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Rear end setup


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Guest Anonymous

I see that some members have their cars tubbed, I'm considering tubbing, narrowing a rear end, and running large rear tires around 10 to 14 inches wide. I once considered going with cv axles, 300lsd, coilovers setup,adjustable shocks, that setup is not cheap. I think the money would better spent on a 12bolt or 9 in rearend shorten. I have been advised to stay away from ladder bars. I'm curious to ask Mike or Ron how big of a project is it narrowing a rear end and tubbing the car, what resources did they use, such as chassis supplier. I thinking about cutting out the whole rear floor pan and spare tire compartment. I want place a narrow four link setup from chassisworks, rearend (good question), use a floorpan and tubbs from them. what's the cost factor in all this. Jack

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Guest RON JONES

My car was already done when I got it.Mike and Brad did the work on there cars.They should beable to tell you whats involved.I can tell you Its quite abit of work.As far as 12bolt or 9",I prefer the 9".Theres nothing wrong with the 12bolt.See what you can get a better deal on.If your going drag raceing w/slicks and big horsepower,I would sugjest a 9" with aftermarket internals.Checkout brads website,he has alot of pics of his car that could give you an idea of the work involved.You can find it in the I,M TELLING YA board,under ANY RATS OUT THERE.

 

[This message has been edited by RON JONES (edited March 11, 2000).]

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Michael, It is a lot of work!!I cut out the floor, dumped the spare tire tub, and cut out the old frame. I cut the wheel wells in half and added about 4 inches of metal and welded some metal where the strut tower was and made my own wheel tubs. I used a 12 bolt with 3.73 posi and disc brakes. I used Jeg's Street/Strip suspension set up ( check Jeg's catalog for discription) and coil overs. I made the frames out of 2 X 3 rectangular tubing. The cost? about $1600 for the rear w/discs, and about $650 for the suspension. The cost of the tubing was cheap, maybe $50

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Anonymous

Hey Mike

what is the size of your tire and rim combination on your z, what is the narrowed length of your rearend. Are you running a spool, locker, or posi unit, who respline the axles for you, are you using c-clip eliminator. whats the pinion angle on the rearend setup. what does your final drive comes out to with your gears,tires, tranny? I would love some pic of your setup.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike kZ:

Michael, It is a lot of work!!I cut out the floor, dumped the spare tire tub, and cut out the old frame. I cut the wheel wells in half and added about 4 inches of metal and welded some metal where the strut tower was and made my own wheel tubs. I used a 12 bolt with 3.73 posi and disc brakes. I used Jeg's Street/Strip suspension set up ( check Jeg's catalog for discription) and coil overs. I made the frames out of 2 X 3 rectangular tubing. The cost? about $1600 for the rear w/discs, and about $650 for the suspension. The cost of the tubing was cheap, maybe $50

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Folks,

 

I just wanted to interject a question about suspension design into the discussion.

 

The 4-link has various advantages for drag racing purposes; specifically, the ability to tune for anti-squat, while managing wheel hop, etc. Yet, the 4-link is generally regarded as inferior for road-type applications - even inferior to the Satchell link arrangement (two longitudinal links, two links angled toward the center of the car) or the NASCAR-style trailing link arrangement, because of poor roll compliance. That's actually a plus for drag racing, but evidently a minus for road racing.

 

My question is not about solid rear axle vs. IRS, but regarding the various ways to locating the solid rear axle. Does anyone who races both SCCA and NHRA have any comments on pros and cons of 4-links? Recognizing that specializing for one form of racing almost necessarily reduces performance in other forms, I was wondering what's the best compromise.

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Hey Michael Jackson

I'm using 295-50-15 tires on 15X10 rims. I think the total length from disc to disc was 45 inches. I'm using a posi, the axles are from Moser, and I'm not using C clip eliminators, because it's a light car and if an LS6 Chevelle can use a 12 bolt with C clips and not break them I should be OK.My pinion angle I think is 2 degrees down right now, but this is adjustable. My final drive ratio with my T56 is 1.87. On members rides there is a pic of the rear end.

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Guest Anonymous

Is it necessary to tub with 295mm tires? My plans are to go with 315mm 35 series in the rear but I was going to put on fender flares instead since this seems easier. My logic could be off though and any thoughts on putting a 315mm tire inside an untubbed well would be appriciated. By the way...if flares are added they will be custom pieces that will attach high enough to the entire well lip can be cut back as far as the inner fender liner.

 

SpencZ

MonsterZ Cont.

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Guest Anonymous

HEY THANKS MIKE KZ

quote:

Originally posted by Mike kZ:

Hey Michael Jackson

I'm using 295-50-15 tires on 15X10 rims. I think the total length from disc to disc was 45 inches. I'm using a posi, the axles are from Moser, and I'm not using C clip eliminators, because it's a light car and if an LS6 Chevelle can use a 12 bolt with C clips and not break them I should be OK.My pinion angle I think is 2 degrees down right now, but this is adjustable. My final drive ratio with my T56 is 1.87. On members rides there is a pic of the rear end.

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