Cable Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 This is turning out to be great thread. Especially since I just won a 300zxtt R230 rear off ebay with a pair of stock halfshafts for $100. I think I did okay?? Just gotta source one more pair and then comes the fun part of installing it. What are you guys doing about the CV type driveshaft input? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 Man, that's a STEAL! But, what is shipping going to set you back, those Beasts are HEAVY?! You'll need to source a driveshaft from that model and use that section for your input, mated to the output flange for your particular engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 Man, that's a STEAL! But, what is shipping going to set you back, those Beasts are HEAVY?! You'll need to source a driveshaft from that model and use that section for your input, mated to the output flange for your particular engine. I was going to do that, but when we got to looking at it my driveshaft guy noticed that the CV joint allows some amount of plunge (the driveshaft can move in and out of the CV). We decided not to go with that, since the shaft would have had plunge at both ends, meaning that the shaft would be able to float fore and aft about an inch, which is bad for balance and vibration in general. I had an adapter made to convert the six bolt flange to a four bolt. I'll take a couple of pics later. I think somebody mentioned at some point that the q45 r200's four bolt input flange is interchangeable, but I have not confirmed this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted December 19, 2004 Author Share Posted December 19, 2004 For a driveshaft flange for the R230, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93863&page=2 I called and spoke with Powertrain Industries and you can buy the adaptor from him or have your local driveshaft guy buy it from him when you get your driveshaft built. maichor writes Speaking of adapting the 6 bolt R230 300ZXTT, You do not have to machine your own adapter. There is a nice one you can get from Powertrain Industries. They are used to convert to a one-piece driveshaft, (the ZX had a 2-piece with weird joint in back). However, they are always backordered and takes about 1-2 months. Plan ahead and order it early in your swap. EDIT: Uses a 1310 series U-joint. Here is the contact: Part #3102-42 www.powertrainindutries.com (714) 893-4585 7532 Anthony Ave. Garden Grove, CA 92841 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 Man, that's a STEAL! But, what is shipping going to set you back, those Beasts are HEAVY?! You'll need to source a driveshaft from that model and use that section for your input, mated to the output flange for your particular engine. Lucky for me he is only a few hours away, so even if shipping is too costly, I could always just go and get it myself. I think I am off to a good start with money and doing the swap. Although I don't think I would break a R200 vlsd, its always nice to have alittle more just to be sure. For a driveshaft flange for the R230' date=' http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93863&page=2I called and spoke with Powertrain Industries and you can buy the adaptor from him or have your local driveshaft guy buy it from him when you get your driveshaft built. That is too cool. I am already using the JTR adapter for the stock R200 (one-legger) already under the car and it uses Dana 1310 u-joints too. Its too bad I'll have to have another driveshaft made, but I think it will be well worth it to have the R230 vlsd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 Pics of the R230: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 If that is the actual unit that you won off of eBay, it looks immaculate! Lucky man! I think that I would drive and get it to ensure that nothing happens to it in transit...and because I'm a cheapass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 If that is the actual unit that you won off of eBay, it looks immaculate! Lucky man! I think that I would drive and get it to ensure that nothing happens to it in transit...and because I'm a cheapass Thanks 240Z2NV. It is the actual unit that I am getting. As you might of guessed, I am very pleased on the condition. I think I might drive down there to get it, just to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted December 21, 2004 Author Share Posted December 21, 2004 With the holidays, construction project on the house and work... I have not been able to get under the car and make much progress the past couple of weeks. But I was able to cut out and finish the rear brace. I will admit that I sort of copied the brace that many have used. Block of 6061 aluminum After the first pass. After a little clean-up and holes drilled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted December 22, 2004 Share Posted December 22, 2004 Here's a pic of the adapter I had made for the input flange: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted December 22, 2004 Share Posted December 22, 2004 That's pretty cool, if you were interested in making a few more I'd be happy to buy one since I am going to need one when I do my swap. If you were to make a few more, any idea how much you'd charge? Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted December 29, 2004 Author Share Posted December 29, 2004 More progress on fitting the rear. I replaced the stock mustache bar bushings with poly bushings, welded the original holes in the MB, cleaned things up a little, cut the stock rear brace and bolted up my home made brace so I could get a better look at the fit of the R230. The mustache bar clears aluminum the brace easily. The pumpkin is very close to the frame but it actually will clear. I don't know how much movement the rear will make with a high RPM launch, but once I space the rear forward slightly and clearance that top frame rail, there should be no problem. At least it won't take a major amount of clearancing. The TL still looks like it will hit the CV flange. The companion flange just clears the TL. I think a gusset and some grinding will fix that problem. (Lousy picture) I am also taking a look at doing a frame out of 1" square tubing, because the roll bar tubing is just too large to clear the rear. I am wondering if 1" tubing will be strong enough to support the front of the rear. Next thing I need to do is move the fuel pump mounting bracket or trim the bracket so I can get the pinion up where it belongs. At least I am making some progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted March 2, 2005 Share Posted March 2, 2005 Hello, have you made any progress on sourcing the custom length axles needed? I emailed Ross at MMS and asked if the axles he is offering is based from a Q45 or 300zxtt vlsd since there is a width difference between the two. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted March 2, 2005 Author Share Posted March 2, 2005 I bought the axles (along with the full billet stub axle and adaptor set-up) from Ross and expect to receive them within a week or so. I addressed the axle length issue with Ross and he confirmed to me in an e-mail that the axles he is selling will work fine with the wider R230 rear. from an e-mail to me from Ross... " Jody, you'll be glad to know we've now confirmed our present R230 axle center sections will definitely work with you R230 mounted location. Just confirmed min/max travel with the setups:) " I'll defenitely post pictures when I get them... and when they are installed. Jody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maichor Posted March 2, 2005 Share Posted March 2, 2005 FYI I had my axles custom made from Moser Engineering. I measured and orderd. I had them made for the Q45 diff and they worked fine switching to the R230. The 230 is maybe 3/8" wider than the 200 if even that much.(Edit: read Q45 r200 since the S13/S14 R200 is smaller still). Hopefully Ross has built in more than 3/16" of play in the axles. If so, you are good to go with his. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted March 2, 2005 Share Posted March 2, 2005 We've got all the play you need and then some:) The R&D time was woth it and we've got it worked out for max compression (can't really get lower than Rick Bowers killer Z!) and extension with both setups, may as well make it fit all! Some are using the narrower Q45 and some the wider.....either diff in EITHER location, ie. centered in the tunnel OR symmetric with the old mustache bar bolts is 100% compatible with our adaptors and axles. Can't wait to get pics online of Rick's setup mocked up, the billet end adaptors with the CV shafts and R230 all preassembled are second to none in strength and quality. It was great to get Scotties strong commendations on the items directly at Z Fest let alone all others I've enjoyed meeting so far and more to come later this week! FWIW, we've also had some axles gundrilled just for fun as some won't need the massive strength of the solid pieces ;^) Will weigh items on our return when we finish all this fun with these incredibly skilled and advanced Z wizards here in Florida! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted March 2, 2005 Share Posted March 2, 2005 We've got all the play you need and then some:) The R&D time was woth it and we've got it worked out for max compression (can't really get lower than Rick Bowers killer Z!) and extension with both setups' date=' may as well make it fit all! Some are using the narrower Q45 and some the wider.....either diff in EITHER location, ie. centered in the tunnel OR symmetric with the old mustache bar bolts is 100% compatible with our adaptors and axles. Can't wait to get pics online of Rick's setup mocked up, the billet end adaptors with the CV shafts and R230 all preassembled are second to none in strength and quality. It was great to get Scotties strong commendations on the items directly at Z Fest let alone all others I've enjoyed meeting so far and more to come later this week! FWIW, we've also had some axles gundrilled just for fun as some won't need the massive strength of the solid pieces ;^) Will weigh items on our return when we finish all this fun with these incredibly skilled and advanced Z wizards here in Florida![/quote'] Sounds great - I'm assuming you are saying that no modifications were required to the original design, right? Anxiously awaiting mine... Just curious - what is the advantage to gundrilling the axles? I can't imagine that you would save much weight, and the effects on rotational intertia would be even more negligible. (?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted March 2, 2005 Share Posted March 2, 2005 Personally I think I'll need the solid type axles considering I'll have the brute torque of a Big Block 454 pushing on one side of the them and the resistantance of Hoosier QT slicks on the other side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 Sounds great ..no modifications ..to the original design' date=' right?Anxiously awaiting mine... ....what is the advantage to gundrilling the axles? I can't imagine that you would save much weight, and the effects on rotational intertia would be even more negligible. (?)[/quote'] Correct - no change Tim Nailed correctly first time, measure 20.. x's machine once ;^) A lot of credit goes to Mark Icard who's long proven the geometry we've based our setup and design basics on. Gundrilling's for the user that wants all advantages (albeit one using a hefty diff already), and is not intending to launch to the moon like some of these 550+rwtq rides! Some pics of Rick's setup as part of our R&D yesterday posted here within '2005 Mar Rick Bowers...' event in link below, http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/mm_gallery.php Ross (I'd like to see a diff dyno session with an R230 vs. a quaife R200... ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 Gundrilling's for the user that wants all advantages (albeit one using a hefty diff already), and is not intending to launch to the moon like some of these 550+rwtq rides! Still not sure what the advantages are? Assuming that the gundrill happens at the axis of rotation, the effect on rotational interia would have to be about equivalent to leaving off a balancing weight (how much material are you removing?). Am I missing something? (Sorry - I just like to be a pain in the ***, and haven't posted in a while ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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