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ZHeadV8

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Everything posted by ZHeadV8

  1. Hello Andy,

    Its been quite a spell. I hope your project Zed is all done....some never are,lol.

    Did you ever mount your bonnet badges ? Any pix ?

    Cheers, Vinny

  2. Hello Andy.....did you ever get your badges mounted ? Any pix ?

    CHeers,Vinny

  3. Got the panels yesterday and I am DELIGHTED with them, they are really top quality... THANK YOU. I had an email from USPS on 18th December saying they had tried to deliver them in the UK but I had no card left, no letter, nothing. Contacted USPS who did not know which delivery company in the UK had them (DOH !) Lots of ringing round later I found them yesterday and went to fetch them. WELL WORTH IT .... roll on the centre console, heater control panel, door panels, tubes for inside the headlight scoops, etc etc etc . If you decide to do any of them put me in for the first lot Apart from the dim postal people it was effortless buying these from you, you kept me informed when you recieved the order, the money, when the shipment was due to go out, when it went, that is very very unusual in my experience. I would have no problem buying again on trust - your word is very obviously good enough !!!
  4. There is a peer to peer technology called VeohTV, free to download from the web (google it). Once installed on your pc, if you search for Wangan Midnight you get 10 episodes, 1 - 6 are subbed, 7 - 10 are not, all about 25 minutes long. The live action movie is also there but is not very good.
  5. When mine arrive in the UK Steve, if the guy helping me engineer my car likes them (he will, he has a SERIOUS carbon fibre fetish ... that is how fibre is spelt in ENGLISH) then he will order a set too, straightaway. The pictures look fantastic, top quality. Looking forward to getting them. One big thank you - your communication, sending an invoice, confirming funds have arrived, confirming the planned shipping date etc has been excellent. Makes it a pleasure buying stuff.
  6. ALL Kameari stuff is top notch - very good indeed - some of it is sub contracted though and actually made by other people.
  7. As a member of the UK Z Club, I spend my time posting on the UK forum but as my project is based around an LS2 / T56 combo I have received MASSIVE help over the last couple of years with input on threads from pretty much all of the "Old Gangstas" (that is soooooo American, not British at all ) who started this site for which I am very grateful. Some of you have been kind enough to give me help by PM on more specific topics. We have had similar experiences in the UK where some SERIOSULY clever, decent guys will not be part of the club because of unnecessary crap - we all lose out as a result. I never met or spoke to RacerX offline, never PM'd him but I did enjoy his posts and I learned from them ..... some people should be ashamed right now. It is obviously a mark of his character that he rose above "naming and shaming" the people concerned.
  8. Sorry for not replying for weeks This is the picture I have of the car Thomas Alsterfalk built - beautiful !! As Mull says, it has been resprayed yellow now
  9. Looks like a great fit Rob, having read the story and many like it, I am simply going for Dave Epstein's kit - am too dumb to take the hard route, his stuff fits and works so that is good enough for me Plus the fact he is a cool guy to buy from, always has time to help. Got his suspension kit the other day and was seriously impressed
  10. Hi John and thank you for going into such detail on this thread, it has been a valuable learning experience but I am still a little confused so maybe you can help me out a bit here .... My shell is done, fully dipped, bare metal, ground up rebuild. It has been stitch welded all over, seamed where appropriate, has had longer, thicker chassis rails and a half cage installed (rear hoop only). Whilst there is no science involved in the measurement, the engineer has guessed it has about 50% more torsional rigidity than standard. The LS2 / T56 drivetrain is sat here ready to trial fit, all of the finishing items are boxed new and are waiting to go on after paint BUT....... the next step is the suspension. I have two choices for dampers, one adequate, the other all singing all dancing custom units from Ohlins, either will do but obviously the Ohlins route is best. Brakes, no problem, will use wilwood. The challenge is the arms - My plan all along was to use Kameari adjustable units front and rear but you say that they are not necessary on a road car. If I knew how to put a picture into the thread I would post one - their stuff is exceptional. 95% of the car's time will be on the road, 5% will be on a track or drag strip so I do not want to compromise the road side too much. I am looking for a top "GT" car feel for most of the time (think Porsche, Aston Martin etc) but accept the limited ability of 35 year old suspension design to deliver this. The rest of the time I want to be able to dial in track or drag settings but then put it back to a fast road GT setup when I leave to go home. The Kameari adjustable setup will run to at least $2500 so I need to be sure it would be money well spent. In the setup I have described, with the requirements I have described, would I see much benefit other than bling from a really top notch adjustable control arm setup ????
  11. You guys make me smile ...... and jealous ...... in the UK fuel is about £1.05 PER LITRE not per gallon so about $8 or just over per gallon. Our tax system sucks big style - most of this cost is government tax.
  12. Dynamat is excellent, particularly the extreme stuff. Not the cheapest but it works very very well.
  13. Did not think you guys would appreciate Jeremy Clarkson's "oh so sarcastic" dry humour. I love it. We have a cable channel here that seems to be 50% old Top Gear programs, funny to watch back and see reports of the blistering new xyz that is running a massive 200BHP etc. Some say he talks to dolphins, others say his heart beats with the precision of a Swiss watch. We know him only as "The Stig" In fact ..... The Stig is 4 different people.
  14. Everyone's mileage varies, however, I have not spent a single penny with John's Cars ..................YET ...........but I am going to. I have rung John twice now from the UK, sorting out what goes where, what I need to do with headers etc and I have to say the guy has been immensely helpful both in terms of selling his own products but also warning me about things to watch out for, gotchas, and PIA things that will waste my time and energy. I intend to buy the full kit, I only wish they took credit cards or payment by Paypal but that is not a criticism, merely a convenience thing for me.
  15. Fantastic looking car Darius - They look like standard YZ arches on the back, what did you use for the front wings and spoiler ?? Are they available off the shelf or are they one offs ? Andy F
  16. Hi Ross, no that is not me, will email directly. Thanks for your help.
  17. Hi - I have always loved the vents in your bonnet, did not know it was yours but knew the car. One of very few really clean cars in my list of Z Favourites.... my all time favourite one being at http://zhp.satokikaku.com Yours was pretty close to that for me If you make the glass moulds and reproduce sets presumably I could cut the existing steel bonnet and sink some in ????? Cheers Andy F
  18. Tiny bit off topic but not much ......... Hi Ross, I am looking for 5 stud rear hubs and strengthened 280 stub axles for a 240Z and 5 stud front hubs too. Your site is quite hard to navigate but your product reputations speak for themselves so I have tinkered about a fair bit Boy do you have some goodies Can you confirm that the front aluminium hubs that you advertise as zero offset are in fact straight swaps for the existing ones with the mounting face in the same place ??? The reason I ask is that I intend to fit wheels with a deep dish, any offset on the front will reduce the amount of dish I can have. Many Thanks Andy F
  19. Thanks VinhZXT, I have found a brand new set of C5 headers here in the UK but am still unsure they will fit. It has been suggested that I cut off the tube at the end of collector section and effectively route the pipes any direction I like, but here's the rub : The car is RHD - without actually assembling it and trying it I still do not know whether they will fit - the steering rod (column) hits the sanderson headers right where the four pipes join into one. The guy wants $400 for the headers that I then have to cut and shut to fit, whereas one of the best race exhaust manufacturers in the UK will build custom stainless headers to suit, full twin pipe system including X over and silencers for $3-4,000. By the time I have cut and shut the C5 headers and bought mandrel bent stainless tube, decent mufflers etc I will be half way to a fully tuned, professionally built stainless race exhaust. Damn...... why do things ALWAYS cost twice as much as you first budget for ? :-) A friend of mine has kindly donated an LS1 F body oil pan, the rest of the bits will all be ordered new from GM parts direct. With the exchange rate at the moment and the fact that stuff is cheaper in the states anyway, now is a fantastic time for us to buy American stuff and have it shipped to the UK.
  20. 99% of the time this will be a normal road car, very occasionally it will run the quarter mile and very occasionally it will go on a track ...... Does that constitute street driving ? Definitely not a full time road racer but a very fast road and occasional track car. What do you think ?
  21. Thanks Mike ....... Well found, even though I forgot to PM you the link I have the GTO engine but my friend also has a spare F Body LS1 oil pan..... will that do ? or should I really be looking for a baffled pan ? If that will do the job then I should be sorted. Have today found a company to make the exhausts, custom headers, mandrel bent stainless tubing etc.
  22. After some more ringing around and question asking, I have been told that a Corvette LS2 oil pan (NOT the big wing sump) will also fit and is better than the LS1 oil pan. Anyone have any experience of the Corvette pan please ?
  23. Hi Guys, I have found where to get all of the bits listed but am slightly confused.... The part number given for the oil pan is for an LS1 engine, I have been told that the LS2 oil pan is baffled better so I should use that. Now .... everything I have heard and read here tells me I need an "f" body oil pan from a camaro or a firebird ....but.... they never had LS2 engines. Before I spend any money can someone (Pop'n'Wood????) confirm that I actually need the LS1 oil pan on the bottom of the LS2 engine please ? Or is there an LS2 pan that will fit ??? Sorry to be a bit slow on the uptake guys, we do not have many LS1s and 2s over here, very very few people I can ask about this stuff. Many Thanks Andy F
  24. Having gone through the links you guys have kindly posted and researched some other threads, it woul seem that the install is none too difficult. The wiring will be taken care of by a friend of mine who is an electrical engineer, cars are WAY below his capability level and the fuel supply will be sorted by him as well. The CAI idea is a good one, I like the over the top idea but think I prefer the flatter wider intake to the C5 one, may be forced to go C5 because it does not look like the bonnet will shut with the wide flat one. Fly by wire looks quite easy too....... Exhausts will be the next pain..... The JCI supplied headers will not work on a RHD car because the steering rod is in the wrong place - may have to have some made. IS there anyone who has had full mandrel bent exhausts made where the bending program still exists ? ie, could I order a front to back mandrel bent system from anywhere ? to fit a 1971 240Z with an LS2 / T56 ?? one pipe either side at the back ?
  25. What you have to remember is that I am probably far far less skilled that most guys here, I am an IT guy NOT an engineer and I am running a project based on advice from more skilled people like you and the other guys here. The help you guys give me is invaluable and I appreciate it - the twin pump thing has been recommended by one of the engineers building the car. His reasoning is that is the engine requires say 55psi and if he uses a pair of 60psi pumps then the regulator up front will keep the pressure to 55psi as required ... BUT... in the event of failure there is always the second one and having two pumps will ensure consistent fuel delivery. Another MAJOR reason for twin pumps is the shape of the tank - it fits behind the seats and goes over the gear tunnel so when fuel gets lower there will effectively be a reservoir of fuel on either side of the tunnel. This effectively means that when full it will work as one tank but when half empty it will work as two tanks. It has been put inside the car to help keep the weight inside the wheelbase as close to the centre as possible. Because the LS2 sits pretty much behind the front axle his reasoning is that THEORETICALLY this will become a mid engined car ?????? HUH ???????? If the tank is inside along with various other bits, it can be set up and corner weighted to be a very neutral 50 / 50 weight distribution. Again, I have been told that taking the tank out from underneath and cutting away the rear valance will allow faster airflow and higher volume airflow underneath, supposedly helping stability. Please do not shoot the messenger I may be buying the Emperor's new clothes here but some of it makes sense to the un-initiated.
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