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HELP NOS APPLICATION QUESTION


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Hey guys, I am getting a NOS cheater kit that has 150-250 jets in the kit. I know I cant run them because of my pistons being hypers. However, can I run a 75 jet without much fear of melt down etc? Could I run a 100 shot without worries...can anyone chime in.

 

Secondly if I am currently running 12.3s on engine, what could I expect with a 75 shot and a 100 shot. Any input is appreciated.

 

Corzette

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ive made about 100 passes with my stock ls1 on the bottle. i am using a 100 shot and have never had any problems, but there are some preparations involved. first of all i never recommend a dry kit, ive seen three of my friends lose their motors that way they require alot of tweaking to run right. second if you are using a wet kit you need to make sure your fuel pump is up to the task. third, depending on your compression you may need to pull some timing to avoid detonation. fourth, make sure you use some plugs that are at least a couple heat ranges colder (i used ngk tr6 for my ls1 i think) and the NON PLATINUM type. after that just follow the manufacture recommendations for the jet sizes, if you run too rich you could cause an intake backfire and possibly start a fire, too lean and you're looking at rebuilding the bottom end at the very least. i dont mean to scare you but it just needs to be set up right and you'll have years of trouble free use. it also doesn't hurt to have it tuned at a dyno shop where they can measure your air fuel ratio and make sure its set up ferfect, however nitrous is pretty forgiving as long as its close. as far as your 1/4 mile improvements... that depends on your traction, the point you hit the button, and how much your car weighs. my car has plenty of traction so i was able to start squeezing in first gear at 3000 rpm's and consistently lost 1.2 seconds and gained 14 mph on the 100 shot. hope this helps some.

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The timing should be retarded by 1.5-2 deg. for every 50hp, spark plugs should be 1 heat range colder for every 100hp, and make sure your fuel pressure will be able to keep up with the added demand. You should be fine with the 75 shot or 100 for that matter. I've read cast pistons can take up to 125, so i'd expect hypereutectic pistons to handle at least that, but of course forged is always the better choice.

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That long rod 385 plus nitrous will be a real kick :shock: Just don't let your eyes get sucked into the back of your skull :lol: You might want to look for a solid axle as well.

 

Good luck!! Maybe we will meet up and run them one day.

 

Mike

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Hey Mike! How is the car coming along? We are trying to put a little group to go to Ennis. Probably next season. Would be cool to meet you and some of the local guys there. Imagine going down the strip doing elevens side by side with no juice :shock: Too cool....

 

Terry

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Engine combo sounds nice.AFR's should do the job!! For what its worth,I have a 400 .040 over (408 cu in I think).I set up a window switch to come in at 3000 rpm and shut off at 5800.This lets the car get moving a bit before the spray hits it.It runs 11.9 on the motor,11.4 w/100 shot.Still 1 legged in back but does consistent 1.7 60' with nitto drag radials@ 30psi.Just some numbers to play with.Good luck with your rebuild. :D

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest Magnum Rockwilder

The nitrous plate should do the same job as the spacer, but it would be a good idea to do all-motor runs with and without the spacer and see if there's a noticeable difference. Dynoing it would be best, because a spacer can and will make a difference, but it's hard to feel in the seat of the pants or see on a timeslip unless you're dead consistent. No one can predict whether it'll make more power with or without it... it's different for all combos.

 

As for the size of the "shot", you can EASILY run a 100 shot on ANY SBC, and the 150 shot is fine as long as you also have a few things done:

 

colder COPPER plugs, 2 heat ranges for a 150 shot,

a timing retard dialed in when the car is on spray,

a good a/f ratio on and off spray,

don't spray more than 10 seconds (a good rule for ANY nitrous application).

 

You can buy a progressive controller to adjust the timing (and size of the shot), or you can get a timing retard module and wire it in with the nitrous activation circuit.

 

On a car this light, a true 100hp shot should drop a full second, and a 150 shot should drop 1.5 seconds off the 1/4... if you spray off the line.

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