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Finally got the car started!!! But then it wouldn't turn off


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Well its exciting to hear the car run after a year and a half of not running. However I've yet to figure out how to wire the ECU so that its only on when the car is in start position and now it seems that something in the ignition isn't right because the car wouldn't turn off by key, I had to disconnect the battery. Could these two problems be related? Is there a thousand different reasons why the car woulnd'nt cut off when I turned the key when it was in the off position? Or are there a few obvious reasons that someone may be able to point out?

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Guest MaXbOOst

im thinking you got the wire thats supposed to be ACC+ hooked up to a constant 12+ volts...... that should be the gremlin ,considiring the ECU controls ignition and fuel relays....

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Guest MaXbOOst

pretty much the wire , that kicks on your stereo or allows you windows to roll up or down without turning on the car when you turn the key over one or two clicks , before you turn the key all the way into " start "

 

and that wire stays positive when the car is running.

and when you turn the car off , that power to that wire dies , and your ECU shuts off, hence the car shutting off - but yours isnt.

 

so if you have 12+ going to the wire thats supposed to be ACC+

te car wont shut off until like you said ,until the battery cable is removed

 

so fix that one wire , and youll be set :)

 

 

only 19 and im an electronics whiz ....LoL

i rewired my Z , wasnt easy , so im glad to hear another fellow Zer beat the wiring feat

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It's likely that the previous suggestions are correct. The ignition switch plug has six terminals and one of them is not used. So there are a total of 5 wires..

 

Batt: has 12v+ all the time (gets power straight from battery and is the power source of all the other wires)

 

Acc: Power flows out the Acc wire ONLY when the ignition switch is in the Acc or ON position.

 

IGN: Power flows out the IGN wire ONLY when the ignition switch is in the ON or Start position.

 

Start: Power flows to the start wire only in start position.

 

Run: Works the same as the Start wire but is only used in older Z's with point style ignitions (otherwise it is not used)

 

 

 

 

I can point out another less likely but still possible problem. What year of Z do you have? If it is a older one with a external voltage regulator and you have installed the later model 280zx alternator with internal style regulator then this could be your problem. I had my 240z that did not want to turn off as well when I put in a newer 280z alternator. Never did look into it too deep but I guess there is something in the wiring that allows it to keep running. I kept the newer alternator but simply unplugged the external regulator and everything was fine after that.

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Thanks for the replies. Here's my update. The car wouldn't start when I ran power to the ACC though the lights were on only when the start position was on which was what I wanted. However, the fuel pump would not turn on when wired the way you posted and I wouldn't get any spark. So I wired back the way I had it and it turned on. Here's another wierd thing... The car ran really rough, and wouldn't idle well. Then when I turned off the fuel pump vial the kill switch (since the car doesn't shut off when wired this way) the car ran great while the fuel pump was off!! and for a shocking long time. Also the fan wouldn't turn on when wired with the relay but works going straight to the battery. Could all this mean I have a bad relay(s)? What do you all think? BTW, we ran the wire to the ACC behind the stereo.

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I had this problem with my car, running for a long time while the fuel was shut off. Found that my injectors, well at least 4 of them were bad. For that point I would try to make sure that your settings are proper for fuel and air.

 

Maybe get a noid light or just use a multimeter and see how your injectors are firing or if they are staying open as was the case with mine.

 

With wiring I am a moron lol, so I wont suggest anything there.

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Exactly what read would I be looking for to know whether or not the injectors were staying open/firing? I'd be really pissed if these injectors are bad, I bought them from someone who said they only had 500 miles on them. Honestly all this work to get the stock/z31 system running off of someone else who had previously messed with the harness, I should have done a megasquirt, and could have just used my RC500cc injectors which are brand new.

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Guest MaXbOOst

shit ,

 

now i think you should prolly wire up a 12+ switch , that you would have to flick the switch to turn the ecu on or off VIA the ACC wire ... even tho thats kinda ghetto riggin' it.....

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