Poundz9oh9 Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 Hey guys, looking at a possible motor for my swap and am just looking for opinions on this...... "1986-1992 1 piece rear main seal 350 chevy 4 bolt block with complete block prep including alignhone mains. bored .030 over with new flat top pistons and moly rings, new cam bearings and freeze plugs, resurfaced deck. Heads are Vortec casting and 3 angle valve job 1.940 intake valves and 1.500 exhaust valves new Z28 springs set at 100 lbs of seat pressure, ZZ4 roller cam kit , new roller rockers 1.6 ratio, Airgap aluminum intake. Forged STEEL crank shaft with heat treated Clevite race bearings. 5.7 rods with good bolts new melling oil pump and screen, new tall polished aluminum valve covers.Approx. 10:1 compression. Approx. 400ft/lbs, 400+ hp on pump gas!!!!!!!! New pushrods, new head bolts, fel pro gaskets . Melling timing chain set, new timing cover Block Casting # - 14093638 Pistons - FM part # 423cp+.030 Rings - Hastings part # 2m-139+.030 Crank - GM Forged Steel .010-.010 forging # 14088532 Main Bearings - Clevite part # ms909h+.010 Rod Bearings - Clevite part # 663h+.010 Timing Chain Set - Melling part # 3-506sc Oil Pump - Melling part # m55a Heads - Vortec GM castings - part #062 Valve Springs - Melling Z28 replacement part # vs46620 Valves - SBI 1.940 intake part # 00696 - 1.50 exhaust part # 00400 Aluminum Roller Rockers 1.6 ratio - Engine Works part # 66914 Gaskets - Fel Pro Air Gap Intake - Power Plus ZZ4 Hydraulic Roller Cam - NEW GM" "Hydraulic Roller 0.474"/0.510" lift with a 1.5 rocker arm, with the addition of our 1.6 rocker arms corrected lift #'s are 0.506/0.544. 208/221 degrees is factory specs, and with the 1.6's there would be a slight duration increase also." Anybody see any loop holes or problems with the info or claims. TIA!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 Man o Man, you are building that poor thing all wrong! Better give it to me before you waste any more money. Note: Please don't ship it COD. JK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Magnum Rockwilder Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 Sounds about right to me, but the price is the key. You can build something with the same HP output with a few key differences (no Vortec heads or GM cam/valvetrain parts) for cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 Ought to be real streetable and sassy. Go for it. Is it going to be efi or carburated? Remember the one piece rear seal cranks take a different flywheel/flexplate. 305240 is right, your building it all wrong. But so you don't have to bother with shipping, give me your address and I'll come take that junkola off your hands and haul it to my garage, eh, the dump, yeah, the dump. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poundz9oh9 Posted October 31, 2004 Author Share Posted October 31, 2004 Well, it'll be carburated with my 600 CFM Edelbrock Carb. (yeah I know it should be more, but that's what I got for now. Was thinking about EFI, but I heard that the aftermarket set-ups aren't all that great. Price?? $1600, plus gas on a 600 mile round trip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poundz9oh9 Posted November 2, 2004 Author Share Posted November 2, 2004 so.............. decent deal?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poundz9oh9 Posted November 4, 2004 Author Share Posted November 4, 2004 Anybody????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 $1600 sounds like a decent price to me, although not a screaming bargain. Do you know anything about who built it? Is there any warranty? Has it been test run or dynoed? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poundz9oh9 Posted November 4, 2004 Author Share Posted November 4, 2004 30 day warranty, not ran at all....... I'd be looking for an engine dyno to get it up and running within the warranty period to break the cam in and get some solid numbers on it. But I don't even know where one is located here. $1600 was about the lowest price I got when I was calling the "local" shops and the prices ranged from the 1600 all the way up to about 2600. I'm just debating on whether I should go ahead and pick it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 Well, the real way to tell is to have them pull the pan while you're there, then you could really see what's what. Other than that if the pan is on look at the rear flange of the crank, if the parting line is thin, say .125 then it is a cast crank, if it's .250 or so, then it's forged steel and likely they are telling the truth. Pull the valve covers, check the casting numbers. You know, it's your money, better check it out first before laying down hard cash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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