PUSHER Posted February 11, 2005 Share Posted February 11, 2005 http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1142530 1993 civic ex rundown.... At first it would die while I was on the highway and bump start itself and continue to run. Now, it is completeley dead, motor will turn but i dont get any spark when I put a screwdriver in the wire and hold it near a ground. However, when I bump start it, it will run for a while and I can drive and let it idle and stuff. But it will randomly die. I have replaced, sparkplugs, distributor, rotor and cap, wires is only thing left but I doubt it will do it. Anyone have any ideas? or want to drive me home in return for a civic that kinda runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mugen405 Posted February 11, 2005 Share Posted February 11, 2005 In the order of probability... 1.) Coil 2.) Igniter 3.) Fuel Pump 4.) 02 sensor My money is on the coil. It's a common replacement item with Hondas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 240zJake Posted February 11, 2005 Share Posted February 11, 2005 Is it throwing error codes? There is a connector under the glove box next to the door, it has two plugs one with two prongs, short them then the ecu will blink the maintenance light and give you a code. My Hondas ICM went bad and would quit working when it got hot. My bet is this is your problem. But, I also had the main relay go bad but that killed my fuel pump. I did loose a ton of power at 3000 RMP once had a hunch and replaced the fuel filter in the engine compartment, turned out the previous owner never realized it needed replacing and i never thought to check it, full of dirt. Check the spark plug wires with your multi-meter and see if they are the culprit, they should read no more than 25k ohms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted February 12, 2005 Author Share Posted February 12, 2005 I replaced the distributor, so that should ex out coil and ignitor. Its not the main relay as I have tested that I am getting power to the distributor. No codes are being thrown. And do you mean spark plug wires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mugen405 Posted February 12, 2005 Share Posted February 12, 2005 Well, since you know it's a spark issue, track it down backwards. 1) Test every wire at the plug end for spark. 2) Check every distributor terminal for spark. 3) Pull the coil, and test according to the manual. (I can provide the specs if you need). 4) Check the pin voltage at the plug. 5) Check the Main Relay. It HAS to be something along the line. At some point, electricity isn't making it from point A to B. Just gotta find the break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mugen405 Posted February 12, 2005 Share Posted February 12, 2005 Also, where did you source the distributor? Was it new or used? It's very possible you replaced a bad one with a bad one, even if it was new. Coils, Ignitors, and Main relays are by far the Honda's weakest link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 240zJake Posted February 12, 2005 Share Posted February 12, 2005 And do you mean spark plug wires? Yeah I did...oops ...fixed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted February 13, 2005 Author Share Posted February 13, 2005 Alright, after replacing cap and rotor my car wont even bump start and the battery is dead so I cant really test all this fun stuff. I got the distributor from advanced auto parts. How do I check if power is comming out of the distributor? I'm getting like 9 volts to the distributor, so main relay should be fine. Guess Ill check the distributor's ignition coil and see if its in spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted February 13, 2005 Share Posted February 13, 2005 idk if u have a timing light laying around in ur garage-but wht u do, is hookup the light to the plug wires, and if u see a brite flash-then that means that u have a good spark-if it doesn't, try the same thing, but test it from the distributer cap, if that doesn't work, check the coil-find out wht works, and wht doesn't if the coil works but the cap doesn't-then it mite b a bad coil to dizzy wire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KEINoze Posted February 14, 2005 Share Posted February 14, 2005 My roommates Civic is having the exact same problem. He drove it for about 60k miles with only oil changes. Tomorrow, I will replace the following: 1) spark plugs 2) spark plug wires 3) distributor cap & rotor 4) battery cable (-) If you pull off a plug and smell gas while cranking the engine, then you are getting fuel. You can also check to see if you have spark at each cylinder by pulling the individual wires and putting the contact close to the strut tower. If you can see a spark jump, then you got juice. If the above both fails, then your timing can be WAY off. This means you gotta pull off the timing belt cover and adjust/replace that. BTW, my roommate's car didn't have any check engine codes. So I doubt it can be anything else then those above parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 240zJake Posted February 14, 2005 Share Posted February 14, 2005 Hmm, have you pulled the valve cover and made sure the timing belt is not worn and has not slipped a tooth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KEINoze Posted February 15, 2005 Share Posted February 15, 2005 I replaced all 4 of the parts I listed above. It starts fine and drove for a mile. Then it stalled and wouldn't start. This means that the alternator is at fault. Most alternators go at around 100k. It seems on schedule. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mugen405 Posted February 15, 2005 Share Posted February 15, 2005 I replaced all 4 of the parts I listed above. It starts fine and drove for a mile. Then it stalled and wouldn't start.This means that the alternator is at fault. Most alternators go at around 100k. It seems on schedule. If the battery is running dead, then yes, the alternator could be to blame. IF the car turns over but does not start, then it's not the alternator causing the 'no start' condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandonsZ Posted February 15, 2005 Share Posted February 15, 2005 I replaced the engine relay and it lasted another 3 years without stalling. If your dash gages go dark or your ABS light comes on, it's a battery connection or bad ground. Hope it helps. Replace the engine relay and the fuel pump relay while you are at it, those two things are notorious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KEINoze Posted February 16, 2005 Share Posted February 16, 2005 To followup on my roommate's car, it ended up being a faulty alternator AND a burned out ignition coil. His car has a little over 100k miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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