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383 stroker??


Guest Crema240z

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Guest Crema240z

I was just curiouse

 

but what is the difference between a 383 and a 383 stroker...

whats the difference between a normal engine and a stroker

.???

 

pretty newby question i guess but ive just never heard or read what383 stroker means.

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Dodge made a 383 way back when but it was not a stroker.

 

When someone says they have a 383 stroker they are talking about a 350 SBC with a 400 SBC crankshaft. The stroker term means the 400 crankshaft has a longer stroke than the 350 which is why the displacement is increased. When you use the 400 crankshaft in a 350 you have to clearance the block in a few places so that the rods dont make contact with it.

 

Guy

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Any time you increase the crank stroke, you have "stroked" the engine and therefore have a "stroker." This increases the engine's displacement.

 

The "stroke" refers to the length of the crank throw... basically it refers to the distance the piston will move up and down in the bore. The typical 350 small block chevy uses roughly a 3.5'' stroke. The crank used in a 383 stroker is typically a 3.75'' stroke crank.

 

Alternatively, one can "de-stroke" an engine by putting in a crank with a shorter stroke. For example, you could put a 3.25'' stroke crank into that same small block and build a 327 cubic inch engine.

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Guest Crema240z

Now u got me interested ive been wanting to do a 327 conversion on my Z but now this 383 stroker sounds pretty cool other than just swapping the cranks what else needs to be done?

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There are many options. Crank for 383 is 3.75", then 4.030" pistons, Rods dependent on pistons. You can use short 400 rods or 5.7" or 6" etc. Do a search depending on what you want and are willing to spend determines the 'best' combination.

 

We all have different tastes and that makes the world interesting but also means no one will agree on one 383 as the best. Any 383 is a torque monster and in a Z can be qiuite effective. I had a low RPM short rod version that pulled hard to about 5600. Otherds consider it a waste to not have one pull much higher.

 

Good luck with your decisions.

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Other than swapping the crank, the main considerations in a stroker build are going to be clearance issues... i.e., you don't want the crank hitting the block or oil pan anywhere and you don't want the rods hitting the cam. To avoid these problems, you may have to do some grinding on your block and rods, or may have to buy other pieces that will give you the clearance you need.

 

Also, changing the stroke will change the piston's position in the bore... you will probably need new pistons. But pistons tend to be something you replace during any rebuild anyway.

 

Another thing is the balance of the rotating assembly. You may need a different flexplate or flywheel, and possibly even a different harmonic balancer because of the new crank. You can buy new rotating assemblies that are "internally balanced" just like a standard 350 cubic inch small block, but the majority are "externally balanced" and will require the different parts mentioned in this paragraph.

 

There are probably some other points I'm forgetting as well.

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