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cheftrd last won the day on July 18 2009

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  1. Re-connecting the orange/brown wires restores it to whatever cylinder operation. Green goes to green. GMR pu must be bolted down, and clamps around one of the coil power supply wires (at the coil so it doesn't register current from more than one coil). http://documents.msdperformance.com/8918.pdf
  2. There are a lot more than that. The six or seven that I've personally seen all start with the front clip from the BNR. Uses the frame members, cross member, front support, etc. Aprons and suspension are all custom, with pipe uppers. Old post, but to the OP, It's a ridiculous amount of work for not much gain, as the car already has fantastic traction from the get-go. I'm guessing that with the way the engine sits forward in "Skyline" position, it actually handles worse.
  3. Sort of, but not really...LOL. It's only at idle, and because there was so much fuel going in dirty, it took a lot more fuel to get it to burn correctly. At 7k rpm, there's 17ms to get all the fuel in, so pretty much once you're past the mid range, there's no real benefit to be gained from tweaking injection timing, other than keeping fuel stand-off to a minimum, if it's even a problem.
  4. I saw that, and asked him about it. His timing is start of injection, and he found it best starting about 350°, which is 10°BTDC, or just when the valve is opening, so it's IVO injection. All I did above was changed it to somewhere I knew was going to be IVO, and its far from optimized. Once I play with it some more, I'm guessing that I will find the same results Andy did. The injectors on in the TWM DCOE throttles are also a little further away. It runs good now, but I'm also wondering how much better it might run with some Denso UC injectors with a 50μm SMD atomization vs. dirty DW modified
  5. I recently had a real fight with a set of TWM DCOE ITB's on an L, that had me going in circles for months. Car ran fantastic. Turn-key start and idle from dead cold with only ignition timing manipulation (No idle air control), awesome transient response, good power, and excellent drivability... But it would foul plugs at idle, no matter what I did. Tuned loads of engines with ITB's, but always with the injector at the port. Finally got it figured out as an injection timing issue. I'm posting the write up here in case someone else ever comes across it, and hopefully won't have to struggle wi
  6. Shifter should stay in the same spot, as you're using the Z32 rear housing and mount. Clutch will be RB26. Spline is the same, so there are no mods required if you are using RB26 front case. Questions about RB25 are both yes. I still have one aluminum rear sump pan for dropping 26 into S30. Will part with it for $200 plus freight. You must fab pick up, and desired sump baffling. Probably need modding to go into Z32, as well.
  7. Link to my page which has some of the stuff on it: https://www.facebook.com/mjrperformance/ I mostly just dabble in high performance these days. Nothing very serious. Build and tune engines for a couple of teams. Sell, install, and tune Haltech when time permits. Don't know if you can view without being friends, but this is his Hakoska album: https://www.facebook.com/kazuma.okuhama/media_set?set=a.489249354470777.1073741825.100001571511640&type=3 ...and Z album: https://www.facebook.com/kazuma.okuhama/media_set?set=a.109482819114101.12869.100001571511640&type=3
  8. For some reason, the Platinum systems don't like using rising edge on Nissan Optical. No idea why, but I tried that early on with this car, with bad results. That's probably why I didn't consider it rotating backwards...LOL. 24-1 to me means twenty four dash one, as in twenty four on the trigger, and one on the home I'm really hard to understand sometimes... I almost never use missing tooth triggers, so it never crosses my mind that I might be confusing the hell out of people LOL. Sorry. Anyway, these CAS adapters from Dookies have a less-that-desirable shaft quality. If I'm ordering t
  9. Got it fired up today. Runs like a champ. I've done 6 Elite systems so far. The Elite system is much, much more sophisticated. Even though the tuning software seems kind of the same, it's not. There's a lot more stuff to monkey with, and not a lot of definitions or explanations. It's a very advanced level system that requires advanced level knowledge. I really struggled with it at first, it was a steep learning curve. The online support is pretty good though. Using the ESP software with a wireless internet connection, the guys at Haltech can help with troubleshooting remotely if you need
  10. That's what I did. When I talked to Matt at Haltech, he thought flipping it was a better option, too. There's something in the way the trigger is set up when Nissan optical is selected, that doesn't like rising edge. Conversely, when using an Elite system, it wants to see riding edge. Anyway, flipped it over, and only had to slightly elongate the two holes for the screws. Going to try to get over and give it a crank today. Fingers crossed, but 99% sure this will work.
  11. Thanks for the replies. Got it worked out yesterday... Was able to spin the CAS 180° and use the 24 tooth window as Home...same problem. Next step: Even though the signal at the ECU is clean on the o-scope, I couldn't get away from it being an engine problem. So I figured we'd spin it without using the engine. I pulled the CAS again, didn't have drill, as I was at the owners house, so I wrapped a string around the CAS shaft, turned off the injectors, and gave at a whirl. Datalog showed a CLEAN ramp with no drop-out's. That turned on a bunch of lights for me. So with the CAS out, c
  12. Wondering if there are any members here running Haltech and an RBXX CAS for signal, and if so, what are your trigger settings? ECU is PS2000. Having a problem with "rpm drop-out's" where the ECU "thinks" the rpm has fallen, but hasn't... Starts and idles clean (296° cam), but the drop-out's, as viewed in the data-log picture, are playing havoc with ignition timing, target lambda, etc. Battery voltage to the CAS is good, no voltage drop present on the CAS ground, and the 6X/360X CAS signal is clean when scoped at the ECU. For giggles, tried another CAS, and another new
  13. Pix working again... I let my hosting package lapse, and always forget that the pictures are hosted there...
  14. Standard polyurethane car paint works, as well. A bit more involved,as you have to mix it and should use some flex to keep it less brittle, but it's pretty impervious to solvents, gasoline, oil, and what not. Anything in a spray can will work, but my be more suseptible to chemicals, rust, etc.
  15. Great numbers. That's a lot of squeeze on stock pistons.
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