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Pro topline heads- Know anything about them?


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The quote for modifing my heads is rather expensive, so i think i would rather just get some ali heads. They are very expensive to buy in N.Z. so i have been looking at e-bay at the following heads that should fit in my budget. I am looking for fully assembled cnc ported heads or ones that flow really well out of the box. I have it down to 3 that i can afford.

 

Dart iron eagle. Still steel but nice #'s

 

pro topline - Used to be made here which is ironic.

 

Renegade racing- I think its a copy of the pro topline.

 

I think the dart head speaks for its self. Flow almost as well as Afr heads at 1/4 the price. Anyone had and experience with the other two. I could also use some good links to purcase these from. Closer to the west coast would be better for shipping.

 

Chhers, Douglas

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Thanks Mike,

Afr's would be my first pick but the would cost about $3500 nz by the time i could get them here. The pro toplines are more in my budget. I am trying not to spend any more than $2500 nz landed, Thats about $1750 usd and im picking shipping wont be cheep. I would like to make over 450 hp at the crank.

 

Douglas

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Ok, I am pleading ignorance here But why would the heads cost so much? Is shipping that expensive to New Zealand!!!!!!!!!!! I find new sets of heads on Ebay for 1000-1500 us dollars. Dart Pro 1 with 215 runners are 1000 us dollars on Ebay.

 

What gives and if it that expensive, thank God I live here. No offense!

 

Mike

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Mike,

I really dont know what shipping will be to here but its got to be at least a couple of hundred bucks. I did find some fully assembled dart pro 1's on e-bay for $1100 us fully assembled with 2.08 intake valves. If I can get them here reasonably cheeply I would be very happy. Things are expensive here. There just is not a large market to suport large sales networks and any economy of scale. The dollar here is not worth as much as the U.S. The nz dollar is worth 70 cents us at the moment which is pretty high for us. It has been as low as 42 cents, so for us now is a good time to be buying from the U.S.

 

Douglas

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I haven't bolted mine on yet since my block is still at the machine shop, but I have a pair of the Pro Topline 220 heads. I got them on Ebay about a year ago for $1100 assembled. I'm not an expert in the field, but they appear to be very well made heads, and if the flow numbers are accurate, should easily be able to support 500 horsepower or more. An added plus, they are able to use either the pre '87 standard or post '87 centerbolt valve covers.

 

Mike

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Thanks guys,

 

I have now found dart pro 1's for $949 assembled. These are 230cc heads with 2.08 inlets. Proabable a bit large for a 350 chev but with the money I will save I can probably stroke it to 383. Need to buy pistons and bearings anyway. Anyone seen any dyno numbers from these heads?

Another thing thats concern is that Pro topline went into recevership here a while ago. I think you call it chapter 11 stateside. They may still be operating elsewhere how ever.

 

Douglas

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Thanks guys' date='

 

I have now found dart pro 1's for $949 assembled. These are 230cc heads with 2.08 inlets. Proabable a bit large for a 350 chev but with the money I will save I can probably stroke it to 383. Need to buy pistons and bearings anyway. Anyone seen any dyno numbers from these heads?

Another thing thats concern is that Pro topline went into recevership here a while ago. I think you call it chapter 11 stateside. They may still be operating elsewhere how ever.

 

Douglas[/quote']

 

230cc is HUGE for even a 400+ cid SBC. Put those on a 350 or 383 and you can expect it to be EXTREMELY lazy.

 

I'd just bit the bullet and buy the heads you really need. I'd say no more than 200cc max for a street/strip 383, 215cc for 400+ street/strip motors.

 

You should check out these guys:

 

http://www.competitionproducts.com

 

I think they sell complete Pro 1's for $1000.

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I have a set of the Protopline Vortec heads. I think they are great. They fix all the deficencies that the GM factory Vortecs have. Very thick decks that can be milled to 50cc, rocker studs already drilled, larger spring pads, cut down guides for big valve lift, improved cooling. Bought mine bare and assembled them with Manley Streetflo valves, Comp springs, and ARP rocker studs for $700. Easily outflow my factory Vortecs. The only disappointment was the castings needed a good cleaning before assembly. Machine filings throughout.

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Mike,

They were cast in New Zealand but have now gone under, Receivership, chapter 11, What ever you want to call it. I saw some heads of there's up for auction a while back and they went for $1300 nzd. I am not sure if they have moved the casting plant elsewhere in the world hence they are still avalable or if these guys are just selling the left overs. Stangly enough I e-mailed a whole bunch of links of head auctions on e-bay yesterday to my engine builder and he became rather excitable. I think he always just used a local distributer for ali heads and paid a awfull lot more for them. Anyway, He is the guy that wins races so I will let him choose the heads and how they are set up that fit in my budget. I would love some Afr's but with the price difference I can get a forged crank, which I might do. I would love to see the other side of 7000 rpm. Woo hoo.

 

Douglas

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Well I bit the bullit today and ordered some bits. The heads are AFR 195,s with angle plugs. Really liked the flow on these. They out flowed everything else I looked at by 30 cfm at .400 lift. Also ordered a 383 stroker kit that will end up giving me 10.0 - 1 comp ratio. The cam specs are 232/234 @.050, 302/300 advertized and .488 lift with 106/110 lobe sep. Crank is a scat 9000 so should be good up to 7000 rpm. Going to run a mighty demon 750 carb. This spec is very similar to the Afr ones on ryan car pages that is putting out 505 bhp. My engine builder want to play with the cam profile a bit to get it to pull hard to 6500 rpm. Might be able to even get a little more HP out of it.

Old ZROSSA wont know whats hit it.

 

Douglas

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Thanks Mike,

I am pretty pleased with my self. Over the last four years I have been living on about 1/4 of what I used to earn in the corporate world while I set up this farm we bought. Big lifestyle change.We have taken a bare 72 acre piece of land and planted 40 in olives for oil and 32 in grapes for wine. Built 5000 sq foot house and a 3500 sq foot house and a 1500 sq foot shed with another one about to start construction. I have been looking after the property on my own and going back to uni. part time to get a wine science degree during this time. Its been a real 24/7 effort but its beginning to pay off now so I think I deserve a little treat.

 

I dont know where the hell I am going to drive this beast. It has 225 wide tyres so traction is going to be challenging at all times and I think undrivable in the wet. Fortunately it doesnt rain much here. Dont really want to go much wider becuase then I will break trans' and diff's.

 

Got to go to work. Woo Hoo!

 

Douglas

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Dont really want to go much wider becuase then I will break trans' and diff's.

 

Douglas

 

If you have the R200, I doubt you'll have a problem with the diff. I have a R200 currently under my 280z and I was pushing 450-500HP with a nitrous powered 383 and never had a problem.

 

The only reason I am going with a R230 is because of the VLSD. Although it doesn't hurt to have a beefer rear diff when you are swapping in a 454 big block Chevy either.

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