Jump to content
HybridZ

Michael

Members
  • Content Count

    794
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5
  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by Michael

  1. Just saw this thread. The original poster's wheels are 14x6, correct? Here is a photo of 14x7 "Western Turbine" wheels. They fit a stock -suspension 280Z, with about 3/4" gap between the outermost portion of the spring perch, and the innermost extent of the wheel lip or rubber. For the eagle-eyed, these are Pete Paraska's wheels, from >20 years ago... and yes, the "original" tires. My plan is to replace the tires with Toyo Proxes R888, 225/50R14. These look to be the last "meaty" tires available in 14" diameter, which are even remotely suitable for the occasional sparing jaunt down th
  2. Yes, I remember that Rota buy; it was quite the extravaganza. But weren't those wheels a bit on the... heavy side? That at least was my sentiment at the time. So I searched for alternatives... Konig, CCW, Enkei, XXR, and a dozen others. None had the magic combination of backspacing (or offset), bolt circle diameter, hub diameter and width. Weld wheels shows an example for a 280Z, here: https://www.weldwheels.com/gallery/fire-orange-1972-datsun-240z-weld-s77-forged-wheels/ . But if we look closely, we see 5 lugs. Perhaps, at $800/wheel, they'd be willing to drill for 4 lugs?
  3. Primaz, you're quite right about the relative abundance of 16" tire choices, over 15". This seems to be becoming even more of an issue with each successive passing year. Recently I sold some parts to a fellow who appeared in a Honda minivan... the usual trappings of family-life in the back...strollers, toys, grocery bags filled with various stuff. But the minivan was sporting 19" wheels, with 245-50 tires! They actually looked like Panasports... only giant-ones. Thus about tires. But what of wheels? Spending some idle hours in the wilds of the internet, looking at wheels in 1
  4. Bumping this thread, first to inquire as to whether the original poster has made a purchase and has results to report, and second to note that the link that I posted in March, now seems to be dead. That is, 15" tire choices have dwindled even further. The largest (widest) for my purposes, that is currently available, seems to be this one: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?gclid=CjwKCAjwmeiIBhA6EiwA-uaeFZorYZPfqBgMhIOxDF64xOmrK1xyQKiFDPcbf6Bu1BaWu53B4_p7zRoCt94QAvD_BwE&tireMake=Toyo&tireModel=Proxes+R888R&partnum=35WR5R888R&GCID=C13674x012-tire&KEYWORD=tires.jsp_Toy
  5. According to this site: https://www.wheeltech360.com/ROTA-Wheel-Kyusha-15x8-4x11430mm-73mm-Hub_p_136.html , the Rota Kyusha 15x8 in 4x114.3 weigh 16.6 pounds. Not outrageous, but a bit on the heavy-side. A search for 15x8 wheels in suitable offset (+0; or was that -0? I'm so confused!!!) shows that many weigh around 16 pounds. Some months (years?) ago, I had a thread on Vors wheels (https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/132345-vors-wheels-specifically-tr3-opinions/), which were 2-3 pounds lighter. Next question is tires. As expected, choices in 15" are... limited. There
  6. While of course I can't speak for Fusion (or others), the rationale behind 5-lugs is that it allows for use of the standard drag-racing wheel choices, especially in 15" diameter. If easier/cheaper alternatives are forthcoming, then of course it would be silly to insist on an upgrade merely for upgrade's sake! But in my experience - broad, but shallow and unsophisticated - to find decently light/strong wheels in 15x8 in 4x114.3 has been problematic, to put it mildly. Noll - your photos are intriguing indeed. What wheels to you use, and where did you find them? What size are they
  7. The big challenge is not in making one or another individual choice, of this brake-kit or that, but in having the entire combination work as a system... brakes, wheel/tires, suspension and drivetrain. Larger brake rotors mean larger wheels, which often means conversion to 5-lug and/or the coilover mod to accept larger backspacing. 5-lugs means, in the rear, new stub axles, and that likely leads to new half-shafts and so on. The project snowballs. There is no obvious way to change one set of components, leaving the rest alone, without glaringly deleterious effects, like the rear
  8. Remove the valve covers and inspect the rockers and pushrods. The latest malady sounds like what happens with a "wiped" flat tappet cam and bent pushrods. Also manually turn the crank-bolt and check that the valves are opening correctly (that whole 18436572 firing-order thing). Re-do the "quarter turn trick" if it's a hydraulic cam, and re-set the lash if it's a mechanical cam. It's conceivable that the distributor was installed 180 degrees backwards, so to speak. That is, spark hits the #1 piston as it's coming up on the... exhaust stroke, instead of the intake stroke.
  9. Turn everything off, put transmission in neutral and spin the crank (via crank pulley bolt) with the appropriate socket wrench (7/8", if memory serves) and either a breaker-bar or a section of pipe engaged with the wrench handle. Spin the crank for a full revolution. It is possible that the crank is seized, whence the starter can't muster enough torque to break the seizing. If the crank is indeed seized, that's problem #1. If it spins OK by hand, then we'll return to the starter problem. A vigorous person should have no difficulty turning the crank with the spark plugs installe
  10. Welcome! Several of us are in the LA area. Perhaps we should have an in-person meet, 'rona-permitting? If you car doesn't presently run, and you're unsure of re-start procedures, it may help to post in the "general troubleshooting" sub-forum. The usual culprits are of course fuel-air-spark, assuming that the valvetrain and so forth are healthy, and that the compression is OK. 4L80 is an unusual choice, to go behind a small-block. Was the original intended for drag racing?
  11. To affix aluminum plates to the transmission tunnel, as a completely new feat for me. Isn't the more common approach a "blowproof" bellhousing? Something like this: https://www.holley.com/brands/lakewood/products/drivetrain/bellhousings/ . These are unfortunately very heavy (maybe 40 lbs), but aren't they required by the NHRA?
  12. Welcome back! Yes, it's been a long and choppy 21+ years. Perhaps we ought to have an "old member" section, for reminiscences and such? I will bring my hot-water bottle and wool blanket. An important lesson is regarding having the right environment. Insufficient garage space, or too rigid of a state regulatory burden, all conspire to sap motivation. Or in some parts of the country, where land is plentiful and regulations are forgiving, the climate is brutal, and for half of the year it's unpleasant to drive a sports car, or even to be in the garage. The result? We have to awa
  13. Have a look at the "suspension" chapter of the venerable JTR V8 conversion manual, where there's a discussion on re-drilling the K-member to move the LCA outboard (and slightly upward). There's also been discussion suggesting (sorry, the context escapes me) the benefits of a "slightly" wider track in the front than in the rear. As to the 5x114.3 vs. 4x114.3 dilemma, both aesthetics and wheel selection-options suggest the benefits of swapping to 5-lug in the front, if that's already been done in the rear. Given the cost of the Ray's wheels, the additional cost of new 5-lug hubs (a
  14. Having spent 20+ years trying to do it myself, I realized that my skills are woefully inadequate. I've also garnered a respect for professional workmanship, even if it's costly. The frustration is that most pros are into the show-circuit... $20K paint jobs and that sort of thing. I've also learned to never argue with a seasoned pro... that's one context in which it is assuredly not the case, that "The customer is always right". But you're quite right about the importance of patience. Today Datsuns are expensive. In another 20 years, the generation that idolized them in their y
  15. Not to range too far of topic, but that's a 150-pound block. I chose those attributes intentionally, to result in surprisingly light engine. It's the sort of thing that powers the winners of the Hot Rod Drag Week contests... things like 1962 Novas that weigh 2100 pounds. But the big-block people or the Nova people won't countenance one of that them thar Datsuns... and vice versa. Just like it was, 21 years ago, when this site first started. The point is, that great things are possible by dispensing with OEM stuff and replacing it with high-end, specialized parts, tested and ins
  16. Not to be provocative, but I wonder how much of the price-escalation is from a cultural affinity to "keeping it Japanese" or "all Nissan"? In other words, if the engine were a Donovan aluminum big-block 572, with AFR heads and a big mechanical roller cam, backed by a T-56 transmission and a Ford 9" center-section (duly converted to independent half-shafts), then might we find ourselves with a car that cost $100K to build, but only fetches $40K at auction?
  17. Plausible and intriguing, but would the bending stresses (cantilevered load) be acceptable? Miata 15x8 wheels are typically around 36mm offset, whereas a Z, if I'm not mistaken, would be 0 offset (4.5" backspacing on an 8" wheel... that is, 9" lip-to-lip, is 0 offset). So that's a 36mm-thick cylindrical slab of aluminum, drilled 4x114.3 and counterbored to accept lug nuts and the head of a socket-wrench (what is it, 21 mm?) ... and then drilled and studded at 4x100, to accept the Miata wheel. 1" adaptors: https://usadapters.com/collections/4x114-3-4x4-5-wheel-adapters-
  18. If you've done the 5-lug conversion, the world is your proverbial oyster (at least as regards wheels). There appear to be lots of OZ wheels in 5x114.3. It's us poor 4-lug schlubs who lack options. Were I to have done the 5-lug conversion, I'd just order some Weld Draglites (https://www.weldwheels.com/street-strip-wheels/draglite.html) in a custom offset. Problem solved. Maybe this is classic paralysis-by-analysis, but here's the problem: 1. Car has been sitting for decades, and tires are completely unsafe, even for pulling out of the driveway. 2. Cho
  19. There is of course the adage of getting that for which one pays. I don't expect forged wheels for cast-wheel prices. The quandary however is that even among comparably built and comparably designed wheels, there's wide range in weight and price. One would like to get "the best" within a certain class of product, realizing that "best" will differ between the different classes... or applications. Another example is Konig wheels. Several appeal to me, in price, design and even weight. But good luck getting a 4x114.3 pattern with the right offset for a Z. Another example is 6UL (
  20. This is precisely why a crowd-sourcing approach of gathering data - even anecdotal data - is so important. Until brands build a reliable track-record, we can only rely on word-of-mouth. By way of example, I bought a "Central Machinery" drill press from Harbor Freight Tools, about 20 years ago. It still works great! Best $150 that I ever spent on a tool. But the purchase was blind... no knowledge, not even anecdotal data. I dislike Rota for two reasons. First, they're heavily advertised, which to me suggests more sizzle than steak. Second, they tend to be
  21. It occurred to me, that after thirteen and a half years, a reply might be judicious. Or at least amusing.... The vendor is/was called "Cam Motion", from their "low lash mechanical roller" line. A modern internet search reveals this: https://cammotion.com/low-lash-solid-roller ... but that's for LS-series engines, and not for Mark-IV big blocks. I can't find anything about big-blocks on their current web site. Back in the day (winter of 2006-2007), the part number was L2402-2501-12+4. That's 239/249 deg @0.050”. Lift is 0.642”/0.646”, 112 LSA, installed +4 deg. Sp
  22. Any updates on this? Those Jongbloeds are beautiful wheels, but what of cost, weight - and most importantly. fitment? A quick search reveals that just over the past year, we've had multiple threads on "Help, all of the Datsun wheel links are now 10+ years old, and there's no comprehensive spreadsheet anyway". Then there's the inevitable question of stock springs (cut or otherwise... assumption is that the spring perch is NOT relocated) vs. coilovers. The result is inevitably... inconclusive.
  23. Thanks for the kind words, fellows! The Z completed its transcontinental journey on a trailer behind a Penske box-van, and is now "safe" in the general locale where it started its American life... California. Pro tip: towing is exhausting... tough on both tow-vehicle and driver. Our box-van was lucky to get 10 mpg, especially on hilly terrain (Missouri Ozarks, Arizona mountains). En route, the Z received smattering of compliments at gas stations, truck stops, hotel parking lots,... Here's a photo from the rear, in the car's current resting-place. License plate is go
  24. Search for country of origin has for me also thus far been unsuccessful. I'm not utterly thrilled with the styling, but the wheels are remarkably light-weight. They have the correct bolt-pattern and offset. The closest competitor is Rota, but the comparable Rotas are 3-4 pounds heavier. The reason for my sudden ebullience is that I'd like to get my perma-project out of hibernation. The current tires on there are about 30 years old. Yes, 30! The current wheels are the 14x7 "Western Turbine"... heavy, and offering limited tire choice. 15x8 offers several tire option
  25. Surprisingly, there don't appear to be any threads on these wheels. Manufacturer link: https://www.vorswheels.com/collections/tr3/products/tr3 . These are 15x8, 0 offset, and appear (by my reckoning) to fit a stock-suspension 280Z. Weight is evidently 13.5 lb (see https://www.vorswheels.com/pages/vors-wheel-weight), which looks to be decently light. Any opinions? I am surprised that I've never seen mention of these either on our Forum, or really in any Z-type of venue. Am I missing something obvious (failed design, improper fit, bad reputation....)?
×
×
  • Create New...