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fan thermostat ... best temp for fan to come on ???


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i did a search didn't find anything ... saw an earlier post ... prompted me to ask this ...

 

i'm still screwing with upgrading to the jtr radiator, high flow alum pump, taurus fan, high flow theromostat and keeping the alt on the passenger side ( neighbor is retired machinist, finally broke down and enlisted his help ).

 

the thermostat is a high flow 160 degree thermostat.

 

i have an adjustable thermostat to turn the fan on ...

 

so ... the question is ...

 

what at what temp ( i can't spell temperature, hmmmm, that does look right though, don't it ??? ) should i set the the thermostat to turn the fan on ????

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Guest Drive-ability

I guess it depends on also where your going to install the thermo sensor for the fan and the way the unit your unit reacts. IF you have a good cooling system it might run to cold at 180. The fan will stay on for normally 5 to 10 degrees. Also the engine will have a wide difference in temps depending where you place the gage sending unit. If you are using a fan switch that fits it's sensor in the radiator core fins, I would set your gage sending unit just up stream maybe around the thermostat. That way both units will be on the same page. Please correct me if I am way off here.

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9325100_0547.JPG

 

I have the 2-speed TAURUS fan with an adj. low speed relay set at 180 deg. mounted on the driver's side fender and a 210 deg high speed sensor mounted on the intake manifold where a heater hose was. These both are routed to a relay box that switches fan speed dependent on temp. I normally run at 192 deg. with just a couple of times last summer that the high speed relay kicked in during a few extreme "spanking" runs.:D

 

LARRY

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thanks ... think i will start with it at 180.

 

i looked at the adjustable set up once, when i bought it about 3 months ago ... i think the sensor gets taped to the upper radiator hose, near the radiator. is that good or bad ???

 

like Larry, i have the 2 spd taurus fan ...

 

looks like i need a second controller to spark up the 2nd speed.

 

a friend suggested, a relay and with a sw inside the car, when temps rise, turn that sw on ... run the power from the coil, so when ignition is turned off, no matter where the sw is, on or off ... no power to the sw, fan can't be left on. years back, i did that with my driving/fog lamps.

 

but i like not having to think about it ...

 

Larry, the cost of this project just went up another 30 bucks :-0

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As far as the sensor for the low speed relay goes we ran it into where the upper radiator hose connects to the radiator.

The reason I had the low and high speed controlled in a relay box is so that there is constant power to the box with the ignition on and you don't need a switch in the dash. You don't want low and high on at the same time so that you fry your fan motor. To me a dashed switched fan biggest problem is, not turning it off, but forgeting to turn it on...... Don't ask me how I know this,:bonk: Make sure you run in-line fuses. Now that should bring you up to about $31.50....:cuss:

 

LARRY

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i agree, make this as idiot proof as possible ... two sensors and two thermostatically controlled switches for low and high speed.

 

one set at 180 degrees, the other at 195.

 

again, same as when i ran the wiring for driving lights, power off the coil, so power goes dead when keys off.

 

relays and fuses are a must ... on my dune buggy, running relays with circuit breakers instead of fuses on the head lamps. resets once it cools, should it ever trip ...

 

with the fan, do you think that circuit breakers would be a better idea than fuses ??? i know a slow blow fuse, is meant to ignore an initial surge, such as a motor at start up ... no impedance ... i think a circuit breaker can handle that ... you think ????

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Guest Drive-ability

If you already have a fan you could go to the local pick a part and get a fan resistor from a older G.M. car. The resistor is used for the slower A/C fan speed and would work well. I would keep the fuse subject as simple as possible. Just use a fuse rated for the circuit. Breakers are fine for some things, windows and seats where there is a lot of abuse I don't think you really need it here.

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as i understand it, and please correct me if i'm wrong ....

 

fan resistor in line ...

 

power from the thermostatically controlled switch, the resistor is connected to the power input of the low speed input and the high speed ... juice from the thermostat flows, the low speed comes on, when thermostat kicks in the second speed, it over comes the resistance of the resistor and now the high speed comes on ???

 

is there a circuit ? i don't understand how how a single resistor will do this. i'm probably complicating this way too much ...

 

 

with a single resistor, how does the low speed shut off ?

 

i have the taurus 2 spd fan ... i was told, can't run both speeds at the same time, will burn out the motor ...

 

i already have one thermostatically controlled set up. not having to but another one would be great ...

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If you want a copy of my wiring diagram and parts needed, and can wait a few days, I'll e-mail it to you . My electrical guru is out at sea fixing a electrical problem on a ship for a few days. My set-up requires no dash switches and low and high speed is temp. controlled switched automatically from low to high and back to low speed.

 

LARRY

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Larry,

 

as i'm still trying to engineer an alternator bracket, i've gone plenty of time.

 

would appreciate that, save me time having to figure out my own ... was going to follow the schematics that came with the thermostat ...

 

one customed designed for the z, would certainly be better ...

 

thanks, wayne

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