80LS1T Posted February 12, 2003 Author Share Posted February 12, 2003 Ok heres the updated list... New... *Crane Hydraulic Rolller Lifters *LT4 Cam Kit(springs, cam, retainers, 1.6 RR) *Gasket set for top end(valve cover, intake heads, timing chain cover, vaper line gaskets, and a couple others) *Bosch 36lb injectors *Holley 58mm TB *Heads are being P&P'ed by Jeff Odno of Ondo Performance and he is also doing the valve job and new valves *Center Force Dual Fricion clutch and throw out bearing *Comp Cams chromolly push rods *Cloyes Double Roller Timing set(Thanks for teh help on this one Mudge! ) *CSI Electric Water Pump *162 Bolt Set from MS Fastners on Flatlander Racings website(basically a complete engine bolt set) *Updated Optispark to 95+ with updated timing cover Here's what I'm reusing... *Flywheel resurfaced if possible Here's what I think/know I need *New pistons & rings(Hypers but what brand??? I think I'm going to go with about 10.5:1 - 11:1, some where in there) *New main, rod, cam bearings Some gaskets that I know I dont have yet *Fluid dampner *Freeze Plugs *Thermostat... Should I get the 160degree one or a stock one??? Now here's my questions... What connecting rods do I have in there right now as a stock engine? Are they the "pink" rods or the "PM" rods? I thought they started to use the PM rods in the Corvettes in like 94' or 95'? So that's why I think I still have the "pink" rods? Does anybody know??? I am going to reuse them if they are the PM's but if not then I am going to get some new PM rods from Pace Performance for $242.00. Here's my other question...Is the LT1 oil pump the same as any other late model oil pump? Or is it specail too! Just cause it says LT1 on it they seem to think they can charge twice as much! Bastards! LOL I should have expected it though Anyways can someone direct me to a good oil pump? Also do you have to buy the pick up screen, tube and drive gears all seperate or do they come with the pump? Sorry for such a long post but this is my first rebuild! Thanks again, Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted February 12, 2003 Share Posted February 12, 2003 The CSI can save about 10 HP depending on RPM, the stock pump doesn't flow quite as much as the CSI, at what RPM it would I dont know but so far as I know its beyond 7k which we can't run on a stock PCM anyway. Plus it removes some stress from the cam, thats a good thing. The Center Force is nicknamed the Center-Farce, there are some other nicknames for it too, lots of problems with those clutches, I hope they have fixed them by now. Basically, they never fit, the early solution was to use an extremely thick and heavy flywheel which is a real POS solution, then people were shimming them, but they were basically poorly setup and people were blowing them up and having various issues. Like I said, I hope they fixed these problems by now. Valve cover gaskets dont really need to be replaced, but when money is no object... shiny new plastic is nice, same with the bolts, overkill. Thermostat is up to you, is it cold as heck in your area? If so stick with stock, or a 180º, I believe stock is 190 or 195. If you live in a moderate climate or whatever, 160º is great IMO, I see about 179º daily driving, but fan points is another thing as well. Rods are good to about 550 HP, getting into the 10s and they start bending. Rods were not one of the strong points of these engines, but I ran 7k RPM and nearly 500 HP just fine. I have a site somewhere that lists what is what in what year car, I will have to dig it up. Frankly though, your going way overkill here, are you doing 4 bolt main or is this a Vette block? I'd go overkill on that before rods, you will NOT break the rods, but high RPM will appreciate some nice stability in the bottom. Some pumps include the pickup stuff some dont, the ones that do often are not welded on and you must do this, if you just press fit them, they can fall off. STOCK PUMP IS FINE in my eyes, but whatever fits your fancy, again I think your going overkill , which is not totally a bad thing, if you have the moola. Most people seem to like the Milodan stuff, with a welded pickup. I'll try to find the LT1 parts differences site when I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted February 12, 2003 Share Posted February 12, 2003 If you haven't bought the clutch already, consider an LT4 clutch/PP setup, or just stock LT1 stuff, or stock replacement like Luk which is supposedly better than stock. A plain jane clutch held my HP just fine, they dont suck. LS1 clutches on the other hand dont have that same reputation, but still plenty of folks use the stocker just fine, OR a reconditioned one for not much dough which can be plated with whatever materials you request by sending in your unit to be repadded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted February 13, 2003 Author Share Posted February 13, 2003 Yeah I already bought the Center Force clutch set. I haven't heard of any problems with them? As for overkill...I don't think it hurts to put in stronger parts even if they are not needed. If I am not satisfied with the power of my car I will change some components(cam and springs) next winter when the car is in storage. I am just trying to get as many quality parts now as I can. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 To a point, especially if your going to pump out more power later. Sometimes stronger means heavier though too, but if your going for more later, now is the time, true. This is the page I was thinking of, not sure how much it would help. http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm DONT FORGET CamaroZ28.com if you need answers that is the place to be, or Jason Cromer in FLA, he knows his parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted February 14, 2003 Author Share Posted February 14, 2003 Ok well I went and talked to my machinist tonight and he said there is no point for me to use floating pins because I dont need it. So I am going with the PM rods and I am going to use KB Hypers with 10.9:1 compression. $185 for balancing complete rotating assembly $90 to turn the crank $48 to press in the pins to the rods Does this sound like a fair price? I don't really care if it is cause they are the best machine shop in the area! Quality not Cost in this case! When I was in there talking to the owner he asked me if I lived near by because he wanted to know if I wanted a job there! It was pretty cool! But since I currently live about 35 miles away he said he was looking for someone local. That's ok though cause I cant afford to move right now! Too many car parts to buy! O well! Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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