innerware Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 O.k. so I worked with fl327 today and didn't get as much done as hoped but got the front suspension done and the rear drum cylinders replaced, drums and shoes. Apon putting everything back together we bled the brakes and still have a squishy pedal. Oh, and we also replaced the front lines with braided steel. We got the parking brake to work but it hasn't fully adjusted or something. It works but I have to pull it higher than I normally did. We are thinking that we need to bleed more, but opinions are definately welcome. I was able to drive home and the front suspension feels great but the brake pedal is squishy at first push but gets firmer after 2nd etc. If I don't brake for 5-10 sec's it will be squishy again. Does this sound like air or moisture in the line? It did rain on us for a little bit. Thanks again all, we will finish the rear suspension Thursday (hopefully the penatrating oil has worked on the halfshaft bolts. They wouldn't budge) And if anyone suggests a tip or trick I will try it then. Thanks again fl327. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EZ-E Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Sounds like you could have air still in your lines, you might also want to make sure that your booster is in good shape as well. Check for leaks. Also remember when bleeding start furthest from the MC and move up, ie RR, LR, RF and finally LF. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Also remember when bleeding start furthest from the MC and move up, ie RR, LR, RF and finally LF. Actually, by line length, the LR is furthest away from the master cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkube Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Since you hve replaced the flex lines, also check that these lines are tightened sufficiently. What can happen is the flaring of the new flex line is not properly seated onto the steel line fitting, resulting in a "Bleed down". You may not notice fluid leaking at the connection, but look very closely and you might notice the line looks "wet" all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerware Posted January 5, 2005 Author Share Posted January 5, 2005 Thanks, initially there was a small leak at those lines. We went over them a few times slightly tightening them untill no further wetness or leak was noticed. Everything appears to be dry. I think there might be moisture in the lines as it rained on us before we could move the parts under the garage door. I will run fresh fluid through the lines as stated before and that is what we did too. But fresh fluid and more time bleeding should hopefully help. It does stop me but isn't nearly what I would consider great or as good as before. Thanks for the tips so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHO-Z Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 I went through a similar problem a while back after putting coilovers on. I bleed the lines like I have done over the years and still had spongy brakes. I couldn’t figure it out. Then as a last resort I tried bleeding the master cylinder bleeds. Problems solved. I had never had to bleed a master cylinder before even with the system drained completely. You might also look at your rear brake adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerware Posted January 6, 2005 Author Share Posted January 6, 2005 Thanks I'll try the master and bleed that. The rear brakes though, don't they adjust themselves with the hand brake? I thought if you could get good hand brake adjustment the rears were good. My hand brake lever is now like it used to be after fussing with it a little but I still have spongy brakes. Is there a better way to adjust the rear drums? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted January 6, 2005 Share Posted January 6, 2005 I had the exact same problem as you, but I solved it with new SS brake lines. Did you replace the rear brake lines too? As for adjusting, there is a small hole on the face of the drum. Rotate it so the hole is over the left-bottom section and look around with a flash light until you see a cylinder with notches. Get a screw driver and move the adjuster until the wheels stop spinning freely, but you can still move them by hand. This will also make your parking brake handle not go back as far because it needs less distance to expand to the drum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerware Posted January 6, 2005 Author Share Posted January 6, 2005 Thanks metro, awesome advice. I was wondering what the hole was for. I will try that tomorrow. And I just replaced the front lines not the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerware Posted January 7, 2005 Author Share Posted January 7, 2005 All fixed. We re-bled the rear brakes a ton. Also got the rear suspension in. It is truely amazing how much fun the car is with new springs and struts tokico blues with 1" lowering springs). With the car 1" lower it looks a bit better, harder to get out of though, but corners so nice. Almost no body roll at all and the squat is way less when launching. With the brakes bled and the front stainless lines on it brakes real well too. Now I can't wait to get new wheels for it so I can fit the 4x4 brakes up front. fl327 recomends 15 x 7's front and back. I agree, he has 15 x 7's up front and 15 x 8's in back and it looks awesome. Thought I would share my overwhelming joy with you all. Oh, and when poping out the rear suspension, it hurts real bad when the unit swings out and slams into your knee. fl327 got a good laugh. And thanks to all that have supported me on everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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