David K Posted December 2, 2005 Share Posted December 2, 2005 Im going to pick up an 89 5.0 as soon as my friends new WRX is delivered to him. Ill be removing the engine and trans in Vegas sometime in the next 1-2 months. The 302 should be in my silver zx within 3-4 months. The swap is going to be a quick, dirty job so i will be able to get it back home to SoCal, and then start the cosemetic work. When i get it back complete with the 302, how many of you are interested in me making up some engine and trans mount kits w/hardware for a direct bolt in sbf swap for 79-83 zx's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cleton-z Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 hey i would be interested here is my email address and # give me a buzz and send pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest levelhead86 Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 I'm doing a swap that would be exactly what you're describing, so I would most definately be interested... even if you have to jsut do it in smaller parts, like just motor mounts/crossmember, and then the transmission stuff later, or vise versa. It's good to know somebody else out there is still working ZX swapping... I see a lot of people out there who are totally prejudice against anything post early-Z body, and I think they're definately missing out. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David K Posted January 9, 2006 Author Share Posted January 9, 2006 The 89 5.0 is ready for me to pick up. My buddy just picked up his new WRX last night. I have to get some things moved around and some things settled then i will be going up to Simi Valley and picking up the Mustang. Thats all i can say for now, its major progress. Ive been waiting for him to get his new car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest elvis650 Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 i have an 81280zx that i am considering doing an engine swap. which seems to be the easiest engine tranny, combo that works. i am not looking to race. i would rather put money into replacing the engine than putting money into the stock motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bschiltz Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 I'd be very interisted in a conversion kit for a 302. I have a 79 280zx that's going to be my daily driver, so a 5.0 won't break the bank on gas money! Thanks Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bschiltz Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 I've talked to some of my friends and even if you just have diagrams of the mounts, etc. I could get them fabricated. Thanks again. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s3079893 Posted February 13, 2006 Share Posted February 13, 2006 Hi bschiltz I am right now at the stage of building engine mounts fr a 280zx 5.0L swap. Engineering or decent drawings are going to be hard to do as there are weird angles assosiated with the mounts (especially if you plan on building the mounts off the drawings). I did some "basic" cad drawings with aproximate dimensions. a stress test showed these mounts could handle 5000N each (about 500kg), so should be sufficient. your best bet is to probably posistion the engine where you want it then build the mounts in accorance by tac welding etc. i hope this helps you visulise a way of doing the mounts (they are actually quite similar to another set of mounts i saw in a forum here) . Good luck mate cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s3079893 Posted February 13, 2006 Share Posted February 13, 2006 Oh crap!, go here to see the picture. http://photobucket.com/albums/d34/s3079893/?sc=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bschiltz Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 s3079893: Thank you so much! That helps a ton! How much of an issue is the clearence with the crossmember? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s3079893 Posted February 15, 2006 Share Posted February 15, 2006 This places the engine as far back and as low as possible. The oil pump looks like it will clear the cross member by about 1 cm, but hydrolic steering pump line will have to be moved and custom sump has to be fabricated. Also a oil pump relocation kit will be needed. These issues can also be resoved by moving the engine forward and using a fox bodied sump, but will be at the expense of handleing response. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bschiltz Posted February 15, 2006 Share Posted February 15, 2006 Like I said, this is going to be my daily driver so I can deal with the engine being a little farther forward. When mounted forward, how much of a difference is there in the shifter placement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s3079893 Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 Im using the tr3650 tranny and where i'm mounting the engine ive had to cut abit of the tunnel away, the stick is about 10-15cm further back than stock. if you mounted the engine further forward you could probably use the stock tranny mounting points (i've had to cut mine off). Remember when poisioning the gearbox/motor to consider drive shaft orientation, a general rule of thumb is the drive shaft shouldn't be more than a total of 6 degs and the angles between the shaft and the connecting hookes joints shouldn't be more than 1.5 deg different. This will keep vibration to a minimum. and keep in mind the diff (in my case) is located about 1/2 inch to the right (My drivers seat is on the right side too.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twoeightnine Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 Hey Are the frame rail dimensions radically different compared to the first gen 280Zs? I ask because if they are the same or close, could one not use the Alsil designed,and available. engine cross member? Jtr tranny mount kit? JTR radiator kit. Tweak and burn? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s3079893 Posted February 17, 2006 Share Posted February 17, 2006 I know that there is quite a difference b/w the 240z and 280zx cross member position. there is far less room behind it on the 280zx compared to 240z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s3079893 Posted February 17, 2006 Share Posted February 17, 2006 I just went to see if it would fit, and even if the rails were the same distqance apart as the 240, the member would foul on the steering rack and the steering shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bschiltz Posted February 17, 2006 Share Posted February 17, 2006 Im using the tr3650 tranny and where i'm mounting the engine ive had to cut abit of the tunnel away, the stick is about 10-15cm further back than stock. if you mounted the engine further forward you could probably use the stock tranny mounting points (i've had to cut mine off). Remember when poisioning the gearbox/motor to consider drive shaft orientation, a general rule of thumb is the drive shaft shouldn't be more than a total of 6 degs and the angles between the shaft and the connecting hookes joints shouldn't be more than 1.5 deg different. This will keep vibration to a minimum. and keep in mind the diff (in my case) is located about 1/2 inch to the right (My drivers seat is on the right side too.) I thought I read that the stick came out farther back, thanks. As far as mounting the engine out/up, how can you keep the angles little to none? Will using the fox body(?) sump help, allowing the engine to be lower? Thanks yet again Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s3079893 Posted February 17, 2006 Share Posted February 17, 2006 The fox body sump has a dip in the middle of it, this should mean if you coordinate the dip with the cross member you should be able to mount the engine at a good height. The total angle of the drive shaft is not nearly as important as keeping the angles through the hookes joints the same. do this right and you will elimnate the vibration through the drive train. if you mount the engine about half way over the cross member (where the sump dip is) your gearstick will be in a close to stock postion (assuming your tanny is similar to mine). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest levelhead86 Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 s3079893 ; what kind of incentive *$$$* could convince you to start selling those motor mounts to us all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s3079893 Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 **** mate it's not that im to much of a tight *** to make them for a couple of people, it's just that I dont have anytime since the semester started. I'm happy to give any information about anything, and when i get round to it i'll post some pictures of the completed mounts inlucing the trany mount. The mounts aren't very hard to make mabey i should supply u guys with some of drawing of the important diemsions. At the moment im lucky to get an hour of work a week done on the datto so you will have to be patient for me to get round to doing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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