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Monster L28ET motor build up. to stroke or not.Tim240z get ur head out of the gutter!


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If this car is going to be running methanol and pushing 500+ hp, Why not bore the engine and then use the "engine concrete" (whatever that stuff is called) they use to fill between the cylinder walls?

I would look into all the drag racing technology availble out there. I believe you have to run methanol if you "solidfy" your block because the methanol is used to cool the engine. Of course you are limited to time the engine is running.

 

What about running a drysump or windage tray or maybe use some sord of oil piston sprayers to cool the pistons down?

 

They also have those braces used to brace the cylinder walls the thing looks like an outline of the cylinders, slots in and still has all the oil galleys and lines for flow.

 

I think of something like this and it sounds something that requires high attention to detail. Everything from the right parts to the right buildup, gaskets seals...etc.

 

Cheers

Miki K.

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this engine has to be driving alot of miles.. as ill be driving it the whole time to and from racing spots...

still confused and lost on what fuel system ill be running on this.

still cant find a damn maxima to throw this idea of a engine in either.

 

mike

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I personally would forget the Maxima. Too heavy IMHO. I'm no expert on L engines, but I do know what it takes to make 500 HP and make it look stock. Hiding nitrous on a turbo car is the easiest thing there is. From what I understand, the N42 or the turbo block should make a fine candidate for it. Starting with a L28et makes sense to me since it already has all of the items needed. Just add forged pistons and rods. Port the crap out of the head, modify the stock intake and install a bigger throttle body. And since your running the automatic, spray the daylights out of it. Hide the bottle befind the passenger seat. You'll be SOOO surprised how well the IRS will work with the automatic and drag radials. I've seen numerous V8 cars run 10.90's with very little modifications to the rear suspension. Don't get caught up in CV axles, coilovers, and the such. Just fix the OE brakes John C. style.

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Well I was wondering how would one tune for the most HP with the most "ideal" torque numbers? I know that alot a torque is good, but much torque in a slip second can cause things to break.

 

Theres a LD crank on ebay right now. I would get it but no $$$. I have to wait for my paycheck and pray that there would be another one on ebay when I have money.

 

Here LD Crank

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The member 1 fast Z has sonic tested both blocks and the N42 is more rigid and thicker. I have asked JeffP and he recommended the N42 block as well for a stroker turbo L-motor.

 

Wow! It looks like the world is coming aorund to what the Z engine builders have been saying for a while.

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To expand on my statement above...

 

When working with Jim Thompson at Sunbelt to build my monster NA engine we talked a while about heads and blocks. For an engine that is being built with no limits, head selection (between the N42 and P90) is less critical because custom pistons can be made to give whatever combustion chamber swirl is deemed necessary and the ports are going to be welded and machined to give the desired shape, flow, and velocity.

 

Block selection is more important and the most important power production item to focus on is how circular the bores remain under the clamping load of the cylinder head, heat, and load. Bores that go out of round lose ring sealing and lose power. That power loss is also uneven because some bores go out of round more then others.

 

The early N42 block has cylinder bores that stay "rounder" then the F54 block. That's a direct result of the siamesed cylinders of the F54. They expand unevenly and cause distortion even when bored and honed in a heated machine with a torque plate attached. Its not that big a difference but its enough that when I spent $20K on an engine, we went with the N42 block over a F54.

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To expand on my statement above...

 

When working with Jim Thompson at Sunbelt to build my monster NA engine we talked a while about heads and blocks. For an engine that is being built with no limits' date=' head selection (between the N42 and P90) is less critical because custom pistons can be made to give whatever combustion chamber swirl is deemed necessary and the ports are going to be welded and machined to give the desired shape, flow, and velocity.

 

Block selection is more important and the most important power production item to focus on is how circular the bores remain under the clamping load of the cylinder head, heat, and load. Bores that go out of round lose ring sealing and lose power. That power loss is also uneven because some bores go out of round more then others.

 

The early N42 block has cylinder bores that stay "rounder" then the F54 block. That's a direct result of the siamesed cylinders of the F54. They expand unevenly and cause distortion even when bored and honed in a heated machine with a torque plate attached. Its not that big a difference but its enough that when I spent $20K on an engine, we went with the N42 block over a F54.[/quote']

 

John,

 

I'd be really interested to see some evidence of this. Is this possibly related to the early F54 blocks whose siamese walls were too restrictive of coolant flow leading to a hotter #6 piston than #1?

 

Dave

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I'd be really interested to see some evidence of this.

 

I don't have any evidence. All I have is the advice given to me by the owner of Sunbelt on a "no budget limit" NA engine. He could have chosen any Nissan block and head combination. For my application and for the reasons Jim stated above, he went with the N42 block.

 

Sunbelt builds all of the Mazda, all of the Nissan, and most of the BMW engines under contract by the OEMs for SPEEDTV's World Challenge Touring cars. I'm not an engine guy so I relied on their judgement. It worked out pretty well at least for me.

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