Heavy Z Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 I'm in the "dummy" category here, solid mount & mustache bar w/ urethane bushings. Sounds fine IMO. You will get more noise when there's driveline slack than a rubber mount. I've heard the FL327 story before, but he drove that car hard enough to peel back the frame rails up front (in a non-recoverable fashion) so the crossmember story doesn't seem too freakish in his case. Anyone else know of stories of bad things happening in mixed mount Zs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zyoul8r Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 All, I went to a local "Hot Rod" Shop (Mostly Corevettes) today and discussed this with the owner. He does alot of fabrication. I explained what I wanted to do, and it ends up he has some good Z experience. We put it up on the lift and looked at the underside... well to make a long story short, he would recommend some good hard rubber on both sides of the diff mount (Just like the guy at Arizona Z suggested). So I am going with that. While under there we discovered a small hole in my gas tank (that sucks) plus a leaky fuel pump (even more sucky). Well.... I am dropping the car off to him on Friday and he is going to fabricate a complete fuel system for me from tank to carb. We are still not sure if he will keep the stock tank or a new one (I asked to look when he takes it out) he is putting steel lines from back all the way to carb (600 double pumper) along with a new fuel pump and regulator. So I decided to take the easy way out and let a PRO do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted February 14, 2005 Share Posted February 14, 2005 hard vs soft mounts....hmmmmmmm...... You guys should really keep in mind that cast iron is a lot stiffer than sheet metal..... sheet metal is quite flexible. the whole damn car is made of sheet metal.... If you mount the front of the diff solidly it will simply flex the sheet metal.... I can gaurantee that the car will "tear" before the diff case or the solid mount breaks. If you want to test this I will be happy to hook a cable up to your solidly mounted diff from my 1 ton 4x4. I bet if I floor it the diff will come out with the mount and moustache bar still in one piece. as far as noise is concerned.......You are now flexing the sheet metal in the floor of the car...you can think of your car as a speaker cone...the voice coil is the is the differential and its mount...hard mounts will transfer not only more energy...but also a MUCH wider range of sounds.....Also the rubber in the mount acted as both an insulator AND a dampener....you could add your own damping materials to the inside of the car to reduce noise. A heavy but flexible weight attached to either side of the tunnel would do wonders for noise.... also try putting your original 50lb spare tire back in the well..my 1972 spare fits in with the rubber pressed against the perimeter of the bottom of the well....it is very heavy and flexible so it cuts the noise wayyyy down...it can better balance your car as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zyoul8r Posted February 16, 2005 Share Posted February 16, 2005 OK Here the the results: After removing the differential they installed the new mustache bar from Arizona Z which is actually a nice set-up. We tossed the solid front Diff mount after all and they fabricated a really nice rubber mount for me that is very very strong. They use similar set-ups on the vettes. I wil try to describe: There are two pieces of metal that are U shaped one sits inside the other insulated by motor mount type rubber the bottom U bends in at the top preventing the inner U from lifting so hard it rips the rubber. It is a very nice set-up. Next we ripped out the entire Hand Brake assy. since everytime I accelerated the drive shaft came up and hit it (resulting in major noise and clunking). As for the gas tank it had 2 holes in it. so that was repaired and we ran solid fuel line through the inside of the car using brass bulkhead connectors and installed a new fuel regulator as I was pushing 12 psi at the carb (not good) now I am at a steady 4 psi. It looks really nice having Pro's do it. I may job them out for future work. So all in all --- NO SOLID DIFF MOUNT. My ride is much better and quieter and I can throttle down with no clanking. I am VERY Happy with this set-up. I hope I can get my money back on that solid diff munt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSflyer Posted February 16, 2005 Share Posted February 16, 2005 Can you post a picture of the mount you ended up with? It sounds alot like the mount on Jeromios page... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zyoul8r Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 I will take pics when I get the chance. I had to send the car back to the shop, due to the tank still having a pinhole leak. Plus they are installing new springs for me 180 front 200 rear with the tokico shocks and some new steel braided brake line. I will try to attach pics next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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