dreco Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 it seams I keep burning up coils, don't know why... I'm running a pertronix distributor, with the right coil....I'm currently not running the ballast (burned em up with or without it). The symptom I'm getting is I'm getting bad spark, especially at higher rpms. as soon as I put a new coil in...runs perfect, for about a month or so.... anyone have a problem with this... I'm a good wrench, but don't know my electronics well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 The ballast is to reduce voltage so that the points don't get burned up, so that shouldn't be necessary with most (all?) EI systems. As to why you're having this trouble it's tough to say. I'm wondering if it might not be the coil at all. Is everything else in good condition? Cap, rotor, wires, plugs? Plugs aren't fouled, etc... Here's a simple coil test procedure: http://www.mymopar.com/coiltest.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreco Posted June 23, 2005 Author Share Posted June 23, 2005 The ballast is to reduce voltage so that the points don't get burned up' date=' so that shouldn't be necessary with most (all?) EI systems. As to why you're having this trouble it's tough to say. I'm wondering if it might not be the coil at all. Is everything else in good condition? Cap, rotor, wires, plugs? Plugs aren't fouled, etc... Here's a simple coil test procedure: http://www.mymopar.com/coiltest.htm everything else is fine. it did it again yesterday(symptoms), i went straight to an auto shop and picked up another one, and it ran full song afterward.... I'm wondering if it's heat, I'm running a header, that isn't wrapped or coated, and I live in Texas. I'm going to try a better coil and see if that doesn't help... I notice it being worse when I sit at idle for awhile, then it gets better after I drive it for awhile (thinking maybe the coil it getting cooler with some cooler air under the hood), but it still never gets back to 100% spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 That is the first time I've heard anything like that with a coil being the culprit. I would wait until this problem happens again, then test the coil immediately while you're experiencing the problem. My understanding of the internals of coils is that they are just two big spools of wire usually submerged in oil or epoxy. So the only problem you're really going to encounter is going to be a short or a bad/loose connection. That test should still apply, and if you've only got the problem when hot, test it hot. This is going to sound like it is out of left field, but have you considered vapor lock as a possibility? If you still have the mechanical fuel pump or the original metal fuel rail those things can put a LOT of heat into the fuel system. I had problems with vapor lock once when I was at a track and it was 105º. After that race I installed an electric fuel pump and a rubber line that went from the fuel filter to the radiator core support then back to the carbs and had no return line. That cured my problem. Could be that while you're swapping the coil the hood is open and everything else is cooling off under there. Then you jump in and voila, runs great until you're stuck in traffic again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreco Posted June 23, 2005 Author Share Posted June 23, 2005 That is the first time I've heard anything like that with a coil being the culprit. I would wait until this problem happens again' date=' then test the coil immediately while you're experiencing the problem. My understanding of the internals of coils is that they are just two big spools of wire usually submerged in oil or epoxy. So the only problem you're really going to encounter is going to be a short or a bad/loose connection. That test should still apply, and if you've only got the problem when hot, test it hot. This is going to sound like it is out of left field, but have you considered vapor lock as a possibility? If you still have the mechanical fuel pump or the original metal fuel rail those things can put a LOT of heat into the fuel system. I had problems with vapor lock once when I was at a track and it was 105º. After that race I installed an electric fuel pump and a rubber line that went from the fuel filter to the radiator core support then back to the carbs and had no return line. That cured my problem. Could be that while you're swapping the coil the hood is open and everything else is cooling off under there. Then you jump in and voila, runs great until you're stuck in traffic again.[/quote']nope. I thought of that too, so I put the old coil back on and it did it again. although your fix might not be a bad idea. at least it would rule vapor locking out.. I'll tell you what though.. the old coil was hot as hell, hard to hold in my bare hand.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zbuild Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 Can you move your coil to the plug side of the motor, away from your exhaust. . . or if you wanted to get really excited, move it forward, behind the grill, I probably wouldn't leave it out there though as water might be a problem. . . This would tell you if your heat theory was sound Cheers - Zbuild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DoTheDrew888 Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 Are you sure you aren't connecting the positive and negative wires on the wrong posts? I think I read somewhere that doing that will allow your coil to work but cause it to burn up quickly. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreco Posted June 24, 2005 Author Share Posted June 24, 2005 Are you sure you aren't connecting the positive and negative wires on the wrong posts? I think I read somewhere that doing that will allow your coil to work but cause it to burn up quickly. Just a thought. yeah, I hooked it up right...... I did notice that when I bought a better coil it lasted longer... I'm going to try and protect the next one from the heat somehow(along with buying one that is more heat resistant) and see if that doesn't fix the problem... why Nissan put everything on the same side as the exhaust is beyond me... I wonder if there is a short somewhere... I think an electrical system check is in order.. Could to much voltage be going to the coil??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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