buZy Posted March 25, 2005 Share Posted March 25, 2005 NOTE: THESE ARMS HAVE NOT FAILED OR BROKE IN ANY WAY SHAPE OR FORM! After much discussion here and with many others I decided to add more stregth to these front arms. The fear was "MAYBE" the caster arm mounting tab .375 thick would break out from the very thin threaded tubing wall of less than .100 thick. Solution. Wrap the entire 1 inch tube with more 4130 chromemoly. The material tube size is 1.250 OD x .120 wall slit in half and machined to fit over the 1 inch tube. Cut an open slot for the caster tab and drilled a hole for the roll bar mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted March 27, 2005 Author Share Posted March 27, 2005 NOTE: THIS ARM DID NOT FAIL IN ANY WAY WHAT SO EVER! I just added some strength to it. These products are very first class stuff and in NO WAY am I trying make them look bad. Thanks for all your design help and great service! Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Mileski Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 I also purchased a set of the Arizona Z Car front arms and think they are great. I did wish that the main arm had additional wall thickness and that they were left hand / right hand threaded so I could do adjustments them without unbolting them, so I decided to do the following: I purchased some 1 1/8" tubing with a .220 wall thickness from bulletproofsteering.com. It comes with a 3/4-16 RH thread on one end and 3/4-16 LH thread on the other end, but I had them do left hand threads on both ends (which they did at no extra cost). Then I cut a length off of each end, giving me two pieces, each having a 3/4-16 LH thread on one end. Then I got a right hand metric tap to match the ball joint threads on the AZ Z Car piece and tapped the opposite end. Now I have two replacement arms that are super beefy and can be adjusted on the car. In addition, I also used a 3/4-16 shank rod end that has a 5/8 bore on the ball that replaces the standard 5/8 rod end that came with the piece. It makes it a lot stouter all around. I also replaced the AZ Z Car TC rod with a rod that utilizes a 3/4†shank clevis on one end and a 3/4" shank rod end on the other, replacing the stock 5/8†hardware, making these much stronger too. I realize that the mods I’ve done would greatly increase the price, making them pretty much unfeasible to produce, but I feel I have improved on an already excellent and proven design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted March 31, 2005 Author Share Posted March 31, 2005 Those look really good. Great idea. The arms I have are also left and right hand threaded. The rod end has the left hand thread. It is possible to change the length without seperating the main ball joint. What design are you running for the sway bar link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Mileski Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 I haven't given much thought to the sway bar link yet. I'd like to make it adjustable, though. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted April 3, 2005 Author Share Posted April 3, 2005 Me too. Adjustable in which way were you thinking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Mileski Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 Being able to adjust the length of the link itself. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 That's a piece of cake, but not "on the car adjustable", I don't think there's enough room. My bar already had a 3-hole setup with a rod end, so I simply bought one end male, the other female. I did have to make a small adapter so the rod end was perpendicular to the LCA, and not parralel. You could also do this with a bushing style bar, using a u-shaped bracket bolted in place of the bushing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted April 5, 2005 Author Share Posted April 5, 2005 Thanks... Have a 240z stock bar right now. May switch it out later after testing etc. I like the idea of the U shaped bracket capturing the bushing. Then what, run a link straignt down perpendicular to the LCA? In mild steel how thick should that bracket material be??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted April 5, 2005 Share Posted April 5, 2005 Thanks...Have a 240z stock bar right now. May switch it out later after testing etc. I like the idea of the U shaped bracket capturing the bushing. Then what' date=' run a link straignt down perpendicular to the LCA? In mild steel how thick should that bracket material be???[/quote'] I made a small H shaped of sorts pice entirely out of .125 mild steel. I wish I had a digital camera! It's too hard trying to describe this kind of stuff. Basically it's a small plate, 1.25" square, bolted to the LCA, and two uprights welded perpendicular to that, so the rod end mounts above where it was orinally intended. Seems to work very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted April 6, 2005 Author Share Posted April 6, 2005 I made a small H shaped of sorts pice entirely out of .125 mild steel. I wish I had a digital camera! It's too hard trying to describe this kind of stuff. Basically it's a small plate, 1.25" square, bolted to the LCA, and two uprights welded perpendicular to that, so the rod end mounts above where it was orinally intended. Seems to work very well. Think I know you what you mean. Yea pictures say a million words. Your set up is a bit different than mine as my stock roll bar has no hemi joint rod ends. Just a stock bushing mount typical. It is offset from the lower LCA mount. Not directly above like yours. Your set up sounds much more ideal. Where or how did you make or find a roll bar to fit these LCA arms? Or are you running a different LCA arm? Thanks for chiming in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 Think I know you what you mean. Yea pictures say a million words. Your set up is a bit different than mine as my stock roll bar has no hemi joint rod ends. Just a stock bushing mount typical. It is offset from the lower LCA mount. Not directly above like yours. Your set up sounds much more ideal. Where or how did you make or find a roll bar to fit these LCA arms? Or are you running a different LCA arm? Thanks for chiming in. Man, I really need a digital camera. I guess I should have stated from the get go that I have the AZcar LCA's. The H-bracket was to adapt the sway bar mount to the nut that he has welded on othe front of the LCA, and turn the rod end 90 degrees. Actually my swaybar mount was offset from the LCA as well. With a rod end both on the top and bottom this was not an issue. I guess the hole furthest forward is directly above, but right now it's in the last one out, and is on an angle. You can still do the u-shaped bracket capturing the rod end, on the bar end and have this same set up. If you have stock LCA's, you can still do the same thing with a U-bracket both on the top and bottom. This way you get rid of those terrible bushings, and get a more accurate feel for how well the sway bar is actually working. The sway bar is from Saner performance. He has really good prices and is very flexible with what you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted April 7, 2005 Author Share Posted April 7, 2005 Cool beans! Thanks again! Saner website is very good info. After seeing that I can understand what you are trying to describe. Are you running the same Z bar listed on this webpage? Early Z? Is that a 1.125 diameter bar?? Brian http://www.sanerperffab.com/prod01.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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