Guest ON3GO Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 Ok motor will be back from the machine shop next week so im getting everything prepared to go back in and also doing little jobs here and there. 1st the questions.. i ported my N42 intake manifolds runners, and i then made them as smooth as i could get it. now to make the smoother just like glass then what sand paper (or type) should i start off with and then end up using? also since i ported the intake manifold, and all those little shavings are in the manifold.. what would be the best way to clean it out? its a brand new motor so i dont want to take chances. thermostat... im looking to replace mine but im confused as to degree one i should get and also where to find the one i want. Im running a EBC now from GReddy, was wondering wheres the best place to mount the silinode? anyways heres a few pics. new fmic setup JSK rail is polished and i painted in the letters (bored) Autometer Phantom Electric Water Temp gauge (stocker wasnt working correctly no more heatsheild so im wrapping my exhaust manifold in this GReddy Profec B boost controller Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
technicalninja Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 leave intake at 80-120 grit die grinder roll finish, any smoother and it affects laminar flow. Exhaust should be as smooth as possible to reduce carbon build up. I ceramic coat exhaust ports for smoothness and less heat transfer to cooling system. This process requires the port to be 80-120 grit for the ceramic coating to have a tooth to hold too. This trick makes final exhaust port finish much easier to accomplish. I bet I save 4 or 5 hours on a head porting job this way over mirror finishing. I haven't used coating in intake as I worry about it's ability to withstand long term exposure to fuel. My next build will include ceramic coating the inside of a midly ported turbo exh manifold. The more heat energy that you can provide to the turbo the better. Be careful with the exhaust wrap. It is easy to overheat the manifold and warp it; it bends up like a banana cutting the first and the last manifold bolts off in the head. A stand off heat sheild is a better choice for the manifold. The down pipe will benefit from the wrap but don't be suprised by short service life. SS will handle this problem better than mild steel but it can be affected as well. The wrap holds heat into the part. The ceramic coating (on the inside) helps keep heat out of the part in the first place. The wrap does really work well. I once reached down and held on to a wrapped header after a 1/4 mile pass. Hot but not searing hot. Cleaning-high pressure spray, saftey clean scrubbing, hot soap and water with different brushes, bead blasting, Berrymans B12 soaking, and air blow off. Repeat in any order as much as necessary. I'd start at 180 degree Nissan Factory- not aftermarket. Some aftermarket are good but I have never found a new Nissan one bad. Higher quality build than most aftermarket. Solinoid should be mounted as close as possible to wastegate but protected from heat. Front of shock tower possibly? Later Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 im talking about the manifolds not the head.. the head was ported and polished by a race shop here in houston.. also the downpipe is SS, i just messed up the heatsheild so thats why the wrap.. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 I too have heard that the wrap isnt really the best replacement for a heatshield. Most guys say it ends up rotting out what ever they have covered? I have not used it though so no first hand experiece there.... I too have heard that you dont want a mirror like finish for the intake. Whats the expected power out of the "new" set up? Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 240zJake Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 You could get the swain coating on the outside of the headers http://www.swaintech.com/header.html Those coatings are really cool... SS i dont think the header wrap will mess up a ss header Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
technicalninja Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 Sorry- my mistake, thought you were doing the head yourself also. Same basic rules apply to intake also although it is not as critical about rough finish as the head ports as it shouldn't have any fuel running in it. Making it super smooth will not help flow and it MAY reduce it slightly. I wouldn't waste time on microfinishing it. Inside of exhaust manifold is the place to polish smooth; unluckly it is difficult to do so. The wrap will cook you manifold. It will turn gray due to the heat and become very brittle. Might last a year but I would not bet money on its life as any further mods you will do will only increase exhaust flow and heat. I've seen manifolds that were "crumbley" do to massive overheat. Sort of like a cross between cast iron and drywall board. Your talented, Make your own SS sheet metal cover leaving at least 1/4 inch between sheild and manifold and it and your manifold will last a long time. Use that wrap on down tube and first section of exh system back to below front of drivers seat. Your feet will thank you. Especially during summer. Your tubing looks really nice. Did you make it yourself? Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 Thanks guys.. guess i need to find some SS sheet metal to make myself a heat sheild. any body have any links? oh no i didnt make the piping, i got the whole setup from austin on this site. ill have to do some custom work to it to fit my bov but thats about it. well since i have some rust build up already on the exhaust manifold i plan on cleaning it up abit, would any high heat paint be okay just to coat it and stop the rust some what for now??? mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 The paints that you see for sale that are "for exhaust parts" (atleast thats what the picture shows) are a joke IMHO. They will not last and only look good for the first start up, then once that manifold gets up to operating temp, it will burn off. Yeah the can may say 1500* but it will not withstand those temps for very long if at all. Ceramic coats are really the only way to go if you want exhaust parts to last or look good. Or just make it all out of SS, atleast then it will only change color and not rust! Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 well i dont have money nor the time to do the coating, i just wanted to atleast coat it with some type of paint to just cover the parts i take the rust off of. ill wrap the downpipe and part of the exhaust with the wrap then.. i had the block painted and the head in that high temp paint and it looked and lasted awesome, but i understand the manifold is way hotter.. hmm mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted December 4, 2004 Share Posted December 4, 2004 man that was a bitch! i took u guys advice and just did the downpipe, i got the once inch one so it was a pain (was gonna do the manifold so thats why the once inch).. it was so cold outside last night so i wrapped the downpipe in my room.. oh well it will get the job done.. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted December 4, 2004 Share Posted December 4, 2004 I've had the wrap on two sets of headers. Both turned to swiss cheese in about two years. Numerous leaks, metal got very brittle and rusted like crazy. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted December 4, 2004 Share Posted December 4, 2004 Isn't heat wrap on the exhaust manifolds not a great idea? I thought that caused them to eat themselves up from the inside out? Especially with the extreme heat of the turbo exhaust? EDIT: n/m I didn't read enough to see people were already mentioning this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted December 4, 2004 Share Posted December 4, 2004 ya thats why i did the downpipe which is SS already.. will be fine and was a pain to wrap. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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