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House of Kolors Colors online?


Guest rick458

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Guest rick458

where is a good site to see what the HOK colors look like

I dont want to shell out $35 for a chip book to shell out another 250-700

for their paint.

they may not have what I want to use

or is there an advantage to having the book of chips?

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Guest Magnum Rockwilder

You'll never see the TRUE color on a computer screen, so looking at an actual chip is best. You can go to any HOK dealer and look through a chip book. Many if not all Sherwin Williams Automotive stores are HOK dealers.

 

Here's an online chip book to peruse:

 

http://www.sarbco.com/HOK_Intro.htm

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Guest rick458

Thanks Magnum

 

that will help quite a bit

you are right about the Monitor not being totally realistic though

Also I did not know Sherwin Williams carried HOK

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Guest Magnum Rockwilder

I don't own any painting books, but I've looked at quite a few at the book store. I can't really name names, but I know there are at least 10 of them at any given Barnes & Noble or Borders. One of them that I remember is Kustom Paint by Jon Kosmoski, the founder of HOK.

 

It details multi layered paint jobs and graphics, but if my memory serves me, a lot of the techniques and equipment were outdated, so it should be taken with a grain of salt. The best way to learn is to read every book and talk to every painter you can, then weed out the BS and find your own technique. You can talk to 10 different painters and hear 11 different "truths".

 

Also, although a book can familiarize you with the basic technique and lingo, the only way to start painting is to... start painting. ;)

 

Go to a local paint store and ask for some cheap mis-mixes and their cheapest clearcoat kit. You can sometimes even leave out the clearcoat hardener or activator to save money on practice spraying. My wife has done a few practice panels, and we just used straight clear with no activator. It sprays like normal, but it takes forever to fully cure. It will get dry to the touch, but if you press hard it will fingerprint.

 

My local paint store GIVES me mis-mixes... and I don't just mean 1/2 pints. Last week I painted an entire Camaro with 1/2 gallon of FREE DuPont Nason platinum silver. The whole paint job including sandpaper, tape, base, clear, and gun cleanup solvent, was only $85.

 

You should try to gather some test panels (fenders, hoods, etc) from friends, or just people you see with junk cars sitting in their yards.

 

After you get comfortable with the gun, buy a beater to spray.

 

Here's the Camaro I did last week:

 

camaro3.jpg

camaroafter2.jpg

camaro2.jpg

camaro2after.jpg

camaro4.jpg

camaro4after.jpg

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Guest rick458

I am using my work car as the test dummy, its a 77 Impala

and it is Huge I spent since last Tuesday sanding and priming it

with SPI Epoxy and will smooth, and putty it then spray SPI

2K High build Turbo primer on it. Barry Kives has given me LOTS

of tips and problem solvers.

I hope I can do it well enough not to be embarrassed by driving it

and get good enough to do a Nice job on the 260.

I figure that after spraying 4 layers on the Impala, and 2 (primer)

on the Z I will be in good shape on the S30.

 

Or I will know to get a (real) shooter to finish her.

 

In the mean time I am clinbing every knowledge source I can find

to get Book knowledge as well as practical Hands on

 

I really want the Katana tocome out nice

so when I (finally) put the 427 sb 2004R R230 combo in her

she can turn heads as well as spin them:twisted:

 

But that is a LONG way off

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Guest rick458

what is the difference between the BC and FBC specifically the Stratto Blue BC-04 and FBC-04

is it ultra fine flake and does it shoot smooth or should I leave it alone at this young stage in my shooting life?

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Guest Magnum Rockwilder

The BC is coarse flake and the FBC is ultra fine. FBC is like a fine factory metallic. BC isn't heavy flake, but it's more light reactive than the FBC. I prefer the BC on curvy cars, but it's a matter of preference. Sprayability should be equal.

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Guest Magnum Rockwilder

I would recommend that you spray the base coats a little "dry", i.e. extra air pressure, less fluid flow, and more distance. That will ensure a uniform appearance in the base. I always spray metallics dry.

 

The clear will be the tricky part, but you can always spray an extra clearcoat and then wetsand it smooth. I was once told that "if a painter doesn't get runs, he just isn't trying". You can always sand runs out.

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