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Alsil's Cross member with EFI 302


Rival5

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I'm planning on putting a 89-93 mustang 302 into my 77 280Z with the EFI. I've seen some posts here about a year old saying that there are clearence issues with the hood when using FI, but nothing more recent. I know ill have to cut the steering shaft and thats not a problem.

My question is has anyone put in a FI 302 with Alsil's mounts without modifying his mounts?

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Using the mount out of the box will cause some clearance issues with the hood just right of center about 12" down from the hood line at the cowl. Does that make sense? My clearance problem was the TPS sensor hitting the hood when the hood was fully closed. I believe another member modified the mount to lower the engine which allowed for more clearance. Me? I just used a little 2lbs hammer to clearance the hood and then smoothed the body work out on the outside.

 

I have the engine pushed all of the way back so that the upper intake manifold is about 1/8" away from the hood latch. If you removed the hatch you may be able to slide the engine back a little more but I'm not sure that it would be enough to solve the clearance problem.

 

Besides...the blister gives people something to talk about.

 

Josh

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personally I think you should get the comp cams polymer intake because it it much more compact and the guys I have talked to here in town love it. It is lighter, disipates heat faster, and is easier to do valve cover R&R when gaskets or rockers need work.

 

Comp cams intake and a cold air kit out to the front through the radiator support...... good mod.

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Hey thanks for the responces. I was hoping you would respond Josh, I believe it was your posts that I was reading and I was wondering how you fixed your clearence problem.

 

It would be nice to get an aftermarket intake, but thats not in my budget.

I'll try to take pics and post here what I end up doing.

 

Mike

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I have been planning on trying an aftermarket intake but houses, coil-overs and other stuff gets in the way. Someday....I hope.

 

I also machined 1/2" off of the lower intake surface (of a spare lower manifold I had) where the upper and lower mate which solved my clearance issue but the fuel rails didn't fit under the now lower upper manifold and I didn't feel like messing with it anymore. I swapped that lower out for one that wasn't machined but I pretty sure it could have worked with a little more "adjusting." In the end I just wanted to drive the car and didn't have the patience to keep chasing the next problem. Now that the car is becoming more and more reliable I will focus on making it pretty again.

 

Josh

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I do not use Alsil's crossmember, but I do have a 5.0L installed in my 260Z. Originally I installed the motor using the late model mustang rubber mounts and some steel plates attached to the frame. This worked pretty well, but if I were to rubber mount the engine again, I would build something similar to Alsil's crossmember. Here is a picture of the engine as it was installed on the rubber mounts:

 

PC160005.JPG

 

As you can see, I had to notch the bracket that holds the latch mechanism (ever so slightly).

 

As stated earlier, the point of closest contact is the tube on top of the throttle body. I have about 1/4" clearance between the stock hood and the tube.

 

Currently, my engine is mounted using a front plate/mid plate configuration. The engine is in the same location as before, but now it is mounted solid. A benefit of the front plate mid plate set-up is that it opens up tons of room under the engine.

 

PICT0026.JPG

 

PICT0009.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...

It might have been me who you are referring to. I tried modifing Al's mount, but it ended up in the scrap metal bin. I used his design and built my own. This is the best pic I have of my mount.

 

showphoto.php?photo=1112&size=big&cat=500&page=1

 

There are a few more pics in that album.

 

I used the GT-40 intake which I believe to be 1" to 1-1/2" taller than Josh's Cobra intake. There are also pics of the header modification that was necessary for clearance. And I had to use a remote oil filter.

 

One last thing, Josh mentioned if you remove the hood latch you can move the motor further back. I don't "think" it is possible. My balancer sits about 1/2" above the rack and the front sump of my oil pan drops just behind the crossmember. What I am getting at is with the engine this low, you have to move it back until the oil pan can go behind the crossmember. With the engine that far back the top two bellhousing bolts are 1/2" or less to the firewall. If you use the original brake lines there will probably be interference, but I made all of my brake lines and just moved those two lines up about where the heater core bolts are and moved the proportion valve up and to the left side of the car.

 

One last thing, the shifter location for the T-5 is perfect!

 

Mark

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