cheap boost controllers... looking for some comparison info

[Guest bastaad525]

hey all. Well I was just wondering some things. Been using a grainger ball-and-spring MBC for some time... it works okay, I guess. But I've been wondering lately... I've never actually used a bleed style MBC, and was just wondering, how does a bleed behave compared to either a) no boost controller (just stock wastegate actuator hooked up stock) and to the ball and spring type controller.

 

One thing I dont like about the grainger is that it spikes quite a bit, and also that little bleed hole on it seems to get clogged pretty easily causing poor turbo response.

 

So I was thinking of taking the grainger out, just running a line straight from the intake manifold to the wastegate actuator, but putting a small plastic connector between them, and tapping a small hole into it, enlarging it bit by big between runs until I get my desired boost level.

 

But before I even bother, I thought I'd ask on here, anyone tried something like this before? How did it behave? How much spike? And did boost fall off towards redline? Any pros or cons you guys can think of?

 

i'm thinking of doing this or sticking a spring and turnbuckle onto the WGA arm... I actually have a spring and turnbuckle but it ended up being too long... I just need to get to Auto Zone to pick up some shorter springs.

 

Whichever way I do it, I really think I want to get rid of this grainger MBC, the spiking is annoying and is limiting my overall boost. I'm not gonna spring for an electronic boost controller (trying to sell the car), so I need to find a better cheap alternative.

[EZ-E]

I use a Hallman type boost controller, it is a ball and spring and works fairly well.

 

I hade it set to 15 psi with the stock turbo and it worked fine and without any problems. Sometimes it would spike to 16 but not more and it would hold pefectly to 6k.

 

Ive never had any problems with it at all, but not replaces a good electronic boost controller, but then again Im sure you already know that.

[Guest bastaad525]

I've tried various things with my grainger valve includling changing the spring and the location of the valve itself (put it as close to the WGA as possible) and I'm still getting 2psi spike... annoying. I'm trying it out now with a combination setup... I'm still running the Grainger but I turned the spring pressure down, and installed a small bleed hole inbetween the grainger and the WGA, and tapped the hole larger and larger until I got the boost I wanted. It does seem to be spiking a bit less and also seems to be more stable boost overall. I need to do some more testing, take it up on the freeway and do some 4th and 5th gear pulls and see what it does.

[big-phil]

I ment to cut and rethread my wastegate rod but put an "S" bend in it instead untill I got what I wanted, but It seems to only go to about 9-10 psi in 1st-3rd gear, and then in 4th-5th it will go upto 14psi. Are all turbos like this? can I get just 14psi in any gear? This is the first turbo I've ever had, or drivin.

[EZ-E]

Funny you mention about the bleed hole as with the Hallman valve it has one made into the set up itself.

[zguy36]

The difference between using a ball and spring type controller and a bleed valve is boost response. The ball and spring completely cuts off pressure to the wastegate actuator until the ball lifts from its seat allowing pressure to the actuator. The bleed type just vents the pressure from the actuator but doesnt' completely restrict it, so it is always seeing pressure and will start to open the wastegate sooner than the ball and spring type. Now keep in mind, this is all theory. I have run both types and couldn't really see any difference between the two. The bleed valve does work well, it is just a pain to adjust. I used electrical butt connectors (they come in different sizes) as different orifice sizes. To get an in between size, just crimp it down smaller. I am currently running a homemade ball and spring type and have had very little trouble with it. It is just made from brass fitting from home depot and a spring that I found laying around. No boost spike and very consistent boost.

[Guest bastaad525]

I ment to cut and rethread my wastegate rod but put an "S" bend in it instead untill I got what I wanted, but It seems to only go to about 9-10 psi in 1st-3rd gear, and then in 4th-5th it will go upto 14psi. Are all turbos like this? can I get just 14psi in any gear? This is the first turbo I've ever had, or drivin.

 

 

well, with manual boost controllers or even on the stock WGA by itself or modded, it is pretty typical to get more boost in higher gears. In my 240, I get 11-12 in 1st and 2nd, 13ish in 3rd, 14 in 4th and 5th.

 

I didn't notice any change in boost response after adding the bleed hole and turning the ball and spring valve pressure down. But yeah I'd read about how the ball and spring valves are SUPPOSED to give a faster spool time, but on the flip side of that, doesn't it stand to reason that because of the way they function they should also cause more of a spike than a bleed?

[zguy36]

I don't get any boost spike or changes with gears. Just a constant steady 15psi with my homemade ball and spring controller. If you don't like your granger, make a bleed valve for $5. You won't have noticible changes in spool time and you can get rid of the problems you are having with your existing valve. I wouldn't recommend making changes to your wastegate, but just changing your controller instead.