Swapped in manual R&P, now U-joint rubs

[Kazuya1274]

My car is an 81 ZX which had the crummy recirculating ball steering. I got the crossmember, steering rack, and steering shaft from a 79 with manual steering (going lightweight). Everything bolted up fine, but at the U-joint that connects to the steering coupler (right at the firewall) the joint rubs when the steering is turned. It only rubs at 2 points though, so the car is pretty driveable. I noticed that the angle is further to the right than it was normally, which causes the rub. My questions are, what is the difference between these U-joints on the 79 vs. the 81 with recirculating ball steering? If there is a notable difference, how hard would it be to get the joint off of the 79? Better yet, if I had to replace the whole steering coulumn, how hard of a job would that be?

[80LS1T]

Do you mean the U-joint is binding or is it actually hitting something? I would think the column might be a little different or offset a little different that the manual rack which mihg be causing your problem. I think a few guys have done what you did so maybe the search function can shed some light on this one?

 

 

Guy

[blueovalz]

This may not help, but it sounds as though the new rack pushes the steering shaft assembly toward the firewall somewhat more than the original did (this is based on the Z steering column design, but like I said earlier, I'm just throwing out some info that may help). On my Z, the shaft is splined so that it slides in and out of the steering column, thus movement fore and aft is possible for the rod and u-joint (for the collapsible column). If the ZX is of the same design, then I posit that the ZX used two different steering shafts and that the rack-associated shaft was a tad bit shorter between the rack and the U-joint then the R/B shaft was.

 

EDIT, I now notice you replaced the steering shaft as well...sorry. Would replacing the rubber damper between the inner and outer shafts with a thinner material pull the U-joint forward enough to keep it from rubbing?

[Kazuya1274]

Thanks for the help guys The U-joint is binding. It is the same problem as when you use one on your socket extension and the angle is too much. The angle of the U-joint is moved too far to the right in my car's case. Using a little backyard engineering, I took an air powered pencil grinder and ground out the round concave portions of the U-joint (between where the two joints bolt together) and was able to remove some of the metal there that was causing it to bind. The tip wore down pretty quick, but I was able to get enough off to where when I make a turn and then let go of the wheel, it will return to center. Before, it would return to the bind, and I would have to muscle the wheel back to center. Kinda scary. Now I think its safe to take it to the alignment shop. I wish I could see a picture of a 79 ZX with the manual R & P to see if there is a noticeable difference between mine. The parts I got I ordered over the phone, so I didn't get to see the car.

[Kazuya1274]

blueovalz,

I did happen to change the steering coupler with one of MSA's urethane ones. The difference b/t the RB and R&P is that the R&P has a long steering shaft going to the rack, where as the RB goes from the coupler directly to the gear box. I compared my car with another ZX with the power R&P and noticed that my steering shaft was angled further to the right than the other one. Wish I knew someone with a ZX that had manual R&P steering so I could compare. Oh well, a little more grinding should make it perfect though, just have to get a new grinding tip!

[levi3011]

I know this thread is dead but I had the same issue. I replaced my Recirculating Ball out of my 80 for a 81 manual rack and it was binding. I had both different size coupler and neither worked so I took a grinder and removed some of the metal. I seriously wonder with the columns are different? Also after you did all that did your steering feel choppy driving side to side?