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cutting firewall


GrayZee

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I have a question for you guys, but first I will give you some background info...

I recently had some problems with my engine swap (VG30et into a Pathfinder) turns out that the turbo upper intake manifold rests too far back and would hit the firewall long before it could be bolted on. There are two solutions to this problem. One is to use a later model Pathfinder manifold. (mine a is a throttle-body injector) The other solution is to custom make a new manifold. I decided to go with the custom manifold because it will be cheaper and I can relocate the TB to the passenger side and simplify intercooler plumbing.

Whenever people ask me how the swap is doing I tell them this latest development. Before I am able to explain how I will solve the problem, the response I get EVERYTIME is.. "so I guess that means that you are going to cut the firewall" It makes me feel like saying.. "no thanks, I lost my butcher's licence back in the 80's"

 

I have never thought that cutting a firewall has EVER been a acceptable way of doing a engine swap. I like all of my dash components to work afterwards (especially the heater/defroster!) The only acception might be is if you are building a race car that has lots of re-inforcing and is not intended for use on a public road.

 

Do you guys share the same opinion?

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I agree.. I cut a 'relief hole' in the firewall of my 85 RX7 to fit the chevy dizzy.. and I regreted it. Looked like a$$. Is it possible to maybe move the whole motor forward an inch or two? (plates or something on the engin mounts) although that would make more work as you have a trany/transfer case/driveshaft to move forward to then.. crap..

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Guest Magnum Rockwilder

If you do it right, it's fine.

 

You have to totally strip the inner firewall of all accessories, noting possible fitment problems, cut the necessary hole, weld in new metal, and reinstall the dash and all accessories, making any necessary mods to get everything to fit.

 

Or you can do it redneck style and peek under the dash to see if there are any obvious problems, then cross your fingers and start swinging the sledge.

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If you do it right' date=' it's fine.

 

You have to totally strip the inner firewall of all accessories, noting possible fitment problems, cut the necessary hole, weld in new metal, and reinstall the dash and all accessories, making any necessary mods to get everything to fit.

 

Or you can do it redneck style and peek under the dash to see if there are any obvious problems, then cross your fingers and start swinging the sledge.[/quote']

 

 

True, there are cases where it can be done right. In this case I think it would be far easier to buy a 90's Pathfinder intake including the distributor, wires and everything needed to put a proper intake on than it would be for the trouble of stripping the inner firewall. Last summer I had a 240 tank given to me and decided to make a custom flange on top to do a internal fuel pump. After all the work was done I discovered that a 240 tank will not fit in a 280 (even a early 280) So rather than go back to square one, I cut the decklid floor to make it fit. I took it to my autobody man to make sure a good professional patch job was done, complete with a access port to get at the pump. I still have room for the spare, but now it has to be a collapsable style. I didn't like the idea of cutting it much and there still is a part of me that regrets cutting it though, even though it's a part of the car that is never really looked at. I guess it's ok to cut as long as it's done right and it is reserved as a LAST RESORT!

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