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200sx s13 with rb25det


Guest Immolarsen

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Guest Immolarsen

Hello!

 

I've issued a couple of posts on the norwegian Nissan-forum, though nobody seems to be able to help me... Hopefully some of you will have a clue whats going on with my engine...

 

As mentioned, I got a 200sx s13 with a rb25det engine, just installed. I bought a complete "package" from this norwegian guy which included:

 

-Standard rb25det

-autronics sm2

-turbonetics turbo (good for 520 hp)

-greddy inlet

 

In addition I have a greddy front mounted IC, greddy alu radiator, oil catch, walbro 255 l/h fuelpump, 3" exhaust++

 

The engine is mapped and ready with 451 hp at 1 bar, with papers and everything.

 

Now, I've just finished the engine-swap, and the first start was a few days ago. I haven't got a wb-lambda yet, though hopefully it will be in place soon...

 

The symptoms are:

- Black smoke

- Black spark plugs (all of them)

- Low idle speed when cold (400-500 RPM)

- Stabilized idle speed when warm (800-1000 RPM)

- Seems to get way to much fuel, or way too little air?

- According to autronics-software "charge-temp" get's abit high after a while (when just running at idle speed) ? Anybody now what charge-temp is?

- Intake becomes quite warm after running at idle speed for while

- oil pressure at idle speed, about 2 bar (normal?)

- when driving the car runs "smooth" beneath 3000 RPM, and starts jerking when the turbo spins up. Though the turbo charges no more than 0,5 bar (but it feels like just driving a none-turbo-charged-vehicle).

 

I would be extremely glad for any help! I'm not very good with technical tems, especially in english :-/ So if you guys could keep it as simple as possible :)

 

There might be some things that I've forgotten...

If you want to see some pictures, that can be arranged.

 

Kind regards,

Geir

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First, go through EVERYTHING again. Make sure you have good grounds, etc. Then, check fuel pressure on the fly. It should be anywhere from 3-5 bar at idle, depending on where it was set. It should increase linearly with the boost. Check the MAP on the laptop. It doesn't matter what the boost gauge says if the MAP sensor is reading wrong. If there is a leak in the hose to the sensor, you'll be able to see it from the MAP reading. Check ignition timing. Should be anywhere from 30-40 degrees at WOT above 3000rpm with no boost. If that's OK, and fuel pressure is OK, and MAP is OK, the ECU probably just has a crappy tune.

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Guest Immolarsen
First, go through EVERYTHING again. Make sure you have good grounds, etc. Then, check fuel pressure on the fly. It should be anywhere from 3-5 bar at idle, depending on where it was set. It should increase linearly with the boost. Check the MAP on the laptop. It doesn't matter what the boost gauge says if the MAP sensor is reading wrong. If there is a leak in the hose to the sensor, you'll be able to see it from the MAP reading. Check ignition timing. Should be anywhere from 30-40 degrees at WOT above 3000rpm with no boost. If that's OK, and fuel pressure is OK, and MAP is OK, the ECU probably just has a crappy tune.

 

Ok, thanks for anwering :)Need all the help I can get here...

 

I'll go over it all again. But how will I be able to see if there is a leak in the MAP reading? And to check ignition timing I will probably need some kind of instrument in addition? I'm not really experienced in the field... should probably have someone with experience to look over it... Just hoping that i've overlooked something easy-to-fix-yourself-stuff... Since the engine was working perfectly when it was in the other car... the only difference from his setup to mine is that the piping from turbo to intercooler is abit different, is this critical?

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