mustache bar

[JessZ]

I am chasing down the clunk in my 240. The bushings in my mustache cross member need replacing, but this I guy I met told me to use one off a 260 or 280z. He said it was a simple bolt on swap and the angles of the later bar are easier on my U-joints. Any thoughts? There are two 260z's and one 280z at the salvage yard here in town, and the price for the new-used part is $25.

[JMortensen]

What year is your Z again?

 

The early ones, 70 and I think the first 1/2 of 71, had the diff positioned about an inch forward of the later ones. This led to halfshaft U joint vibration and failure so they changed the position later when they recognized the problem.

 

If your halfshafts are further forward on the inboard end than the outboard end, you could stand to make this change, especially if you're going to put a lot of power down. I did this on my car but it's been so long I forgot all what was necessary. I think you can just change the mustache bar, but I changed the link behind the diff too. If you use the straight link that came on the early cars then it is difficult to access the drain plug. If you use the later curved link that came in the 72-78 cars then there is more clearance.

 

I want to say that the front diff mount might have been different too, or maybe you switched it around 180º, I can't remember exactly. Been too long...

[steve72z]

I have a 72 240, I had the same problem with the clunk. I thought the movement of the Diff was the problem so I installed a solid mount. This did not solve the problem. I talked to my Z mentor who has since past away, He told me to tighten the two nuts that go thru the Mustache Bar. I had done this previously but obviously did not tighten them enough. When I tightened them again the clunk went away.

 

Just thought I would share my experience, may or may not help you, Good Luck.

[JessZ]

Thanks Jon you always have my back. I'm pretty sure my Z is a series II, so it sounds like the angles are probably okay. I'm not planning on much power, so I will first try cranking down those bolts that Steve suggested. If that does not work then it's back to the SEARCH botton. Thanks Gents... BTW Jon, I have not gone out to Morro Bay yet. I was going to go to have my valves ajusted, but they're really fine right now and not hard to ajust anyway. The problem that was getting on my nerves was more about the little hole in my exhaust beneath the driver-side floor pan. I had that fixed at a place of Tank Farm, and the car sounds great again.