Guest Big Phil Posted November 22, 2002 Share Posted November 22, 2002 Hey Guys, There is an excellent article in the December Issue of GM High-Tech Performance magazine. In the article, they track test 11 LT1 Camaros (4 T56 cars and 7 automatic car) to see how much difference inexpensive bolt on made on a LT1 car. The fastest car (3360 lbs)ran the 1/4 mile in 12.42 sec at 108.8 mph. The slowest car ran a traction limited 14.05 at 98.1 mph (also the heavest ride at 3660 lbs) Exhaust: Headers (shorties or long tube) with cat back free flowing exhaust (dual or single) Induction: Descreened MAF, Throttle body bypass Cold air Intake, 1.6 roller rockers Water pump: Meziere or CSI electric. Considering that a Z is at least 400 lbs lighter and LT1 Z would really haul. Add a LT4 hot cam kit, Air Foil, Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator and some careful tuning and you would have a 50 state emissions legal streetable 11 sec Z car. Price of parts: GM Performance Hot Cam Kit(includes 1.6 roller rockers) $499.99 Meziere Electric Water Pump $199.99 GMS MAF Housing 77.99 TPS Throttle Body Air Foil $59.99 Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator $151.99 Total price $990. Anyone doing a LT1 swap would be wise to pick up the magazine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted November 22, 2002 Share Posted November 22, 2002 Thanks for the info Phil. Cool stuff! What is the advantage of the GMS MAF housing though...not familiar with that one. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Big Phil Posted November 22, 2002 Share Posted November 22, 2002 GMS sells a complete MAF sensor and housing replacement for $329.00 that flows 49% more than stock combination. Now you can just replace the housing with a larger one that flows more than the stock unit and use the factory sensor portion. This is alot cheaper ($75.99 thru Jegs). The old school way to improve airflow thru the factory unit was to descreen your stock MAF housing which cost nothing. Swapping the housing out is easier and it flows al ittle more than a descreened stock housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted November 22, 2002 Share Posted November 22, 2002 Phil, I believe that my stock MAF is dodgey 'cause if I try to start the engine with it connected, the car runs for a few seconds, then stalls. If I unplug it (defaulting to speed density), it runs just fine, although takes a little while for the revs to reach a low idle. Anyways, if I were to buy a new one, is it correct to assume that the most effective replacement would be the GMS unit (not knowing what a OEM MAF costs)? Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Big Phil Posted November 22, 2002 Share Posted November 22, 2002 Buy the aftermarket unit, it is probably close to the same price but it performs better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted November 22, 2002 Share Posted November 22, 2002 Originally posted by Big Phil:GM Performance Hot Cam Kit(includes 1.6 roller rockers) $499.99 Meziere Electric Water Pump $199.99 GMS MAF Housing 77.99 TPS Throttle Body Air Foil $59.99 Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator $151.99 * Hotcam kit $459 from Jason Cromer * Meziere sucks, known for premature failures, CSI is rated to last a thousand hours longer, flows more (not much of course), and has no problems for me so far * MAF housing, waste of money * Airfoil, reponsible for 1.1 HP increase, waste of money * Ajustable FP regulator, good for 93 cars, worthless for others as the computer will compensate to keep BLMs close to 128, which DOES affect your WOT calculations, save your money. Magazines are more often sales tools, than real down to earth sensability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted November 22, 2002 Share Posted November 22, 2002 Originally posted by Big Phil:Buy the aftermarket unit, it is probably close to the same price but it performs better. DONT buy a ported MAF, they are a waste of money, and people who see actual GAINS from them are RARE. I ported my own, and tuned it to 110% of the stock MAF tables (10% increase estimation obviously), and that brought my car back in tune for the most part, but caused more PITA than good. The MAF is not a restriction for most people, there is a guy in CA running a street legal blown 383, high 9 second, through the stock "restrictive" MAF and even the single CAT, it is fully legal. My advice, is to find a reasonable under $100 completely stock unit off eBay or CamaroZ28.com etc, I found a set of stock MAF ends with the screen and plenum in tact and bought it for only $35, since my MAF itself was still good I used the housing and returned my MAF fields to stock. The aftermarket wants your money, and more often than not there is alot of BS advertising best case scenarios which are few and far between in the real world, underdrive pulleys follow the same law of BS on LT1 cars. JMO from my own experiences and observations Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Big Phil Posted November 22, 2002 Share Posted November 22, 2002 Tim240z, I am not sure how interchangeable the LS1 and LT1 MAF are. If you are planning on replacing a faulty MAF sensor and adding Nitrous, you might want to look at the new Nitrous Express Gemini Twin EFI system. The system is complete and comes with a billet aluminum MAF sensor housing that is preplumbed for Nitrous. I saw it at S.E.M.A last month so check it out. Nitrous Express Website Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted November 22, 2002 Share Posted November 22, 2002 Descreening the stock housing is a "2 second job", removing the plenum is not. I still recommend firmly against it, its there for a reason. The screen was removed from the 2001 Z06 because they have a straight intake shot, if you setup your car the same way then its probably ok, I still like the plenum however and the screen on my LT1 with its contorted air intake setup. The screen helps ensure nice even flow over the MAF sensor itself, especially when there are twists in the intake ducting. Play with your STOCK MAF fields in the PCM instead of buying a GR unit, I have spoken to the guy in email and I like him, but the product is a waste of money. Many people either have no gains, or lose speed at the track, only a rare few speak up and say "yeah, I got 5HP", do it yourself in the PCM since your going to tune it anyway right? The LS1 MAF does not have the same frequency range as the LT1s, wiring harness differences aside. I can put you in touch with people who have done work with an LS1 unit I believe, I know the Z06 was looked at but that was a no go. If you really want a larger housing then grab one, but I would still work with the stock MAF over an aftermarket unit. As for the air foil: http://www.ws6.com/mod-4.htm While ever so slightly it may increase power (while moving), you can get a cheap 52mm TB for barely more than that. I however just ran a 58mm, fixed the screwed up casting (they are not like the stock casting, I can explain if someone wants detail on this), and bored out the LT1 intake for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted November 23, 2002 Share Posted November 23, 2002 Some info from the Corvette forum: MAF MAF 2 Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted November 23, 2002 Share Posted November 23, 2002 http://members.cox.net/chipsbyal/idle.htm http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/TB/ http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/TB/DSCF0706.JPG http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/TB/DSCF0699.JPG http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/TB/DSCF0704.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Big Phil Posted November 23, 2002 Share Posted November 23, 2002 Mudge, You probably right. None of the cars in the test had an airfoil,adjustable fuel regulator or an aftermarket MAF. I am planning on upgrading my entire fuel delivery system (EFI pump, filters, lines and fuel cell) so I might as well add the regulator to finish off the package (might be helpful when dialing the motor in for emissions). Instead of descreening the stock housing, it is easier to just swap it and it is only $70 bucks. Also if the factory unit is defective you might as well buy the aftermarket unit instead of the replacing the stock one(factory unit retails for $300). I might skip the airfoil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted November 23, 2002 Share Posted November 23, 2002 Do you guys know whether the LS1 MAF will work with the LT1. They look physically similar (from pictures anyway). Are there any differences? From what I see here I would probably just pick one up from E-Bay or salvage yard for cheap. Has anyone had any experience with the Throttle body with integrated NO2 injection passages (stealth injection)? Worth the $500 buck or so from Jegs? Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 26, 2002 Share Posted December 26, 2002 Originally posted by Tim240Z:Do you guys know whether the LS1 MAF will work with the LT1. yes, it will. a friend of mine has a 99 LS1 and a 94 Blown LT1. He bought a Z06 MAF for the LS1 and we replaced the stock LT1 MAF with the "ported/cleaned out" LS1 MAF. It worked just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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