Corzette Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 You guys need to stop it...your making me homesick! ZFAN and DOC please beam me up, Im tired of this place.... PS. I just picked up a GNOSE..... Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lvcien Posted January 31, 2006 Author Share Posted January 31, 2006 I'd prefer not to go too overboard with a 400 CI+ block, - keep it smaller and lighter. So far this is what I've gathered: Block: 350 (what's the block code/number -- similar to N42/F54 for the L engines) Crankshaft: 3.75" Rods: 6" All of these parts seem to be cheaper and more readily avalible than the similar parts for the L series. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lvcien Posted January 31, 2006 Author Share Posted January 31, 2006 e-mail sent to John at jnjdragracing.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BowtieS30 Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 I'd prefer not to go too overboard with a 400 CI+ block' date=' - keep it smaller and lighter. So far this is what I've gathered: Block: 350 (what's the block code/number -- similar to N42/F54 for the L engines) Crankshaft: 3.75" Rods: 6" All of these parts seem to be cheaper and more readily avalible than the similar parts for the L series. Chevys dont really have block codes, they have serial numbers, the 350 came out in 1968, and the very early seventies 350 blocks are the desirable high nickel content blocks try not to get ahead of yourself with the build, just get it on the road first. the 700r4 came out in the mid seventies, but the first gen 700r4 had some problems, secound gen came out in the mid eightys, but for a performance application I strongly recomend going with an aftermarket unit, check out bowtieoverdrive.com, or TCI or B&M the reason that chevy small blocks are cheaper is because the have been making them since 1955, to say they are common is an understatment. good luck PS there is a book you really should buy and memorize, its called "How to hotrod small-block chevys" put that on your book list along with the JTR manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lvcien Posted February 1, 2006 Author Share Posted February 1, 2006 is this the B&M tranny I'm looking for? if so, which model number? http://www.bmracing.com/index.php?id=products&sid=4&cat=4&subcat=16&pid=33 and bowtieoverdrive.com doesn't seem to be a real site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lvcien Posted February 1, 2006 Author Share Posted February 1, 2006 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-Small-Block-350-TBI_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQitemZ8033909135QQrdZ1 does that sound like a good starting setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 Block code, how about a 4 bolt main early model 350. I believe the number to look for is 3970010. This is a high nickel 4 bolt main block that has plenty of meat in the cylinder walls. Some people call them 010 or 020 blocks for short. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMACH671 Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 010/020 Chevy blocks are becomming very hard to find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-Small-Block-350-TBI_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQitemZ8033909135QQrdZ1 does that sound like a good starting setup? TBI motors arent the best for high HP. Your better off with a MPI(multi port injection) or carb. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lvcien Posted February 1, 2006 Author Share Posted February 1, 2006 so carbed it is or maybe that 412ci block from jnjdragracing:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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