Next I aligned the engine again, used the datsun mounts, fabbed up another plate and bolted it to the motor mounting plate on the engine. It worked super...or so I thought. I forgot to take into consideration the engine weight compressing the rubber mounts. DUH! The pan still set on the crossmember. Those cost me 11 bux. Along comes a bright idea I cut 4, 1/4 spacer plates (that's all I had at the time) and put 2 between each fabbed plate and the mount. Guess what? It set in beautiful! 3/8" between the pan and crossmember! the level I had on the carb had the bubble in the center! (I put the car up on blocks, leveling it out before I started) Now, I discovered I have about 2" between the top of the fabbed plate and the oil filter screw. Plan 3 to come into play. I'm removing the 2 1/4" spacers and putting an 1"x1 1/2"x2" spacer between the upper and lower parts of the fabbed plates instead of the 1"x1"x2" I already have. I'm hoping I'll have enough room for the oil filter adapter to bolt on. The plate looks something like this: ====******** ***|| ***==== I hope you all get the idea. BTW, it cost me 4 bux to get those 1/4" spacer plates cut. No telling what it will cost for the new spacers I need. God, I love this stuff! Sorry about the astricks. The funny drawing wouldn't come out right otherwise...lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt_Zorro Posted July 27, 2004 Share Posted July 27, 2004 Here's some drawings of the driver's side motor mount if they will be large enough to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt_Zorro Posted July 27, 2004 Share Posted July 27, 2004 That was a little large, see if this works better... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Wow Capt Z. I can see those wothout my bifocals! Question. Does that mount interfeer with the steering shaft? It looks to be set back about an inch or so more than mine is. The reason I set mine there is for all the clearance and I can use the stock trans crossmember. I got your e-mail and am keeping it on file. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt_Zorro Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Yea, it's for the hard of seeing... I used the "street rod tight tuck generic headers" and have plenty of clearance. If I did the mount again I'd probably move it back about an inch more and drop it about a half. This one is just simple to make. I had to make a new trans. crossmember but used the original mounting points. Just sat the motor on the mounts and then made the crossmember out of 1" square tubing. Had to weld a piece on angle on the back to catch the ford trans mount. Adios Amigos, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt_Zorro Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt_Zorro Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 There's the other side mount, you can torch cut these from 2x4 channel or 2x3 angle. I cut mine with a band saw when I did them. The Driver's side can be 2x3 I believe I cut mine from a piece of scrap that only had 1 1/2 on the short side to keep as a template (that's been about 15 yrs. ago). These mounts give good clearance all around as you can see in the pics of my engine in some previous posts. I'll scrounge around and see if I can find the trans. mount. I have it somewhere but when I cleaned out the garage I didn't see it the last time. I always put stuff up where I can easily find it, but when I go to look for it the "garage elves" have hidden it. I usually spend more time looking for parts and tools than actually working on a project. If I get the AOD project off the ground I'll have to take the trans mount out for the C-4 so I'll be able to get the measurements off it then. Adios Amigos, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt_Zorro Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 Hey it worked! Here are the engine mount plans. If a "Hillbilly" could do this swap twenty years ago with a hot wrench, and a 110V mig welder you guy's shouldn't have too much trouble with it today. I'm thinking about re-doing mine with a new 5.0 and 5 speed when things calm down a little. I've found a T-5 that needs a new mainshaft and bought a shaft off e-bay so guess I'll be trying to get info on rebuilding a T-5 soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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