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PWM IAC and LED17 Re-wire


envmyz

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Is anyone running spark output from LED17? I'd like to free up my FIDLE and run a IAC.

 

The conversion seems simple enough

. Solder 1k resistor between the (-)leg of D17 and the right hand end of R23 (+5v). Run a length of wire from the (-) leg over to X11.

. Connect DB37 pin 25 (X11)

 

ok, so is the 1K resistor going to be the same thing I had when tapping into the vref? (like the diagram in moby's install guide) So in other words, is the right side of r23 (+5v) actually the VREF?

 

FIDLE output was a ground, right?... so does the circuit above create a ground also? Reason for asking was because I thought that I read somewhere that the spark output should be inverted.

 

Thanks for any help

 

Chris

 

MSnS-Extra21_U3

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  • 2 weeks later...

Answered my own question...lol Got the LED17 spark output running great. Recomend it to anyone that is able to solder, and wants to gain FIDLE again. Glad that I was able to free up my FIDLE, engine was idling real low (550) when i would first start it up when it was cold. After about 100F it would then idle at it's normal 750. So what I would do was unplug a vacuum line and it would then idle 1000 rpm at cold start. Let it idle, then have to plug the line agian (pain in the ***) So I got to thinking, I was able to run a 12V NC soleniod (1/4" inlet/outlet) used for fluid or inhert gas to create a fast idle valve, works great, and was only 18 bucks. The next project is to get my AC clutch wire to trigger the valve so when I turn the AC on it idles where it should.

 

**EDIT

For anyone that is going to do LED17 output on there Z, make sure you recalibrate your TPS, the resistance changes since you are no longer drawing current from the TPS VREF wire anyone...

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engine was idling real low (550) when i would first start it up when it was cold

 

I retained the original air regulator valve which does fast idle air control and only requires an ignition switched 12v so it didn't need to be hooked up to the computer. But it would be cleaner looking with a different IAC.

 

The way you did it sounds good. It does suck if you don't have some kind of IAC.

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I retained the original air regulator valve which does fast idle air control and only requires an ignition switched 12v so it didn't need to be hooked up to the computer. But it would be cleaner looking with a different IAC.

 

The way you did it sounds good. It does suck if you don't have some kind of IAC.

 

True the stock one would have worked, but I didn't feel like messing with all the old a** hoses, not to mention it's UGLY!, plus I removed the coolant lines that ran to the throttle body, so it would have required me to run new lines... blah... Once I get it wired up I'll take some pictures on how I did it.

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