briann510 Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 I dont have my JTR book handy, but someone just told me that the JTR V8 kit needs to have their motor mounts modified some or the actual frame pads drilled or elongated for the JTR mounts? this person also told me that when the SBC is put in that it can slide forward or back in the mounts and then tightened down depending how far or forward i want the engine to sit. Is this right? sorry i dont have my book where i am this weekend and i need to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 77vegasz Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 The hole in your frame motor mounts needs to be slotted in both directions at least 1/4-1/2 inch. You can use a file or Dremmel tool etc. I tried to skip this step, and my HEI was only about 1/8" off of the firewall, so I had to pull it and do this. Once done, it allows you some adjustment in your final placement. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briann510 Posted October 1, 2004 Author Share Posted October 1, 2004 so this is only for positioning the clearance for the distributor only and may not be necessary if not running an HEI? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 If you're running something like an LT1 then you don't absolutely have to slot the mounts but it does allow you to position other aspects of the install where you want them. When I first test fit my LT1 I hadn't slotted the mounts and everything seemed to fit good except that the shifter was a little further forward than I wanted it and to far to the left. So I slotted my mounts and was able to move the engine around until I had everyhting right where I wanted them. For the amount of work is to slot them it's worth the effort. Use a dremel, a file or a bur in an angle grinder. I used a wheel on my angle grinder and it took more material than I wanted. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briann510 Posted October 1, 2004 Author Share Posted October 1, 2004 so if they are slotted to move the engine around a little, how would one know if the engine is in their perfectly straight and not cocked to one side a little bit? i mean even a 1/4 inch off one side to the other forward or rearward is alot when the driveshaft alignment is in question and not perfectly right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383 240z Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 Alingnment is critical, but not as much as you may think. rember the whole motor is shifted to the pass side to start with. I had to slot mine so that the tranny (TH-700r4) would cear the tunnel. Good luck. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briann510 Posted October 1, 2004 Author Share Posted October 1, 2004 Thanks much! My son and I are goingto do a conversion and I am just trying to anticipate any problems before hand as he wants to do it all in 1 weekend which I think is asking a bit much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383 240z Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 If you can pull the swap off in 48 hours you will earn thr title of a man among men! Did you figure on how long it will take to get the driveshaft made and the custom exhaust fitted, or is that the time frame to get the motor physically in the car? Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briann510 Posted October 1, 2004 Author Share Posted October 1, 2004 That was the time frome to get the engine/tranny, radiator, hoses etc. in and all bolted up. the drive shaft would have to be after all that was done for measurement. My son is now leaning towards a 3.1 stroker motor so now i dont know whats going on. the stroker engine we can just throw in and bolt it up and go, but im not sure what i need to talk him into doing now as the stroker engine we watched them dyno at Rebello racing yesterday sounded awesome and made 345 HP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 When we did the LT1/T56 into a 280 I'm glad we slotted the holes. The tranny fit much better with the motor slid forward. I don't see any down side to slotting the holes. In four years I haven't read any posts here of motor mount failures due to the slotted holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 77vegasz Posted October 2, 2004 Share Posted October 2, 2004 For the money, the V8 conversion will put a bigger grin on your son's face than the 3.1L stroker. I used a B&M shifter with a cable, so tranny placement was not so crucial, I needed the movement to get the right amount of clearance for the HEI distributor. The first time getting the engine in takes the longest, but with two People, it should go easily inside an afternoon. I have pulled mine several times and put it back in. I can pull it in undet 1 1/2 hours by myself and get it back in and ready to go alone in about 3. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briann510 Posted October 2, 2004 Author Share Posted October 2, 2004 actually the sound of the 350 HP stroker engine we watched being dyno'd a few days ago sounded way better than any chevy with 350 HP we ever heard. the 1250 rpm idle also sounded like a dang race car compared to a same HP chevy. it also had a flat torque curve from 2000-6200 rpm with 300 ft/lbs. i have never seen a chevy engine with a flat torque curve like that before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted October 2, 2004 Share Posted October 2, 2004 i have never seen a chevy engine with a flat torque curve like that before. I'm not going to start a flame war with that comment, but I have to tell you that so far, the Chevy is the best bang-for-the-buck combination you can come up with. Compare costs of building a 383 with 400 hp to a 3.1 stroker with 300 hp. But if sound is all you're going for, try a different camshaft... Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briann510 Posted October 3, 2004 Author Share Posted October 3, 2004 i do agree a sbc will be way cheaper than a stroker 6 and have more of a variety of aftermarket parts available for less money also. i was just comparing same 325-350 HP sounds in different engines. no flaming intended Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 unflamed. The v8 chevy will blow the doors off of the stroked 3.1. A mild 350 will have over 300 tq from 3K to 6K easy. My 406 dyno'd at 690HP and 552 tq with over 400 tq from 2800 to 7000rpm. My boys 350 dyno'd at 630hp and 520tq and made over 400 tq from 3200 to 7500. If this 260z don't fly we'll wish it did and flame it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 A mild 350 will have over 300 tq from 3K to 6K easy. Yes, I do believe that is in the ballpark. I researched my motor build and picked out a nice 'mild' cam that should have me at 350 hp and the same amount of torque or very close. Should make for some tire shredding fun Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsun327 Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 what does it mean to slot the mounts i was trying to understnad this tread but sence i dont know what slotting is im lost. some fill me in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deMideon Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 My 377 just dropped right in... I didn't need to slot it or anything and it's within 1/2 inch of the firewall.. perfect for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted October 7, 2004 Share Posted October 7, 2004 what does it mean to slot the mounts i was trying to understnad this tread but sence i dont know what slotting is im lost. some fill me in The JTR manual says to slot the mounting arms on the crossmember, NOT the engine mounts that bolt to the engine. The slotting allows your engine to slide back and forth one inch, giving you the optimum placement for the engine to your personal specs. Guys do it without slottign anything and it works fine, but for the ultimate setup, break out the Dremmel. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsun327 Posted October 7, 2004 Share Posted October 7, 2004 The JTR manual says to slot the mounting arms on the crossmember, NOT the engine mounts that bolt to the engine. The slotting allows your engine to slide back and forth one inch, giving you the optimum placement for the engine to your personal specs davy thanks for clearing that up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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