Strong rear-end components?

[Guest NISMOTom]

Long time Z-fan, first-time poster.

 

I've decided to build a HybridZ and am in the planning stages.

Essentially I will have an LS1 powered 240/60/80Z (I'm still looking for a donor car at the moment.)

 

I've decided on an R200 rear-end with a Quaife LSD.

 

My main issue is ensuring that I have strong enough halfshafts/CVs/Hubs for the intended purpose - which is full-out fun at open-track days.

 

I'm looking at several options - but since I'm new to this whole "hybrid Z" world I'm not sure what is best and the search function only helps so much.

 

Is there a general consensus on which components to use to handle 400+ HP?

 

The 280ZXT CV conversion package from Modern Motorsports looks like an interesting product, but I'm not 100% sure of what the package entails.

 

Furthermore, if I did use this setup - what are the repercussions regarding wheel hubs and brakes? I'm semi-interested in the Road Race Strut Assemblies from Arizona Z-car since it provides a stout wheel hub, Willwood calipers and slotted discs, coilovers, camber plate, Chrome-Moly A-arms, and a 5x4.5 bolt pattern. It appears to be a well-rounded assembly that leaves out much of the guesswork and provides a good amount of strength. However - if this won't bolt up to the 280ZXT packages components, it is pretty useless to me.

 

Essentially I realize what I need to do for the unibody, engine, transmission, driveshaft, and even the rear-end....

But from the Differential to the wheels I'm confused as heck....

 

Thanks for your patience with a newb.

[cyrus]

1. R200 = strong

2. axles can be made strong

3. stub axles are never strong for road racing...

[CruxGNZ]

Welcome Tom!

 

3. stub axles are never strong for road racing...

But these, quite well, may be:

Click here

 

!M!

[Guest NISMOTom]

1. R200 = strong

2. axles can be made strong

3. stub axles are never strong for road racing...

Keeping this in mind then - what do you suggest?

 

Mat - Thanks for the welcome - I imagine I'll become a much more regular poster once I get this out of planning and in the workshop. From my two days worth of searches I've already learned quite a lot... this place is a wealth of information!

 

Also to the Mods - I'm not sure if this is the 100% correct forum for this - but I thought so because I'm questioning more of the "Will the stub-axles connect to certain hubs/brake kits?" "Is there another setup I should be thinking about with LS1 power figures (400+HP)? What CVs or adaptors should I be using?" which seem to be smack dab in the middle of a wheels/brakes issue and a driveline component issue.

[johnc]

3. stub axles are never strong for road racing

 

Huh? I road raced and autocrossed for years and years on 240 and 280Z stub axles and only had two fail. As with ANY component on a car you track, they must be inspeced at least every six months for cracks and fatigue. There's no part built by anyone that doesn't require regular inspection if you race your car.

 

FYI... Stub axles rarely (if ever) fail from engine torque when road racing. They fail from the lateral loads imposed by bigger wheels and stickier tires. The most common failure mode is separation of the wheel flange from the stub axle itself at the factory fusion weld.

[Doug71zt]

I think that you won't be happy with the 280ZX CV shafts. Z31 turbo (first generation 300zx) CV shafts are much heavier. Modern Motorsports has the companion adapters for them. I would also go with 280Z stub axles, as the splines are a bit beefier. R200 rears are heavy enough that I don't think you will have any problems.

Might be better for you to look for a 280Z as the base for you project, as they have a bit stronger structure and the R200 mounting is already there.

 

Doug

[Scottie-GNZ]

I think that you won't be happy with the 280ZX CV shafts.

Is that a typo? I agree with John C on the stubs. I would go with the 280ZXT CVs and 280Z stubs. The stubs will be the weak point in such a setup but I believe there is more chance of breaking them if you were shocking them with a drag race launch on slicks and a manual tranny. As for which car to get, tough decision. I agree the 280Z gets you the stubs and a stiffer stock chassis but a 240Z is lighter, a racer's friend and your driveline will love you for it. 400hp in any road racing Z wil require reinforcement so I think the 280Z's advantage is negated. Just my $.02.

[cyrus]

I could cry...

 

Billet 4340 280Z Stub Axles!

$695.00US

 

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=62

 

Sounds SPECTACULAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I may just do this with a r200 and good axles!!!

[Doug71zt]

Scottie - My opinion on the CV shafts was based on the hp that Tom intends to run.

I haven't heard of a failure using Z31 turbo shafts, but I have heard of failures running the 280zx shaft.To my eye, Birfield joints are stronger than Tripod joints.

Also, where I am, 280zx shafts are rare while Z31 shafts are cheap as chips ($100 CDN per set).

The Z31 shafts are longer in comparison to the 280zx shafts, they clear swaybar endlinks a little better and operate at a smaller angle, due to the shaft length. I'm sure that has a positive effect on durability, how much I'm not sure.

If you are starting from scratch, why not go with the strongest components that you can economically install?

As for the 240/280 question, I agree that there are advantages/disadvantages to either. If you are going racing, you will likely ditch the bumpers/struts and some of the other junk that makes the later cars heavier.

 

Tom - Any of the CV shaft set-ups will work with most any rear suspension configurations that are out there. The only variable is the stub axle spline pattern, which differs between 240/260 and 280Z.

 

Good luck and happy building

 

Doug