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HybridZ

early 260/LT-1/T-5 progress/reflections


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I wanted fuel injection and manual in this swap, my first was a very warm carbed 355 w/700R4, which I drove daily for 5 years.

 

IF you need airconditioning and an LT-1...like here in SE Texas, then Street and Performance in Mena AR is the only game in town. Big Phil learned the hard way, as I did. Have long bar shortened to 7" by them and use that on compressor, and 9" on alternator. It relocates coil too and they sell that "kit" as well. Then there is the pulley spacer "kit" for LT-1 from an F Body. Expect a premium of about $1300 unless you get crazy in the catalog.

 

Then there is the A/C itself....Hot Rod Air or one like it has the whole deal from around $1100. Of course the fuel injection didn't change that upwards.

 

So....if a car here is not airconditioned in this climate it is better to walk.

 

The injection related time and expense over a great carb setup like my last HybridZ is a subjective discussion. I like turning key on and forgetting about various little things like how many times to pump cold/warm/hot...and have all but forgotten what a choke is. Economy? Well if I drive the car some 68 million miles I may break even with fuel saved/money spent. Some of the expense was erring on caution side...you know...put new distributor in while easy to get to...oh...remove water pump first so may as well get one of those...and LT-1 parts like this are way more $ then the 1st generation stuff. Harness....well you CAN do your own IF you can get all the CORRECT info and just take your time studying/executing the wiring deletes and jumpers. Oh, don't forget about VATS....does it not start? or start and shut off? after 10 seconds or 30 seconds?...does it control fuel pump relay or enable injector signal? Of course you don't have to move hood latch with LT-1, and that saves you a couple hours... you can't figure out pin 25 on red connector in that short a time.The LT-1 will probably be down a bit on total horsepower from my last one...but driveability and response should even the score in street driving. Applicable to carbed but essential to LT-1/LS-1 donor: Get a running and complete engine/transmission combination, get all the wiring, all the stuff. A few extra bucks up front can save major problems and expenses.

 

Common to carbed and injected JTR swaps...the van radiator suggested is fine, and inexpensive, but must be lowered a 1/2" or more to clear cap. The Taurus 2 speed fan is a gonzo piece and cheap enough...but figure out a way to control both speeds automatically and with A/C....can't have juice to both low and high speed at same time.

 

I used the "weak" WC T-5 because I am not gonna run big sticky tires. I like the light weight/small size/shifter right location/stock speedo combination. The 89 IROC 700R4 shifted plenty hard at WOT as advised it would by Darryl Young and he suggested no shift kit but did sell me a nifty inexpensive kit to engage lockup in 4th and uses no computer. But I did miss catching the right gear to listen to pipes...so in goes the T-5. This site put me on to the great solution of Ford pickup master cylinder and hose for the stock slave. Slick. A good example of a better mousetrap than the JTR book gives.

 

Why the update? Well, I have been a member for a number of years and just finished a search here. I realized that there was about an equal mix of good solid info and incorrect or incomplete info. No matter what swap you are contemplating with a Z it is essential to read up on it before buying first part or tool. The JTR book is a good start, particularly with carbed Chev engine.

The TPI book is NOT very good for TPI, poor for LT-1, but it is information and should be looked at. They do have some parts that fix integration problems. This site is good if searched and thoroughly so. Zcar is a better source for info on Z related wiring etc and other information not concerning swaps. Camaro.com and others like it are great sources for engine info.

 

Anyway I am firing the thing up tomorrow....sound confident? I am because I have had 3 no starts already and believe I have caught last of my mistakes.

As soon as it crackles for a few seconds it is off to paint, back for interior which is already dyed, new rugs, all the insulation etc to make my Miata seats a home. Do us all a favor and take Z related questions to Zcar.com and encourage those completing/completed swaps to post here. I have noticed a distinct drop in number of swap related questions and answers. I might be wrong or just get frustrated at times, but it seems posts are becoming repetitive and often not taken to closure when new or difficult. JTR is only a source of part of the good info....you are the rest...like Big Phil, Tim240Z and many others that materially aided in my swap(s).

 

Thanks for all the bandwidth....John

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Get a running and complete engine/transmission combination' date=' get all the wiring, all the stuff. A few extra bucks up front can save major problems and expenses.

...John[/quote']

 

Having done both a tpi and LT1 swap I can attest that this is the single best piece of advice.

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Flibouy,

Thanks for all the info and encouragement. I'm doing the exact setup you are even to the point of using a WC T-5 although I'll be running only the alternator. I wish I'd found the info about the Ford truck master before I bought the Wilwood unit but It'll still work.

 

Tim,

So now what are you up to? I thought you were spending your time on the Opel GT swap.

BTW: How is that going, did you finally decide to go with the Ford 2.3 Turbo engine?

 

Wheelman

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John,

 

Glad to hear you are ready to fire; my engine is still in the building stage. I have been scratching my head over the AC question, and hoping to hear a good solution..........looks like I'll be calling S&P.

 

What was the deal on the radiator? I just bought the one from JTR that everyone seems to like; is this the one you're talking about?

 

I would really like some pics of your setup if you have the time. Looks like I'll be test fitting in about 60 days, and I've got the same early 260 and LT1 that you have......although I'm staying with the 4L60e.

 

Good luck; I hope it fires on the first crank!!

 

Thanks

 

Bill

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I appreciate the response so far.

 

Bill et al, this should help: Street and Performance 2005 catalog page 52-53 #3 on part 0000000, also the coil bracket near bottom of list is needed, plus....here goes more $... add the EGR blockoff shown. Ebay has blockoffs too, but S&P is really pretty....where nobody can see it. I bought the alternator and compressor from them as price was competitive for one stop convenience. The bar lengths they can do before shipping IF you get their attention the first time....otherwise they will do it on your second call. Note: for those who do not research and have a non-LT-1....well....find out for yourself that these do not fit.

 

Bill, I sent pictures as you requested in your e-mail. Notice the removed oil cooler and knock sensor location. The small alternator is necessary. My last swap was a semi JTR in that engine was about an inch forward, but these mounts seem they would be OK in either Scarab or JTR or in between. I got the natural finish which seems to fit with intake etc appearance, edges seemed a little sharp. I am a driver not a polisher.

 

The radiator is the JTR available and recommended Moline.

 

John

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Tim' date='

So now what are you up to? I thought you were spending your time on the Opel GT swap.

BTW: How is that going, did you finally decide to go with the Ford 2.3 Turbo engine?

 

Wheelman[/quote']

 

GT is in the shop getting body and paint done....visited it yesterday....yes, I have decided on the 2.3T :-D

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uh...well...errr no sorta no

seems the harness has to have the oil sensor....surprise Street and Performance is shipping a tee so I can use Datsun and GM senders, I called first before trying. Oh well...did get driveshaft cut, balanced and back in an hour or so...19" center to center @ $146=$7.68 an inch, had new machined yoke and new universal too...so a bargain.

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Bummer.......are you using the S&P harness or one from the original car?

 

Oh, in looking at your engine pix, it looks like you got the 12 o'clock alternator instead of the 2 o'clock?? Am I right, or just looking at it wrong? Did you get the 105 amp or the 140?

 

Let me know when you fire it up, and how she sounds.

 

Bill

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I should have mentioned that I finally went to a Street&Performance harness after having difficulty with my modified original. I regret spending the money. They are about a $100 over others and harness was very generic, I was specific about manual/no emissions etc but got a one size fits all that actually will have taken about as much time that modifiying original did. No excuse and the $100 was rationized at sale by the "customer support". The original went well but I ended up with couple bad connectors and a main plug that I buggered up. It is difficult to get a solid base for harness mod...and still use O2/MAF sensors etc. Wire ends are a problem as GM didn't stock/sell and I never did find a source for them elsewhere.. The VATS is a sticky issue because nobody seems to have all the info in one place...I had bought a bypass ....but of course it was also on the new harness. I have seen the Painless harness and it is at LEAST as good. My suggestion is to find source online to modify your original or do it yourself after satisfied you have answers. The VATS bypass is an E-bay $26 part. John

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The route I went, and I am very happy that I didn't give up and get a harness, was to sit down with the Service Manual and trace each and every wire/circuit from the PCM. I also pulled every oem datsun wire out of the can and rewired it from scratch. This took a lot of time, but it gave me an intimate knowledge of the wiring and systems that definitely helps down the road.....this way costs very little....the most expensive part being the Factory Service manual...at about $100....

 

Tim

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