violacleff Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 I finally wired the car and got power to the ECU and both red and green lights are on. The question is, are both of these lights supposed to be on? And am I supposed to run a special relay so that the ECU is not on when the car is not on? As of now the ecu lights up as soon as the battery is connected. I'm reading the manual that says one flash from both lights means a afaulty CAS, but its not flashing. It just remains on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 Hmm.. I'm not postive but that does not sound right to me. You don't need any kind of relay to power the ecu. Although it does not sound right I am more curious what else it does.. What does it do if you try to start it? Does the fuel pump run? Do you have spark? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 No, I don't think they are suposed to be on unless the key is turned from the off position. Any key posision from off, they come on, and after start up they should go off iirc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
violacleff Posted January 1, 2005 Author Share Posted January 1, 2005 Yes it does have spark and fuel.when I try to start it the engine goes "put put.......put put" and I can smell some exhaust. I thought at first it was the injectors keeping it from firing, so I'm buying stock injectors to use until l can afford a stand alone. I just didn't think I was supposed to be seeing the ecu lights when the car was off. Furthermore only the green light should be on correct? I have green and red showing at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 Well if you have spark and fuel, and you have the engine even slightly trying to "kick" when you start it then I would bet that if you got the proper injectors that it would run. Are you still gonna go with a Haltech? Did you give any thought about re-chipping the z31 ecu? As for the lights being on, it does sound fishy.. I got the following from a Post that Drax made a while back:... The wires are as follows: Plug 1= BR 12v power source. Positive G 12v power source. Positive Plug 2=Y start signal (+) GL ground for inhibitor switch YW speed sensor (not necessary) Y A/C signal (+) YW coil (-) (must use ignitor) B fuel pump ground if using modulator Plug 3=LR fuel pump relay G ignition .signal (+) for air regulator W not used Y not used BW ignition signal (+) What did you do with the BW + ignition signal? I'm starting to think that maybe you ran straight battery power to it causing the lights to stay on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 Furthermore only the green light should be on correct? I have green and red showing at the same time. I don't think so. As far as I know (and it does sound odd I admit..) BOTH lights come on when power is put to the ECU. They just use red/green so you can tell which code it's giving while in code reading mode.. (One red flash/blink= 10, 1 green flash = 1. IE; red red.... green green green.. would be code 23.) otherwise, they just stay on. Do you now how to check the codes? Could be evrything is wired fine, but there's a loose conection/missing sensor somwhere.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
violacleff Posted January 2, 2005 Author Share Posted January 2, 2005 I did contact Bernard about the chip but he only works with 370's and ford type injectors 440's. I have RC500's, which by his email he sounded like he didn't want to go through the hassle of programming for. He said it would be a hassle figuring out other injectors. Otherwise I would have gone that route (assuming I ever got the car wired correctly). The wires going straight to the power are Pin #2,27,35, and 34. Pin 34 has a fuse before the battery. Is there another way I'm supposed to wire those? Hey I'm just thinking. When we tried to start the car, we had not yet hooked up the CHTS. I had just bought the harness from Nissan but we hadn't wired it yet and it was getting late. Might that be causing a warning signal? Also If stick the stock injectors in and am running a T4, would I have enough fuel to be safe as long as I keep the boost at stock level? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
violacleff Posted January 6, 2005 Author Share Posted January 6, 2005 Ok, I put in the stock injectors, car makes a bunch of popping and clicking noises but doesn't start. I checked each seperate cylinder and the coil for spark and everything's good there. I'm getting 45 psi fuel reading. Here's what I noticed, When I crank the car, the ECU lights turn off. I've still yet to figure out how to wire it properly so that the lights are not on when the car is off and today I find that the lights go off when the car is turned on. Go figure. This really sucks. I was sure the car was gonna start tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted January 6, 2005 Share Posted January 6, 2005 Ok, this may be a stupid question but.. Did you have anything apart on the engine itself? camshaft? timing chain? distributor? did you adjust valves? How's your engine compression? What about firing order? Assuming that's all good all I can suggest is to go through your wiring all over again and try to figure out where you went wrong. Check the wires going to the z31maf and make sure your z31 CAS is installed properly and not upside down or something. Also the z31maf has a proper direction, you can tell by looking at the back, there is a arrow and the word "flow" Sorry, I'm not trying to sound like a ass but I'm pointing out the obvious stuff in case the obvious was overlooked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
violacleff Posted January 6, 2005 Author Share Posted January 6, 2005 Thanks for the reply. The obvious stuff is what I'm looking for Grayzee. I'm still quite the novice. I'm 100% sure I didn't install the CAS upside down as I was conscious of that the whole time. I rechecked the firing order twice. All the wire were pulled apart and retraced and were as I posted them in the turbo section I believe. I will however recheck the MAF. What about the ECU turning off as I try and start the car? Is this a major clue? I still have yet to figure why it is on (both lights) when the car is on. I'm sure its a mistake in the wiring but I'm not sure as to what's the proper way at this point. I'm also curious as to whether or not I put a bad CAS in the dizzy or the wrong one. Everything else engine wise is together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
violacleff Posted January 8, 2005 Author Share Posted January 8, 2005 just to make sure, am I supposed to be using the firing order from the Z31 or the 83 dizzy? Are they different? I checked the MAF and it was on correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 I say the ECU turning off when you try to start the car is the problem. From acc through start postitions (on the key) I think there should be power to the ECU, and I'm 99% sure BOTH lights should be on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
violacleff Posted January 8, 2005 Author Share Posted January 8, 2005 I figured that was the problem (or at least one of them). Its figuring out why thats the real problem. This project has gone from fun to way beyond frustrating. Well end of Jan=tax return=haltech=over the phone support. At least I got something to look forward to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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