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240z rods


4everDATSUN

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Gotcha. Sorry bout that, my mistake. So then you'll need valves and springs and cam from a 280Z N head IIRC (not the P head). If you go with a big aftermarket cam then you'll need aftermarket springs and retainers, there was a good thread on valve stem seals that have better clearance, etc.

 

I don't think that book talks about the Maxima head, but it's going to be pretty similar to the E31 which is described. You'll need to install new valves and seats, port the head and unshroud the valves. There are some good threads here by Mack who used the Max N47. You might have already seen them, but if you search for his name you'll get some good info.

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Guest billyzbear

I used Isky valve springs, got them from a guy I knew at PAW. Never had a problem at high revs.

 

The ZX balancer has two pulleys on it, right? One for A/C and one for alt. that's it. Again never had a problem. It had low miles on it, like 7,000, got it from a guy I worked with at Nissan.

 

I put about 150,000 miles on that motor. The only thing that had any wear was the rings which where Nissan factory. The bearing's looked almost new. Lucky, sure I guess atleast once or twice.

 

I used a N42 head worked great. Higher compression, Big valves and square exhaust ports. ZX block with flat top pistons about 10.5 to 1. The head shop could have milled it some, the compression was 225 per cyl. Had alot of problems to get it to run right on pumped fuel. It loved 98 octane. Keep things as cool as you can. Ceramic coated header, heat shield and 160 thermostat.

I'm useing a P90 head now with bigger exhaust valves and full porting. I showed the porter the P90 and N42 and he said the P90 looked better. He does racing heads for a living and I read they where better. Spend the extra money to get the head ported. I spent a 1000 with fancy valves. I have a stroker not 100% sure I'd do it again. It has a bunch of power down low but doesn't want to rev much. The cam is med. 495 lift and 280 dur. I'm thinking of getting a longer duration to get it to rev. Then street use goes bye-bye.

This time I also used a ZX turbo flywheel which takes a bigger clutch. I like factory clutchs, because I don't like to work on my car much. It's roughly 15 pounds. I put a ZX dist., change the piece under the dist., with a Crane HI-6. Very good upgrade. I also use a Crane timing box to fine tune spark advancement. I had 40's with 30mm chokes and it was ok. Went to 45's now with 38mm chokes. Wide open throttle is better. 40's with 36mm chokes could be good.

A week after this new stroker motor I broke my first axle stub and a month I broke a new zx 5 spd. After almost twenty years, I have broken seven 5 spd's and four diff's. So far the T-5 from a 82 turbo and the rear end is from a 88 300 zx turbo, a limited slip r-200 have been holding up.

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sounds awesome, its nice to hear how someone has taken care of their datsun for such a long time.

 

i was thinkin of getting the crane cams ignition but have heard alot about reliability with them. so ive decided to spend the extra few bucs and go with the msd ignition. . does any one know what the best/popular 6-series igniton is?

and isnt the zx flywheel bigger than the z, not just the clutch? and if it is what did you do about the starter? ive got a four speed and im goin to try to stick with is as long as possible, i think its just the fact of being different, nothing to do with performance, although i guess itll be good when im pullin away from a little civic, less shifting

 

one last thing, i was thinkin about that harmonic problem, i really dont plan on takin my z up that high for constant power, so im sure it wont be a problem for me. i might actually set my rev limiter around there, depending on how my setup runs

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Guest billyzbear

The turbo flywheel is the same for the starter, just the disc space is bigger. It also takes a heavy duty pressure plate. It all bolts together the same, just get the throw out bearing sleeve.

I have run Crane for 12 years. The one time my box went bad THEY charged me twenty bucks for a new one. Customer service was great. It also comes with built in rev limiter. For a MSD equal you would have to get a 6-al. Use the ZX dist. for a trigger.

The 5th gear on a 5spd is a overdrive. Do not go up a steep grade in 5th and you should be ok. That lesson sucked. Then again the t-5 is the strongest bolt on trans for a L6.

With the cam I have now, 495 lift and 280 duration. I could go upto 6400 rpm. There was also Webers 40's, headers, ignition box, N42 head not milled, ZX block with flat tops about 10.3 to 1, 195 compression per cyl. On the dyno I put out 186hp at the wheels about 240hp from motor. THEY say with a good port job on head you can get another 60hp. I didn't dyno after but boy did it feel better even with lower compression P90 vs N42.

The r-200's are stronger than the r-180's in the 240's. Get the rear mount from a 280 with r-200 and the r-200 will bolt right into a 240,260 & 280.

Bolt on some 80-82 toyota truck front calipers for way better brakes.

 

I'm just trying to throw some ideas out there so you can understand more about Z's.

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im all about what your saying, most of that stuff i am goin with. but i think for brakes im goin to run the arizona zcar set up, ive always like that set up ever since we ran them on our scca rx-7. of course it was a little different, but the same idea with the 2 part rotor and wilwood calipers (prob the best on the market)

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Guest billyzbear

Ok, you want the big brakes. My wallet is a little small right now or I would have them to. Look here:

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/6117/zbrakeupgrade.html

This guy use to make the adapter.

http://www.jskinnovations.com/Wilwood5.htm

This guy I know does.

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php

 

Something I forgot to say earlier. You should use a turbo oil pump, it pumps more volume. Bolts up the same. On the stroker I used Total Seal rings and ARP bolts.

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I have JSK's front and rear setup, and Juan is impossible to get a hold of anymore. I don't know why, he used to be on hybridz all the time. He seems like a good guy in general, but if you can't contact him that's no good. Based on the returned emails that I've sent and the lack of a phone to contact him, I'd suggest you look at AZC or modern motorsports.

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Guest billyzbear

No, I haven't done business with either. I believe AZC is high priced. Modern Motorsport may be cheaper. I think vented brakes in the front with a big caliper is all that is needed. Are you planning on taking it to the track on the weekends? And if you got the cash then heck ya go for it. Your money maybe better spent on camber and caster adjustments for front and rear with coilovers.

I like my big calipers but wished I had vented rotors. It still stops very well.

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