302 build up please help

[MusPuppis]

The stock TB will work but it becomes a limiting factor when your heads and intake are flowing high. You also might not want to go with the E303. Its a nice cam - and I know emissions are a factor for some poeple, BUT, its best to tailor the cam to the application. I'll fully admit my limited knowledge when it comes to cams and whats good and what time and why.. But I know looking into one "matched" with the heads, intake and application (street, strip, cruise, track, whatever) is the best option.

 

New it breaks down something like this:

 

AFR185's - 1350$

Cam (random price since I dunno which one is actually best) - 180$

Intake - 400$ or so

TB - 180$

FRP - 80$-ish

Good filter/piping - 80$

 

Thats 2.2k - Not bad.

 

Now you have to factor in all the basic crap you need. Head gaskets, new head bolts, assorted other gaskets and tidbits, new timing chain and gears (important imo) etc etc. Other tuneup items, like oil filter, oil, plugs, probably wires, better coil - on and on. This could get into the 500$ range all said and done.

 

Add in the cost of getting the ECU tuned (No idea on cost.. 400$ maybe for a dyno tune?) and you have your basic 400hp build.

 

Looking for a number like 400 can be a little daunting. The general mods to the engine to allow for it require domino mods to make them work effectively. Bigger heads, bigger intake, bigger intake, bigger TB, bigger TB, better piping, better piping, better filter. Bigger injectors/more fuel pressure, better coil and ignition, on and on.

 

We're still leaving out suspension and brake mods. Not to mention clutch or converter to handle the power.

 

Of course, this is all just fluff really. We got off track and away from the original posters questions. 24 oz. I would really suggest jumping over to Stangnet for the info. Once upon a time I knew but its been a while since I looked into the 5.0's and Ive lng since forgot, lol.

[24 oz]

Its gonna be carbed. What would you expect my redline to be at? I kno it depends on my cam but I dont want to run too aggressive of one, its my daily driver. I only work a mile and a half away but still, its all I have to get around

[rudypoochris]

Its gonna be carbed. What would you expect my redline to be at? I kno it depends on my cam but I dont want to run too aggressive of one, its my daily driver. I only work a mile and a half away but still, its all I have to get around

 

Hope you are okay with walking for a while. Ya i am going carb also, using a 600 cfm which from what i read is a little too much for a stock 5.0 (they reccomend around 500 cfm to keep TQ up), but that leaves room to grow for me. I am going dual plane also with short runners for better cold starts and more instant response, at the expense of high end power, but thats fine b/c stock 302 doesn't make much power past 5 maybe 5.5 even though it redlines at what??? 5.8k i think?

 

To find the redline why don't you look it up on summit or fordracings website, i know it says it somewhere on both those sites b/c i have seen it there. I thinkt he e-303 is the lower rpm one maybe 6k to 6.25k i think the x maybe hits 6.5k i totally can't remember though, so don't take it too seriously. I still don't get why you would spend 2.2k in an 88 motor when you can get a new 300hp block for about $2000 with GT40 heads, ARP bolts, chrome moly rings, and an x, e, or b cam... Also you could simply opt for the AFR or twisted wedge heads you want, and be at that 400hp for probably about $3000. Saves alot of down time as well, plus there will still be plenty of swap work left. If that is not enough do it yourself for you, then ya stick to the 88 block. I am not a guy who likes to simply pay for everything and not work, but I am also not the kind of guy who likes to do work that takes alot of time and turns out an inferior product for almost the same cost.

[24 oz]

My parents are cool when it doesnt run I can drive one of there cars. I have a 77 302 in it right now and an extra 88 302 out of a stang which has low miles and is in good shape, ive already taken it somewhat apart and everything looks great.

[Guest buldozr]

about the buildup of the ford 5.0ho, go with afr 165 if you are gonna be streeting it, go 185's if you will be stroking in the near future or is a drag only car, no bigger than the 185's though on the street, gt40p's are great low end torque heads, on a stock 5.0ho, compression will be bumped up to about 10 to 10.5 to 1 depending on what headgasket you use. I am running a 5.0HO with the gt40p's, slightly(and i do mean slightly) ported, oringed for the lockwire headgaskets, 1.6 RR, shortie headers, stock roller cam, edel rpm manifold, edel 600 carb, MSD distributor, the list goes on... With this setup, low end torque is absolutely crazy, and for the 2 grand total investment, this motor is well worth it. But if you do decide to do gt40p's, be gentle on the port, I cant stress this enough, any porting should only be cleaning up the castings in the ports, possibly a little bit of bowl cleaning but in the combustion chamber you should definately make clearance around the valves. My two cents, sorry for the long reply.

buldozr

[Guest buldozr]

ohh yeah, I havnt yet dynod the motor, but desktop dyno says 350hp with open exhaust with peak hp at 6k rpm and 350lb/ft at 4000 rpm with the stock cam in it. The stock cam on the HO's are pretty nice, definately if you add 1.7RRs on it. The other cams fms offers are nice but you cant beat a custom grind definately when you know if you are running a carb and not having to worry about a computer happy cam. Anyways, good luck and have FUN!

[rudypoochris]

Sounds good. Ya i dont think the 205's would be streetable, but I would run them on the street (I am used to engines being peaky). I acctually enjoy having no low end and an ultra light flywheel (i learned on an FWD fiat marea 5 speed 4 cylinder that has NO power below 3), but this is a v8 build so stick with 185 MAX. Also, watch out for what carb you use... don't go 800cfm on a stock build or anything crazy like that. Make sure all the parts match, there is no sense in running a stock cam on 205's, just like it doesn't make sense to run a stock block on dual 650 cfm's. It will be worse. Make sure you keep the scavenging up if you want that torque...

[24 oz]

Well I think I am just gonna go with the 320 horse long block from central coast mustang its a good price and has a 2 year warrenty and in the long run will probably be cheaper. I am not exactly sure on the carb size but I think its a 600cfm and ive been told not to go over that on a 302.

[rudypoochris]

Well I think I am just gonna go with the 320 horse long block from central coast mustang its a good price and has a 2 year warrenty and in the long run will probably be cheaper. I am not exactly sure on the carb size but I think its a 600cfm and ive been told not to go over that on a 302.

 

It is fine to go over 600cfm as long as your cam profile, heads, intake, etc match. 600cfm should be just about perfect for that block. I have been drooling over the 320 horse also, but decided I would probably go for the 300hp block for $400 less. For now I am sticking to this 225 horse motor, we shall see.