mas8230 Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 Well, I've had about enough messing with the slave cylinder conversion. I did the conversion per JTR (Twice), and now I seem to have a leak. For what I've went through, I could have had the hydraulic throwout done and over with. My Z has been sitting inside a heated garage for about 1 1/2 months, and I went to move it today and the clutch pedal went all the way to the floor. I saw a small puddle under the slave. And every time I've bled the system, it took hours on end. Also, I am getting some type of wierd oxidation on the slave and on the clutch master. Why? OK, Back to my Original Thread.... 327 SBC, WCT5, from '89 Camaro. I have a Howe 7/8" Clutch Master Cylinder. I want the McLeod self-adjusting bearing. Which part number bearing do I want to work with my master? Does it come with the braided lines? Do I have to drill extra holes in my bellhousing? I went to the McLeod and Summit website and the part number for my tranny is 1400-20 or MCL1400-20. Does that sound right? But neither site has a picture of the item. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 I have that part. It come's with very short braided S/S lines. They are -4 size AN fittings. I the lines going out the throwout lever mounting hole of my lakewood bellhousing. I bought the Mcloud T/O bearing 3 years ago. It had the older style fiitings that were known to leak. So I followed a board member's advise and placed 2 THIN copper crush washer's to seal the fiitings to the main bearing body. I think Mcloud may have upgraded the fittings since then. Inthe first photo you can see the 2 hoses coming out of the bellhousing. The second is obviouslly the bearing itself. I hope that helps. Sorry the first photo was too large to download. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 I'm using a 3/4" master with my McLeod HTOB, and it's a little quick. I suspect a 11/16" would be just right. I had one of the early one's with the leaking o rings, after replacing them it's worked like a charm. Stock Car Products has a nice stainless line that works good from the clutch to the master. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 I've got a new one in the box, never used I bought for my t-56n but never got around to putting it in. Did'nt want to buy a new clutch set up. I'll let it go for cheaper than you can buy a new one. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strotter Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 I've been through the same thing. I'm currently using an hydraulic unit that came with a Weir bellhousing - a very OEM-looking part with no I.D. You know what the nicest part of the whole installation was? It was the moment when I needed to bleed it out, and I took my little teeny wrench and turned the bleeder, and 30 seconds later I was done. Oh, that was nice. Real nice. Good times, good times... JTR needs to make a hydraulic the "official" technique. Mike, you hearing this? Mike? Mike? (Is there a problem with the 'phone, or what?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Phil1934 Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 Just to add some other thought, I believe McLeod is now making steel slave cylinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mas8230 Posted April 4, 2005 Author Share Posted April 4, 2005 I have a cast slave on now, I got it from Advance Auto Parts. However, I would like to avoid the slave altogether. I found the problem. The female union between the pipe nipple and the AN fitting (per JTR), the union split, a hailine crack the entire length of the union. Anybody ever have that happen before? I'm gonna replace it to get me going, ($1.50 plus a couple hours of bleeding the cylinder), But I'm gonna avoid the problem altogether an put the hydraulic TB as a permanent fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylude Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 Does anyone care to explain the difference between the "Bolt-on" version and the "Slip-on" versions McLeod lists? Mas8230, what do you mean by "self-adjusting" version? Do you not have to bother with the shimming process? What is self-adjusting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 Some versions- the Howe, for instance, is held in place by the front bearing retainer bolts. The McLeod can spin freely on the input shaft, the only thing that keeps it from spinning is the fluid lines. The McLeod has a threaded adjustment collar, so you don't need shims. I don't know about the self adjusting one. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psykovertible Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 I too wondered about this as I plan to use a T5 or Tremec variety. The shims looks a little bit "shade tree" to me. I have never used on so I guess I just dont know. Is there, has anyone seen one, or would someone like to try one..... a Ford Ranger uses a self contained cannon style TB. I beleive it was fully self contained and was very easy to install/replace/bleed. If memory serves.... it bolted onto the front of a T5 in my 88 Ranger 6cly. I will be surfing for answers on this. Hopefully a usefull comment and not a waste of type strokes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 After thinking the self adjusting part over, here's the deal: When you install the HTOB, you adjust it to get the stroke within the design operating range. This is done by adjusting the threaded collar or adding/removing shims. Once the initial adjustment is done, any of the bearings self adjust for clutch wear, as long as the wear doesn't exceed the stroke limits of the bearing. So, initial setup is required, but you don't have to adjust the HTOB as the clutch wears. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeder Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 I use a McCleod Hydraulic TOB on my T5 - It is the bolt - on variety and bolts on to replace the input shaft's bearing retainer.My TOB is all aluminum. jt1, you are correct in your explanation of the "self adjusting" feature - I had to measure the depth required for the piston/bearing to protrude to be within operating tolerance, then select the proper length piston for the TOB to get this measurement right. It was very easy to bleed....and works well with the stock master cylinder on my 280Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 My HTOB is the McLeod slip on. The manufacturer uses O-rings to make the fit snug onto the input shaft housing. One thing to note here is to make sure the adjustment is on the far end (fully extended range) of the operating "window", especially if using a long style (or similar finger type) pressure plate (and may be applicable to a diaphame type as well). This is because the fingers move inboard toward the bearing as the clutch disc gets thinner due to wear. I initially adjusted it on the short side of the window wanting to stay in the mid-range of the threaded sleeve. Then, after the clutch wore a bit, the fingers moved inward toward the bearing, which then eventually butted up against the "at rest" stop. This resulted in having constant pressure on the pressure plate (on the fingers), and a slipping clutch. I consequently re-adjusted the threaded sleeve (threading the bearing back toward the engine block) so that future wear on the clutch disc would still allow a bit of margin between the minimum (at rest) setting, and where the clutch fingers would be with the clutch completely wore out. This is a self adjusting bearing just like brake calipers are self adjusting. I did have an issue with leaking banjo fittings, but a simple replacement of the tiny O-rings fixed that. I also had the pressure plate wear through the lining of the braided SS lines as well (which was my fault for not insuring sufficient clearance away from the spinning pressure plate). This was too resolved and I've not had trouble with it for 4 years now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeder Posted April 20, 2005 Share Posted April 20, 2005 I spoke too soon about the stock master cylinder working with the McCleod TOB- http:/http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100706 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted April 20, 2005 Share Posted April 20, 2005 Yep, with my high force RAM pressure plate, I kept the size of the MC at 3/4". Anything larger tended to flex the firewall, but a lighter duty plate may allow a larger MC than this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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